USCGC Bertholf (WMSL-750) � A CAD Design for 3D Printing

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 8

Good Morning Everybody!

Progress on the Notch continues, though perhaps not as smoothly as I would like. Before I describe the progress of the day, here are a couple more pictures of the Notch.





The day started out good. I began by filling in the center section of the winch recess and creating the face plate by extruding a rectangle into the opening.





I then moved the cut out at the aft end, which I did by drawing a polyline. The bottom of the polyline is flat, the top matches the slope of the tracks and the aft end is perpendicular to the tracks.



I then extruded the polyline�



�Mirrored to the other side and subtracted it.



I then extended the tracks to the end of the new wall�



�And joined them to the existing tracks.



Next I started on the aft bearing house, first making the wheel with an extruded circle, and the guide block with an extruded polygon. I also drew some rectangles to roughly define the outer boundaries of the housing.



I then added the base and cylindrical ends. The actual base is flat, but I made mine trapezoidal to increase strength. I also have my cylinders abutting each other for additional support.



Next, I mirrored the cylinders to the other end of the housing.



This was followed by the side, which I extruded to the edge of the circle.



This too was mirrored to form the other side of the housing.



To make the top of the housing, I first drew two different sized rectangles, offset them�



�And lofted them. I also extruded a rectangle between them and subtracted it to form the wire opening.



I didn�t think this one through very well because I later discovered that it didn�t produce the result I wanted which is have the ability to run a thin line through it.




So, to fix this I had to slice the top off, recreate the spool, subtract it from the top, and then rejoin the pieces.



At this point I turned myself to the upper (forward) support, beginning by extruding a filleted rectangle into the bulkhead/deck in the proper location. In hindsight, I should have done this support first, because if you look at the image below you can see that the lower track is below the level of the boat recess, which it should not be. This stumped me!



When I first designed it I positioned the top track at the level of the main deck. The spacing between the tracks was about 1-1/2 times their thickness (or diameter). The moving part that holds the net that grabs the boats coming in (and I suppose lowers outgoing ones) was drawn in perspective with the tracks. After a little thought I realized that this could mean only one thing. The thickness I assumed for the tracks must have been wrong.

So, I scaled it 80%, using the top of the top track as the reference point. This did the trick, and I was able to complete the upper support. It�s not perfect, but it looks pretty good and I like it.



At this point I introduced my �cunning plan� (if you ever watched Black Adder you know the correct way to say it). I segmented the tracks to form 5 pieces, there is boat retriever(?), two unequal size upper track parts and two unequal size lower tracks. If this is practical, and Pavel likes the idea, I will put the same male female combinations on the ends to allow the modeler to display it in 3 different positions, at the top, not in use�



�At the bottom, ready for action�



�Or if desired, part way up, in a diorama of a recovery (or deployment) in action, simply by changing the order of the parts. If it was going to be at 1/144 scale, or larger, I would make it so that it would be moveable, but at 1/350 and 1/700, this isn't possible, with SLA printing (Perhaps with PE though.)



Here are 2 images of it from aft in the up position. The first is in Conceptual Visual Style and the second is in Realistic Visual Style. I�m happy with it! (Although I still need to put the support flanges on the upper support.)





CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 9


Hi Guys!

Progress continues on the boat retrieval system as I did the winches this afternoon. The best picture I have of the area, and what I based the design on is shown below.



I started by defining the opening clearly then made the spool portion so that it would fill slightly over half of the space. I then drew a rectangle and drew and copied circles for the spool itself. Note the alignment of the cable padeyes is perfect. The 80% reduction I mentioned in my last post was the right move.



I lofted the base first�



�Then the spool. Although perhaps not totally correct, the center spool is tied into the side bulkhead for support. Note again how nicely the spool lines up with the cable padeyes (green line).



After this I extruded a rectangle to form the drive box.



Then I drew, stretched copied and mirrored rectangles to give the face some definition approximating the picture�



�And extruded them partway into the housing.



Last, I joined it all together (I can separate it later if Pavel wants to make multiple parts out of it), recolored it, and thanks again to symmetry, mirrored it to the other side. An interesting thing about this model as compared to the models I made for myself is that I tried to minimize assembly for the most part. Pavel is making a kit and probably wants more pieces than I would make if I was doing it for myself. But I digress. Here are some image clips of it. Enjoy!







CHEERS!!!

[Richard J OMalley]

That is alot of detail for the scales you are working in .The bolts you made , are they inch or metric ?

[Rdutnell]

Good one Richard!


That depends on where you are from.

But you are right, they are small. As you may know, I am currently building the model in full scale, and will have to scale it down at some point. I am designing mostly with 1/350 scale in mind at this point, and have a spreadsheet set up to do the conversion from my real scale drawing to both 1/350 and 1/700. Since the minimum radius, or thickness, that the 3D printer being used can print is 0.0034� (which equates to 0.1� (or 1.2�)), I am trying to make sure that I don�t make anything smaller than that. Items that aren�t supported must be thicker, 0.02� (or ~0.6�). For example the plate that supports the forward end of the tracks is probably only an inch or two thick in real life (3 at the outside I would guess), but to maintain the minimum thickness and yet still include this important feature, the one I drew would be closer to 7� thick if real size. So, as many of you probably know, you have to take some artistic license when designing a �to scale� model, which is part of the challenge and fun of it.

Having said that, because of the 80% reduction I made, the bolts may be too small to print, as may be the holes in the flanges. The nuts and the flanges themselves should print as they both exceed the machine limits of 0.0034� at 1/350 scale. 1/700 scale will be another matter, but I knew coming in to this that it is really going to be 2 models, and that many things I will have to do twice. Because of that, I recently decided that every component I make from here out will be save as a separate drawing by copying it and the reference frame lines to a blank drawing. That way, any changes that need to be made can easily be done. My guess is that no matter how I do it, when I actually get to the 1/700 model, I am going to wish I had done things differently to make the process easier. Oh well, I will cross that bridge when I get to it. Now it�s back to the current model!

CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 10

Good Morning All!

Well, I decided to add the boat stowage blocks but the session didn�t go quite as expected. I started by tracing the location of the various blocks and the rudder BERP from the Main Deck plan sheet�



�And copying them to the model.



When I did this, the first thing that I noticed was that my track cut out extended farther aft than shown on the plans. IKES!

So, I started looking into it, looking at my notch geometry again. When I did, I noticed that my lower ramp was not parallel to the boat ramp itself. I wondered if that was the problem, so I extended lines from the upper part of the ramp down and the lower part over until it intersected. I copied the line up to the corner of my existing cut out and the end point was right where it is on the plans.



That meant a modification was in order, so I put off the boat stowage blocks and redid it, which was easier than I thought it might be. I began by tracing the outline of the cutout and copying it to the new location.



I then created a polyline with the copied tracing, extending it well back into the existing structure. I also sliced off the guide�



�And moved it to its new location.



Next I extruded into the existing structure and also drew a polyline at the new break in slope and extruded it into the structure as well.



Then I mirrored the two objects to the other side�



�Joined the aft objects to fill the old recess and subtracted the forward objects to create the new break in slope.



With the ramp and recess modified, this left only rotating the track assembly, which I thought may have been problematic, but as you will see, was not.

To begin this process I first defined the center lines of the two tracks on the down side with lines and then copied them to the new location�



�And to the center line of the top track, at the top. Also, although not shown, I also sliced the top bracket at the aft face.



I then prepared to rotate it by creating reference lines extending from the center of the top track at the forward (upper) end, which is to be the axis of rotation to the existing center at the aft (lower) end to the new location.



All of the tracks and the moveable device itself were all rotated using the reference lines. (Note that the lower pulley mechanism was not rotated and was simply moved forward. Also note that it is now square with the tracks, whereas before it was slightly off-square). I also sliced off the tracks.



At this point I checked it out and since it looked good, I reattached the upper plate to the upper track parts that I had previously sliced before rotating�



�Then mirrored it all to the other side.







I think that I finally have it right, and won�t need to redo it. What do you think?

Now to the boat stowage blocks I had planned on doing.

CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 11

Hi Guys!

As planned earlier today, I completed the boat stowage blocks, which were both fun and somewhat challenging. As a result documentation of the process is somewhat lacking. Nevertheless, here is the process I followed.
The layout of the blocks, as shown in the previous post, was copied from the Main Deck plans to the model.





Everything else was based entirely on the photo below.



The first thing I did was extrude a circle for the rudder BERP.



Due to the small size, the center blocks could not be modeled with 100% accuracy. Instead they consist of 2 components, a top block that was lofted between 2 squares and a lower section lofted between the same bottom square and a rectangle slightly larger abeam and the same size of the circle fore and aft. The green squares were extruded and subtracted from the lower piece.



Then holes were drilled in the top. The holes are 0.11� radius, which converts to 0.0037� at 1/350 scale, just above what the 3D printer can print, so they are slightly out of scale (too big) but I think that they need to be there.



Once again thinking about a kit, rather than simply a 3D printed model for myself, I put male pins on the bottom of the block�



�Before copying to the other locations on the deck.



Next, I copied all 8 blocks back out of the way�



�Then subtracted them from the hole to create female holes to mate with the blocks�



�And moved the copied blocks back in to position, before starting on the side blocks.

The support posts for the side blocks are once again larger than they actually are. In order to assure sufficient diameter, not just for printing but for strength as well, they need to be at least 0.02� in diameter. I made them 0.024�, or 0.7� on the real scale model. This is slightly over 8 inches, which is probably twice their actual size. That is for 1/350 scale. I�m not sure what to do about these at 1/700 scale, but I�ll worry about that later. The support flange I added to the inside is similarly oversized. The first post does not have a block on it. Most of the remaining posts do. All posts are at 60 degrees from horizontal.



Posts with blocks have a horizontal collar some distance below the block itself. These items are 0.006� thick at 1/350 scale, which can be printed, but may not be durable enough to survive cleaning, handling, etc. but I thought I should start with them on and remove them if necessary. The block itself was made by copying one of the center blocks, slicing off the bottom, then slicing it in half and scooting it together to make a rectangle as opposed to a square. The tough thing was positioning the block as it had to be positioned at the correct height and be rotated in two directions to match the hull of a boat. To set them perfectly would require having, or making a model of the boat hull that will be resting on the blocks. I just did the best I could and tried to match the picture.



For successive blocks, I copied the one I just made to the next location lowered the collar and block to what I thought was the correct position and rotated the block in 2 directions to get what looked like the right alignment, then sliced the post off at the bottom of the block.





After adding the last flange, I drew a reference line down the center of the center blocks.



This line isn�t strictly necessary, as I could just define the reference by clicking on the center points of the blocks, but I like having a line so that I can really make sure that I am using the right reference. Anyway, the block assemblies were all mirrored around this center reference line�



�Then mirrored again about the center of the ship. Like I said before, you gotta love symmetry!



A couple of things I didn�t document�

I drilled out holes in the empty posts to hollow them out at the top.

I also put male pins on the ends of the block posts. These pins are vertical and therefore at a 70 degree angle to the posts. I had originally thought about just having them go straight, but at least 2 posts, and possibly 4 would project through the bulkhead if I did that. The pins are 0.5� in diameter (0.017� at 1/350 scale).

Female connecting points were made as before by copying all of the block/post assemblies to the side subtracting the ones left in place from the model then moving the copied ones back.





At this point I added nuts and bolts to the rudder BERPs. The 30 bolts are near the lower end of the 3D printer capabilities with a 0.2� radius (0.0069� at 1/350 scale), which is bigger than they really are, but I think the effect works.











CHEERS!!!

[Richard J OMalley]

Looks like you have as much work on the " notch " as you have in the hole ship .

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 12

I know! Right? (Isn�t that the latest expression? )

So far! But in the little CAD ship modeling I have done, the ship itself has been the easy part. The devil is in the details. Greenling, a modern(?) submarine, had relatively little detail. Batfish a WW3 fleet boat (which were really ships that went under water as opposed to later subs that were under water ships) had considerably more detail, which I have yet to finish. Now Bertholf, a full fledged ship has detailing galore. I think the notch is just a precursor of what lays ahead.

Speaking of ahead, well it is actually astern, but moving ahead on the model, the next thing I did was make the stern (I assume there are more) Roller Chock. I had a couple of pictures, none showing the top. A clip of the one I mostly used is shown below.



I began as usual by drawing the outlines I will need, in this case I used filleted rectangles for both the base and body�



�Which were lofted and extruded, respectively.



I used another filleted rectangle to cut out the middle.





I used yet another extruded rectangle to cut a notch in the top.





Extruded triangles were made to add flanges on the sides.



To make the rollers I first sized and laid out circles to fill the cut out space, then drew an arc and joined it to a polyline�



�That I then revolved, and copied to the other side.



I have no idea what the top looks like, but it looked too open to me so I added some extruded at the top, right or wrong. This was an easy piece to make so if I need to redo it, I certainly could.







Once again I have not attached it until I get a chance to talk to Pavel about it. Next is the Towing Chock on the port side of the notch.

CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 13

I made quick work out of the Towing Chock, using the picture below for reference.



It was really quite simple. I first extruded a rectangle for a small base, then drew a circle that I copied, joined with lines and trimmed to make a polyline. Next I drew an ellipse on one end of the closed polyline, copied it to the other side (although I didn�t need to do that) and �



�Extruded it along the polyline.



Next, I extruded the polyline through the created solid�



�And used the intersect command to produce the chock.







Quick and Dirty!

CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 14

After completing the chocks and getting some stuff done that I had to do, I decided to have a go at the boat hoist/monorail system and got a pretty good start on it. The plans were pretty rough with not much information provided. I have a few pictures but not enough to show everything. The 2 best pictures I have for this phase are shown below, and I think I get the overall picture, and I that what I have so far provides a fairly good approximation at 1/350 scale.





The plan view sheet of the Main Deck shows the horizontal location of the frame, so the first thing I did was trace it�



�And copy it to the hull. You can see how the ends mate nicely with the recess.



The outboard profile plans have a decent cross section showing the elevation of the support beams, so I also trace it�





Using the two tracings in concert, I moved the cross-section to one end on the plan view and copied it to the other side.



The vertical beams are a little over 1� square on the plans, which at 1/350 scale would be ~0.04�. I don�t know if it was a good idea, but rather than leave the beams square I decided that I would make I-beams out of them.



The members of the I-beam are 0.01� thick at 1/350 scale. They should print, but I don�t know how well. If it doesn�t work, I can always easily change it to squares or a modified �I� to provide more support at the base, but for now, that�s what I did. The one I was then copied to the other 3 corners and extruded to the sections at the top.



The horizontal beams are slightly smaller as seen below, but I maintained the 0.01� minimum thickness.



After drawing the outline of the �I�, I rotated it 90 degrees�



�Copied it to the other side and extruded them.



With the forward and aft cross beams completed, I rotated the �I� 90 degrees�



�And repeated the process.



I then copied the �I� down to make the hoist tracks, copied it and extruded them.



At this point I decided to break the side to side horizontal beams into 3 equal segments. This would give the builder the option to have them on the sides or have one in the middle retrieving, or deploying a boat.



With the main frame completed, I started doing some of the detailing on it, first adding the braces that attach� the monorail to the frame. I made them so that they could be slid into the I-beam if they aren�t too small for this.



Although I didn�t document the process, the next thing I did was make the supports for the monorail attachment points. Here�s what I came up with.



This was copied to the other side of the support�



Mirrored to the other side of the cross beam.



All of this was mirrored to the other cross beam�



�And then everything was mirrored to the other lift (I had deleted the monorails I had previously copied).



The last thing I did in this session was to put everything on a layer named �Monorail� and colored it all gray.





CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 15

Good Morning All!

I have been busy the last couple of days, but I have made some progress, continuing with the boat hoist/mono-rail detailing.

I have posted some of the pictures I am using to accomplish this. Here are three more.







I began the session on the platform for the moveable hoist. This will likely be PE on the model kit, but for now I am making it more or less for reference and for the challenge. I first drew the profile using a rectangle�



�Then extruded it.



Next I made one of the attachment brackets using an extruded polyline.



This bracket was copied forward and then both were copied to the other side.



At this point, I decided that I really didn�t have enough information to do this component justice, so I turned my attention to the forward end hardware, starting with a lofted rectangle for what looks like a drive motor�



Next, I added the support brackets that attach the object to the support beam using lofted rectangles.



After this I added a protruding extruded circle and cut out an extruded rectangle.





I next added a segmented shaft using extruded circles.



The supports for the shaft were added next, using a series of extruded rectangles�



�That were joined together.



A protrusion was then added to the shaft to, more or less, match the pictures.



A small tube sticking up out of the motor was added next using an extruded circle.



This complete assembly was then copied to the other side.



Being satisfied with the forward end, I moved to the aft end, adding the boxes using extruded rectangles, and preparing to add the shafts by drawing circles.



However, I wasn�t really comfortable that I knew what the contraption looks like, so I stopped for the day. If anybody has some good pictures showing any of the hoist mechanisms, Please post them or e-mail them to me. I would love to see them!

CHEERS!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 16� 6/27/2013


With the uncertainty I have with the boat hoist details, I moved forward, at least temporarily to do the cutout in the main deck bulkhead, and the extension for the Level 01 Deck above.

Before I did that I scaled everything, model plans, grid lines, misc. lines, EVERYTHING to 1/350 scale. From here out all dimensions I give are real scale.

I have 4 pretty good pictures showing the area.









The plans also showed the lines I needed, so I copied them. Note the recess for the additional recess for the passage.



I copied this to the proper location at the main deck level.



To cut out the recess I drew a rectangle so that the bottom was at the main deck level, the top was 1/16� (0.0625�) below the Deck01 level, the ends were 1/16� inside the outer edge of the ship. The top corners of the rectangle were then moved in 1/16��



�Extruded it forward to the line on the traced shape�



�And subtracted it from the model. Although the steps aren�t shown the passage was cut out with a properly sized and positioned rectangle.



The platform was added next, using the copied shape to define it and extruding it.



This was followed by the support beams, which were created with 0.02� squares. I think that is about as small as it can get and still have a chance of being durable enough. It would be >6� if scaled to actual size, but what can you do?



Last, I extruded the beams down to the deck.



That�s where I stopped until I get a chance to confirm some details about the model with Pavel.

CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 17



I finally talked to Pavel today and one of the things we discussed is test printing a few of the parts to see how they look. I sent 10 pieces (excuse me for not knowing some of their real names): the port side boat retriever (the object that moves up and down the tracks), the port side boat retriever pulley (the stationary object near the aft end of the tracks), a boat stowage block, the port side door, closed and open port side hydraulic mechanisms(arm) for the door, vertical and horizontal I-beams, and the towing and roller chocks.

To this end, I had to complete the door and hydraulic arms before sending them for printing. I had made attachment points for the hydraulic arms to the stern of the hull, but I had not provided a means of connecting them to the door. I started with the closed position arm.



?
Because of the small size of the objects I decided to keep the connection subtle, more as an alignment point using a sphere with a 0.020� diameter added to the arm.





The arm was then mirrored to the starboard side.



Following this, 0.021� spheres were subtracted from the doors. First the port side�



�Then the starboard side.



0.020� diameter spheres were also added to the open position arms.



CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 18

Good Evening (Morning) Guys!

Another thing I talked to Pavel about was the thickness to make the larger components, i.e. decks and bulkheads. I had originally made them 1/16� (0.0625�) thick. Pavel suggested that I could make them 3/64� (0.0468�). I decided to make them 0.046� thick (who�s going to miss eight ten thousandths of an inch?) In the image below of the original helo pad extension, I have added a 0.046� line down from the deck at the left corner.



Here is what it looks like after I sliced the extension. It�s about 26% thinner.



After this I prepared to cut the deck and bulkheads using a polyline (blue)�



�Which I extruded into the model�



�And subtracted.





At this point I sliced off the two vertical support beams at the underside of the extension and created a surface coplanar with the aft face of the deck and bulkheads�



�And used it to slice the extension.



I then turned my attention to mounting the support beams. In the image below you can see a smaller magenta square (that has been extruded), and a larger blue square.



The smaller extruded square was added to both ends of the beam and then copied to the other side.







The larger blue square was extruded, then copied to the bottom of the beam and then to the other side.



It was then subtracted from the model�



�And the extension.



Next I made the connection point for the extension to the deck, using extruded rectangles, which were added to the extension�



�Increased in size just a tad�



�And subtracted from the deck.





CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 19

Good Morning Again!

I decided to start the day with coffee and the boat retrieval winch. Unfortunately, it is covered in all of the pictures I have, so I had to use the plans as best I could, because they aren�t very detailed. The inboard detail plans show the side view of the winch, so I traced it�



�And copied it to the model.



The level 1 plans show it from the top and many of the features are clearly round, so I drew a bunch of circles�



�Rotated them 90 degrees and lofted them. I also drew a support box.



I them copied it to the model, and although I didn�t document it, I combined features from both views to create a rough approximation of the winch.







At this point I looked at pictures and the winch appears to be more forward than shown on the plans, as people are clearly between it and the end of the deck (see 1st photo in Update 16), so I moved it forward slightly.



With the shape completed, I prepared the mounting pins, opting to use spheres. In the image below I have added 0.025� diameter spheres to the bottom surface of the winch assembly. The image below shows it from the underside with the model layer turned off.



I was originally going to put the male end of the connection on the winch and the female on the deck, but thought that the part would print better if I reversed it, so I scaled the spheres up to have a diameter of 0.0263� and subtracted them.



I then redrew the 0.025� spheres.



The image below shows it from the other side with the model layer turned back on and the winch layer turned off.



The last step was to add the spheres to the model.








I have no idea how closely it matches the real deal, since I have never seen it, but I think it looks good enough at the small scales it will be printed in.

CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 20

Greetings Everyone!

The journey continues, this time with the Astern Refueling Hose Reel shown clearly in the picture below.



The reel was also shown on the Main Deck plan view, so I traced the outline and drew a couple of circles�



�That I extruded.



I extruded the base next�



�And copied it to the model.



I then added the side supports, starting with the vertical support, which I made 0.02� square, partially emerging from the base.



This was followed by the angled side supports.



Next I shelled the base to 0.02�.



To make the reel look more realistic, I tried extruding a 0.02� diameter around the perimeter and mirrored it to the other side.



They are obviously too big, but I thought I would keep going to see what it looked like completed, so I added the spokes to the wheel. (Note that I deleted the copied wheel until I finish.)



I then added a center support to the base and the ring in the middle of the wheel�



�And joined everything together, made a layer for it and colored it gray.



Next I made the connections as I did with the boat retrieval winch using a 0.0263� diameter spheres subtracted from the reel for the female parts�



�And 0,025� radius spheres added to the deck for the male parts.





I think the effect is OK, even if the wheel is a bit large. I suspect PE may be used for this feature anyway, at least the wheel and I suspect I may be revisiting this item in the future to accommodate that. But for now, here are a couple of images of it on the ship.





Still more later I�m sure.

CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 21

Hi Everyone!

Pondering what to do next, I looked at the Main Deck plan sheet and traced the objects that need to be added�



�And copied them to the model.



For no particular e reason I decided to do the �Designated Quarter Deck Area� and he �Shore Power Switchboard and Receptacles� first., which I did by extruding the rectangles (after repositioning it in the case of the switchboard.



Photos reveal that the switchboard has a cut out with rounded corners, so I prepared to make it by drawing a rectangle and filleting the corners at 0.03�.



I moved the shape out a tad and extruded it to the bulkhead�



�And subtracted it from the extruded rectangle. I also added what appears to be a power or control box of some sort by extruding yet another rectangle.



I added what looks like it may be a drain pipe. This was added from pictures, and not the plans. The pipe was laid so that it abuts the surface of the bulkhead for better support.



The fitting on the end of the pipe was added next�



� Followed by the support brackets that provided additional, you guessed it, support.



I even added the cap to the line, hanging open as in the photos I have.



After this, I turned my attention to the watertight doors, drawing two different sized rectangles and filleting their corners before extruding them. The wider frame juts out from the bulkhead 0.005�. The door juts out from the frame another 0.008�.



The image below shows the first of the handle base locations.



To which I added a handle. I didn�t document the process, but it consists of a circle with a 0.004�diameter extruded up from the base, a 0.004� diameter circle revolved 90 degrees, a 0.004� diameter circle lofted with a 0.003� diameter circle, and capped with a 0.003� diameter sphere. All of this is partially imbedded in the door for stability even though obviously that is not the way it is in real life.



The parts were joined and the handle was mirrored down to the lower corner. Both were then mirrored to the other side.



Next I copied one of the corner handles to the right side and rotated it to be square. I also had to slice off some on the end so it would be flush with the side, and then slice the handle off and rotate it so that it was sloped slightly down as seen in photos. When I was happy with it I copied it to the other locations on the side and then mirrored them to the other side.



With the door completed, I copied it to the location of the other door. I also saved it into its own drawing because I have a feeling that there will be more of these watertight doors.



Last, I added what looks like a duty roster or log of some sort.









I would like to keep going, but I think I need a few hours of sleep.

Night! Night!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 22

Good Afternoon Everyone!

I started the day once again with coffee and Bertholf, opting to make the 10� Double Bits first, starting with the one in the forward port side corner.



To begin, I moved the rectangle and 2 circles up 0.01� and filleted the corners at 0.007�.



I then extruded the filleted rectangle down for the base�



�Copied the base circles up and added some to make the top of the bitts�



�And lofted/extruded it all.



I then added the padeyes(?) seen in photos of other 10� double bitts on the ship. They are too small to add a hole so they are just tabs and they may be too small as is.



Next, I mirrored the padeyes to the other side of the bitt.



At this point I copied all of the bitt components (and the reference base line) to a new file for future use, as I am sure there are many of these to come. On the plans, all of the 10� double bitts show padeyes on both sides of the bitt, but on the 2 �corner� bitts, the padeyes are only shown on the forward-outboard side, so I deleted the aft-inboard ones for this bitt.



Even though it isn�t needed for printing the model, for visual sake of the virtual model, I sliced the bitt up and colored the top and bottom sections yellow-orange and the mid-section a shade of blue-green.



I then copied the bitt from the new file and by aligning my coordinate system properly, easily copied the bitt to the next spot the plans show one�



�And to all of the other places they are shown, except the �corner� bitt which I mirrored using the other �corner� bitt.







I should note that I may need to add attachment points at some time if they aren't made with the main deck. I thought I would talk to Pavel about this before spending time on it if not needed.

And the journey continues�

CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

UPDATE 23

Hi Again!

In the process of making the 10� double bitts, I noticed that I hadn�t put the actual hinges on the water tight doors, so I did that next, starting with drawing and positioning a rectangle�



�That I extruded into the base.



The top corners were filleted at 0.004�.



For the hinge part I drew a rectangle matching the outside part of the part just made, moved it inboard and forward slightly, and filleted the outside corner, before mirroring it the other side of the existing part.



I then extruded it and joined it to the other part.



Next I mirrored it down for the lower hinge�



�And copied them to the other door.



I then joined them to the model, but before doing that I opened the Watertight Door file and copied them the hinges there so my �template� door would be complete.



Now for the Mooring Capstones.

CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

Ola!

The Mooring Capstones went really smoothly. The plans told me where it went and I had some good pictures showing what it looks like, including the one shown below, which shows a mooring capstone in the background and one of the 10� double bitts in the foreground.



Most everything was made using either extruded or lofted circles, beginning with the base.



The circles used to make the capstone are shown below.



Here it is after lofting.



And here it is after I added 24 bolts around the flange. The bolts were made by inscribed a hexagon within a 0.004� radius circle and extruding them up 0.004�. It is pushing the limit again, but I think that they will print.





When I was finished, I copied it to the other side as well as to its own drawing file.



As I did with the doubled bitts, I colored it to try to better match pictures solely to make the virtual model look more realistic.







More to follow, after a bite to eat�

CHEERS!!!