Tips for Shapeways 3D-printed Parts

[ModelMonkey]

Tip #6: "Frosted Detail" plastic may be sensitive to prolonged oxygen exposure. Please clean and paint your "Frosted Detail" products soon after receiving them, or leave them in the plastic bag they were shipped in until you can clean and paint them.

FUD and FXD parts are shipped to you in plastic bubble wrap. The parts will come to you covered in a thin, protective coating of oil. If you don't intend to use your parts for a while, just leave them be, uncleaned, in their wrap.

"Frosted Detail" Kunststoff kann empfindlich auf verl�ngerte Sauerstoffbelastung sein. Bitte reinigen und malen Sie Ihre "Frosted Detail" Produkte bald nach dem Erhalt, oder lassen Sie sie in der Plastikt�te, die sie versendet wurden, bis Sie sie reinigen und malen k�nnen.

"Frosted Detail" plastique peut �tre sensible � l'exposition prolong�e � l'oxyg�ne. Veuillez nettoyer et peindre vos produits "Frosted Detail" peu de temps apr�s leur r�ception ou les laisser dans le sac en plastique qu'ils ont exp�di� jusqu'� ce que vous puissiez les nettoyer et les peindre.

"Frosted Detail" plastic puede ser sensible a la exposici�n prolongada al ox�geno. Por favor, limpie y pinte sus productos de "Frosted Detail" poco despu�s del recibo o d�jelos en la bolsa de pl�stico que han enviado hasta que pueda limpiarlos y pintarlos.

"Frosted Detail" ?????????? ??????? ????? ???? ????????????? ? ???????????????? ??????????? ?????????. ??????????, ???????? ? ????????? ???? ??????? Frosted Detail ?????? ????? ?? ????????? ??? ???????? ?? ? ?????????????? ??????, ? ??????? ??? ???? ??????????, ???? ?? ?? ???????? ? ?? ????????? ??.

"Frosted Detail" muovi voi olla herkk� pitk�aikainen happialtistuksen. Puhdista ja maalaa huurrettua Detail tuotteita pian saatuaan niit� tai j�tt�� ne muovipussiin ne kuljetettiin kunnes voit puhdistaa ja maalata ne.

??????? "Frosted Detail" ?????????????????????????????????????????? ??????????????????????????????? "Frosted Detail" ????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

[maxim]

Thank your for the information! That could explain the yellowing of some of the parts I had ordered.

[ModelMonkey]

A customer has reported a bad experience cleaning 3D printed parts with "Goo Gone" which he reports attacked the plastic damaging the part.

Please do not use Goo Gone to clean Frosted Detail plastic.

Please follow the most up-to-date cleaning and painting advice found on the cover page of my catalog. All of my product webpages link to that advice.

[ModelMonkey]

Tip # 7: fixing a warped part.

If you receive a warped 3D-printed part from Shapeways, that likely means there is liquid resin present in your part which permitted the part to bend during packaging and/or shipping. Fully cured acrylic plastic does not bend, it breaks.

To cure the warp, fix the product to a flat surface or otherwise set it to the position you want it to be in and expose it to a lot of UV light. It will harden in the position you set. No need to apply any heat, just a good dose of sunlight.

[ChrisL]

Great info people. Just purchased my first Shapeways item. Wonder why they wouldn't put a sheet of this info in with it ? Too obvious ? Thanks folks, I just soaked mine in Simple Green and will put it in the sun tomorrow.

[garyrunnalls]

I just received my 1/3000 and 1/4800 scale ships, amazing detail on the 1/3000 IJN and USN warships. I washed them in Dawn and primed them with Tamiya acrylic paint using my airbrush. WOW! details are incredible!

[chuck]

Hi, does anyone have experience using tamiya lacquer spray paint on frosted ultra detail?

[cam]

Tip #6: "Frosted Detail" plastic may be sensitive to prolonged oxygen exposure. Please clean and paint your "Frosted Detail" products soon after receiving them, or leave them in the plastic bag they were shipped in until you can clean and paint them.

FUD and FXD parts are shipped to you in plastic bubble wrap. The parts will come to you covered in a thin, protective coating of oil. If you don't intend to use your parts for a while, just leave them be, uncleaned, in their wrap.

"Frosted Detail" Kunststoff kann empfindlich auf verl�ngerte Sauerstoffbelastung sein. Bitte reinigen und malen Sie Ihre "Frosted Detail" Produkte bald nach dem Erhalt, oder lassen Sie sie in der Plastikt�te, die sie versendet wurden, bis Sie sie reinigen und malen k�nnen.

"Frosted Detail" plastique peut �tre sensible � l'exposition prolong�e � l'oxyg�ne. Veuillez nettoyer et peindre vos produits "Frosted Detail" peu de temps apr�s leur r�ception ou les laisser dans le sac en plastique qu'ils ont exp�di� jusqu'� ce que vous puissiez les nettoyer et les peindre.

"Frosted Detail" plastic puede ser sensible a la exposici�n prolongada al ox�geno. Por favor, limpie y pinte sus productos de "Frosted Detail" poco despu�s del recibo o d�jelos en la bolsa de pl�stico que han enviado hasta que pueda limpiarlos y pintarlos.

"Frosted Detail" ?????????? ??????? ????? ???? ????????????? ? ???????????????? ??????????? ?????????. ??????????, ???????? ? ????????? ???? ??????? Frosted Detail ?????? ????? ?? ????????? ??? ???????? ?? ? ?????????????? ??????, ? ??????? ??? ???? ??????????, ???? ?? ?? ???????? ? ?? ????????? ??.

"Frosted Detail" muovi voi olla herkk� pitk�aikainen happialtistuksen. Puhdista ja maalaa huurrettua Detail tuotteita pian saatuaan niit� tai j�tt�� ne muovipussiin ne kuljetettiin kunnes voit puhdistaa ja maalata ne.

??????? "Frosted Detail" ?????????????????????????????????????????? ??????????????????????????????? "Frosted Detail" ????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Wish I had read this post before buying parts for my next 3 ship builds, which could take up to 3 years. Since there has been some time since this information was posted, hopefully the answer to my question will be easy. Would it be best to store in original packaging or clean and undercoat?

[ModelMonkey]

Either way, your parts should be fine.

I have parts in hand printed 4 years ago, some of which are still in their original bags, and others cleaned and primed, and they are all in great shape.

Thanks for your patronage!

[mikasa]

Just bought my first shapeways part - 20mm oerlikon tubs for British ships. Nice. The only option was clear plastic. I will clean up as described. I'm assuming I need to use CA glue to stick them to other plastic. I had to cut one to put a flat surface on one side of the tub (one of the mounts on HMS Victorious). Was dead simple. Once I cut a piece of styrene for the flat surface, I'm assuming it's CA to stick it on. And then CA to attach it to the superstructure. Correct?

[ModelMonkey]

Thanks for you patronage!

Yes, CA is a very good choice as an adhesive.

"Fine Detail" acrylic plastic is chemically related to Plexiglas. Cements like Testors liquid cement, which do work very well for polystyrene, don't work with "Fine Detail" acrylic. CA is a good choice because it works well with both injection-molded polystyrene and "Fine Detail" acrylic.

[ModelMonkey]

Shapeways recently changed the names of some of its materials based on customer feedback.

"White Strong and Flexible" is now "White Processed Versatile Plastic". This material is nylon.
"Frosted Ultra Detail (FUD)" is now "Smooth Fine Detail Plastic". This material is acrylic, chemically related to Plexiglas.
"Frosted Extreme Detail (FXD)" is now "Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic". This material is also acrylic.

Same materials, new names.

To echo and emphasize earlier comments, these 3D-printed materials do not behave like injection-molded polystyrene or other resins. Our years of modeling experience can actually work against us when it comes to using 3D-printed materials.

"Versatile Plastic" and "Fine Detail" 3D-printed materials are very different. Their cost is very different, too, and there are several reasons for that. Each of these materials has its own strengths and weaknesses. Here's a brief summary of them:

"Versatile Plastic" (nylon) is generally not suitable for static display models where surface smoothness and detail are important. "Versatile Plastic" nylon is better suited for large-scale Radio Control models where material strength and durability are more important than surface smoothness and detail.
- relatively inexpensive
- strong and water-tight, takes a beating
- surface texture is pebbly
- print layers are relatively thick meaning print lines are very noticeable
- does not sand easily, surfaces are difficult to smooth
- accepts fewer primers and paints, generally only those made specifically for nylon. Few other paints will adhere to it.
- fewer adhesives work with it

In my Shapeways shop (Model Monkey), this material is only offered for very large-scale products intended for Radio Control models (<2% of my 1900+ designs). A warning about this material is included in the product description. Most of my customers are only building static display models so the other 98% of my products are only offered in "Smooth Fine Detail" and/or "Smoothest Fine Detail" acrylic. Nameplates are available in real metals like brass, bronze and silver, too.

"Smooth Fine Detail Plastic" and "Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic" materials are both the same acrylic made from the same printer (the difference between them is how the print resolution is set, giving different layer thicknesses - "Smoothest" has the thinnest layers, just 16 microns). "Fine Detail" acrylic material is best for static display models.
- relatively expensive
- relatively brittle, and therefore unsuitable for radio control
- easily sandable
- cuts easily
- surfaces can be further smoothed, if desired, using an "Air Eraser" without harming detail: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-erase ... 69277.html
- uses a waxy material to support overhanging features during printing. Most, if not all, of the waxy support material is melted away in a low-temperature oven at the factory before it is shipped to the customer
- stubborn waxy bits can be cleaned easily in dish-detergent (Dawn, Fairy, Simple Green, baby shampoo, etc.) and hot water (< 175 degrees F or 79 degrees C)
- accepts many more kinds of paint including popular hobby acrylic paints and enamel paints
- must be exposed to direct sunlight or other UV light source for a few hours by the customer to fully cure the plastic, a must if using enamel paint. This is called "post-curing".
- should be painted soon after post-curing and cleaning to seal the plastic

To prepare or clean acrylic, a good "rule of thumb" to consider: if the cleaning product is known to harm Plexiglas, it is almost certain to harm "Fine Detail Plastic".

Here's a link to detailed descriptions of the various material choices offered by Shapeways: https://www.shapeways.com/materials

Here's a link to some other advice and FAQs as part of my shop's catalog: https://www.model-monkey.com/blank-page

That advice is available in 12 languages (click the flag for language choice). Suggestions for improvements and corrections to translation errors are appreciated.

[Cajuntiger]

Steve,
What is the best way to remove small parts from the base? There are a lot more attachment points on the new resin 3D parts.

Thanks

Scot Chiasson.

[ModelMonkey]

Indeed!

The new resin is more brittle than injection-molded polystyrene and breaks more easily. The attachment points are designed to be smaller than the diameter of the sprue itself, and therefore weakest at the model. But since each model is a bit different, and attachment point locations vary, the answer to your question may be different for different models.

In principle, it is important to try not to stress the model part when cutting through the sprue.

General rules of thumb:
- Be patient. A rushed job is a botched job.
- Use a very sharp cutting tool, one that has a scissors motion like a cuticle clipper. Very sharp, so that you don't have to force the cut. The old saying, "let the tool do the work", applies.
- Try not to twist, push or pull when cutting. Place the tool in a good position to cut nearest the part, not the tray, and gently make the cut so as not to have to move the tool or the model when making the cut.

If you accidentally break a piece off, you can probably re-attach it using CA glue. This material does not bend, so the break itself is not likely to be deformed.

For larger, bulkier parts where there are a lot of difficult-to-reach internal sprues like a big, hollow turret, it may help to do the opposite. Consider making the first cuts nearest the tray, not the model, starting at the outside, working your way around the model, working inwards, in order to cut away the tray. Once the tray is free and clear of the model, then cut the sprues from the model making the cut near the attachment point. Again, try not to twist, pull or push.

Often times with internal supports, they can be broken free with a tweezers and pulled out without damaging the model.

Hope this helps!

For those that may not be aware, Shapeways does not offer the new gray resin material. That material is available directly from me.

[Cajuntiger]

Thanks Steve,

I had no trouble with your larger parts using a razor saw and I've also used sharp nail clippers on some other small parts but like you pointed out, it's those smaller sprues that need patience and the right tool.

Cheers

Scot

[shipclambake]

I've complained to Shapeways about their search engine and got some double talk about user experience lol.

[David Sandifer]

Steve, have you considered doing 1/350 USN WWII radars in resin? I really want SC-2, but also SC, SG, SK, and SK-2. I'm all thumbs when it comes to bending and gluing photo-etch parts from the many PE sets available commercially, so a single piece/simplified resin radar tops my wish list from craftsmen like you.

[ModelMonkey]

Steve, have you considered doing 1/350 USN WWII radars in resin? I really want SC-2, but also SC, SG, SK, and SK-2. I'm all thumbs when it comes to bending and gluing photo-etch parts from the many PE sets available commercially, so a single piece/simplified resin radar tops my wish list from craftsmen like you.

Hi David,

Thanks for the interest and compliments!

Unfortunately, resin radar antennas would be too fragile to survive the 3D printing and cleaning process if printed in 1/350 scale with the tech I own or have access to. Perhaps as 3D printing technology continues to mature, a material of suitable strength and cost, and the technology to print it, will become available.

Thanks again!