1/350 USS Bennington (CV-20)

[taskforce48]

Looking good so far! I wish I could get that kind of time available to build.

Looking forward to more!
Matt

[Rdutnell]

Looking good so far! I wish I could get that kind of time available to build.

Looking forward to more!
Matt

Thanks Matt!
As far as time goes, I had to make the time. I've been so busy I felt like I was going to lose my mind, only modeling a few hours on weekends, if that. I finished a big report and made myself take the time off. Once I got the idea in my head it was easy to let go and focus on my model. YEEEAHH!!

[Rdutnell]

Happy Birthday to me! And what better way to spend it than modeling?

Since the last update, I actually did get started on the guns. I completed the 5 inchers, the 40mm�s and half of the 20 mm�s. I�ll show them in a later update, after I finish them all. In the mean time, back to the stern mount.

So, this afternoon, I take the putty block off of the stern. It looked pretty good, as can be seen in the next 2 pictures, so I couldn�t have been happier. Even though the saran wrap left grooves, the form of the hull was clearly created. Even the underside of the gun mount was clearly defined.

I noticed when I removed the putty block, that the plastic on the stern of the model, where the putty had been, is soft. I guess the curing process of the putty generates heat and melted it a bit. Fortunately, it didn�t do any significant damage but it definitely throws up a red flag about using putty. I�ve never used putty before, and I think if I was doing it again, I would build the putty up in layers instead of using a big blob, which was difficult to deal with, as discussed in a previous post.

Also, I probably should have waited another day, at least before I started sanding on it, because as I sanded there were soft spots and air pockets. This is another good reason for layering. Fairly early in the sand the block started to crack. At this point, I almost abandoned ship and started over, but I decided to go for it, and glued it in place and continued sanding.

Another issue I had was that in the process of keeping the putty glob from falling off the sides using my fingers, I pinched in too tight, and as a result there wasn�t enough putty on the sides. This was easily remedied by adding more putty, and after a few hours (not sure how many), the piece was finished as can be seen in the pictures below.

I�m very pleased with the way it came out and don�t think that I will be hesitant to scratch build in the future.

Tomorrow, uh, er, later today, I'll touch it up and paint it. Then there's always the rest of the guns�

A final note: Sanding putty is a messy venture. The &%@# gets everywhere! I may be repainting the hull too.

[Rdutnell]

Update 13 � 8/2/2012
This is just a quick update, having painted the newly scratch built stern mount support.

Now for the rest of the guns� for real!

[Rdutnell]

Update 14
The guns are done! There are 4 single 5� guns, 4 double 5� guns, 10 Quad 40mm MK-4�s (I made 12), and 52 single 20mm Oerlikons. The spec�s that I�ve read for Bennington say she had 47+ 20mm�s. I counted 47 on the Essex model kit plans. I haven�t looked closely, but I think that a few more 20mm�s were added to Bennington�s island. Enjoy the pix!

Next, after seeing more pix of Bennington's island there are some changes I need to make to mine to get it closer to correct. And then it's to the stern.
CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

FYI...
I just did something one should never do. Out of curiosity I tallied up how much I had spent on this model thus far. The results were somewhat shocking to me. Parts (including kit, PE, extra planes, jeeps, crew set,black chain, and lighting): $377.33; Supplies (paint, clippers, tweezers, knife blades, styrene sheets, rods, etc., putty, epoxy, pin vise and third hand): $126.88; Research (Books and DVD): $186.45; for a GRAND TOTAL OF $690.66. OUCH!!!!

[taskforce48]

GRAND TOTAL OF $690.66. OUCH!!!!

Dude! You never add it up! If you do that and the C-in-C finds it, you are a dead man!
Looking good so far, looking forward to more.

Matt

[Rdutnell]

GRAND TOTAL OF $690.66. OUCH!!!!

Dude! You never add it up! If you do that and the C-in-C finds it, you are a dead man!
Looking good so far, looking forward to more.

Matt

Yeah, she's not exactly whistlin' dixie about it, but what can you do?

[DanCinSD]

Ya take her to the closet and say let's count shoes!

[Rdutnell]

Ya take her to the closet and say let's count shoes!

We all have our weaknesses.

[Rdutnell]

Update 15

Another fun day of modeling�

Today�s (or yesterday�s) accomplishments included significant progress on the stern assembly and final(?) modification of the island. This post will cover the stern assembly. Island modification will be covered in a subsequent post.

The most incredible thing associated with the stern assembly is that I actually PLANNED AHEAD, and realized that AFTER I attached the second level (Subassembly w/parts C10-C13), I had better install the ladders and railing BEFORE attaching the upper level (parts B3, B4 [the supports], and C19). I was pretty proud of myself, because this is just the kind of thing I would screw up on.

After completing the stern as far as I wanted to go at this point in the build, I re-entered the world of scratch building to make the pots(?) for the Quad 40 radar. (At least I think that is what they are, every quad has one.) I looked at several photos of quad stern mounts. Perhaps the best was in Ray Bean�s Essex 2 DVD (which is awesome by the way, and worth every penny) showing the stern of the Ticonderoga (CV-14) (see below.)

To simulate this, the Evergreen styrene rod and tube assortment came in handy. The sizes aren�t provided on the package, but the largest tube in the package fit perfectly in the notch between the two gun tubs, so I used it for the �pots�. Even more fortuitous, the next size tube in the package slid right inside the larger tube and the radar (Part G13) fit nicely on to the smaller tube, so I could attach the radar to the end of the smaller tube, cut it to size and insert it into the larger tube to the proper depth.

In the picture of Ticonderoga, above, you can see that the aft-most �pot� straddles a cleat. Fortunately, I had a piece of 1/350 railing left over from the England (I think, maybe Mighty Mo), that just happened to have the right sized cleat so I cut a hole out of the bottom of the tube for that �pot� and glued the cleat to it. Unfortunately, at the resolution of my iPhone camera you can�t really see it.

Enjoy the pix!!!

[Rdutnell]

Update 16

More fun modeling�

As I said at the end of Update 14, poring over pictures made me realize that my island needed more work to come even close to looking like what Bennington looked like. Good pictures of the reconstructed fore-deck are hard to find, at least those with good enough resolution to decipher what is what. This is my best shot at it. I don�t think it�s completely correct, but it�s closer than it was and looks better than it did.

Once again, enjoy the pix!

Now I need to find a drill bit small enough to drill out the portholes. Any size recommendations for 1/350 portholes?

[LE BOSCO]

HI Rdutnell

it is unfortunate that your photos be blurred,because your model looks to be superb
best regards
Nicolas

[Rdutnell]

HI Rdutnell

it is unfortunate that your photos be blurred,because your model looks to be superb
best regards
Nicolas

Thanks Nicolas! I appreciate the nice words.
You are right about the blurry pix. I've mostly been using my iPhone, but have borrowed a nice camera for some of the updates. I need to use it more often and also get batteries for mine, which is not as good as the one I borrow, but may be better than the iPhone.
CHEERS!!!

[LE BOSCO]

HI Rdutnell

it is unfortunate that your photos be blurred,because your model looks to be superb
best regards
Nicolas

Thanks Nicolas! I appreciate the nice words.
You are right about the blurry pix. I've mostly been using my iPhone, but have borrowed a nice camera for some of the updates. I need to use it more often and also get batteries for mine, which is not as good as the one I borrow, but may be better than the iPhone.
CHEERS!!!

Rdutnell

a single sheet of paper as a background (it avoids that the sensor it "lose") a desk lamp and that's enough



strongly that we can admire your masterpiece
nicolas

[Rdutnell]

Rdutnell

a single sheet of paper as a background (it avoids that the sensor it "lose") a desk lamp and that's enough



strongly that we can admire your masterpiece
nicolas

Thanks again! I'll try to take better pix. I've been lazy, just shooting them on my work bench,and again, just using my iPhone. I'll use a better camera and find a good large sheet of paper or poster board to use as a back drop. I noticed that you used green. Do you think dark blue would be a good choice too?

Also, is that a battleship hull you got there?

[LE BOSCO]

Rdutnell

The blue is best is fine, but ,more colors is good too



to photograph the entire hull,I use a background of greater dimensions



regards
Nicolas

[Rdutnell]

NICE!!!

[Rdutnell]

Update 17

Still more fun modeling�

And more fun modifying the island. Pictures revealed that, whereas Essex had three 20mm guns on the starboard side of the island, forward, second level (Part F5), Bennington had six. Therefore, some relatively easy scratch building was required. I started by cutting out the forward splinter shield of the existing piece. Next, I used a flat 0.020� piece of styrene, measured and cut to the proper size, for the base. I then cut strips of the same 0.002� styrene, for the splinter shields, and glued them on to the base. Then I had a cunning plan (ALA Black Adder) and used part of an old PE fret to help support the new piece and to help attach it to the existing piece. The PE provides support but is thin, is on the underside of the piece, and is pretty much unnoticeable.

I still wanted to add support and need practice on applying the 0.030� x 0.030� styrene strips that will be used to help support the catwalk, so I added a strip of it here.

I painted the deck, but can�t paint the splinter shields until the part is in place because it crosses all 3 dazzle colors and to properly align it with the existing paint lines is most easily done with the part attached. Since the newly made part is partially underneath another part, the guns need to be attached before the part itself can be placed. Otherwise it would be extremely difficult, if not impossible to get the guns mounted properly. So, I attached the guns and was preparing to attach the new part, and more guns on the island, but decided against it until I can get the portholes drilled out. I�m sure I could do it with the part attached, but that�s asking for trouble. (Note the cock-eyed shield. I�ll have to try to fix that.)

Besides, after seeing Louis Carabott�s USS Wasp LHD-1 (http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... /index.htm) I have toyed with the idea of trying lights myself. Tracy Whites �Gallery LHD Wasp as LHD-2 USS Essex� thread (viewtopic.php?f=59&t=105939) furthered that interest and I bought a 3V light kit (http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/mi.html) that included 2 soft white bulbs and can run up to 10 lights off of a coin cell battery. I also bought one each orange, green and blue to see what effect each of the colors has. I tried them, by temporarily taping them to the underside of the flight deck and running the lines out the hanger doors to the battery. I was really impressed by the blue and green and the soft white was nice, but I wasn�t impressed with the orange. It was really dim compared to the others. Perhaps it is faulty. In any event, I don�t want to attach delicate parts until I have the lights wired, so, what to do next? Maybe I'll have to break down and by the complete drill set ($24.79). I was just hoping to buy the size I need, which I' m not 100% sure I know what that is.

I promise that this is the last update that I will use my iPhone for taking the pictures. On future updates I will use a better camera and have better pictures.
CHEERS!

[Rdutnell]

Update 18

Better pix.

This isn�t really an update, it�s just better pictures of the same items presented earlier. Still, the pictures warrant a few comments.

In the first picture, the PE strip used underneath for support can be clearly seen.

The second picture shows the extended platform accommodating 6 guns instead of 3. Note the 0.030� x 0.030� strip for added support. Also note the door I added. I don�t know if there is actually a door there or not, but it seemed like an appropriate place for one. I�ll bet there was at least one door midway as well. Finally there�s the blasted cock-eyed shield.

The remaining shots show the stern assembly from different angles. Note that painting is not complete.

Well, I guess it�s off to the hobby store for some drill bits so I can drill out the portholes and get the lights installed. Oh, and from here on, all updates will include pictures of this quality.

CHEERS!!!