The Ship Model Forum

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Cheers guys!

In my opinion CA just works best for all gap filling and PE joining. I've tried putties and it takes forever to cure, shrinks and other problems I really don't like.
With CA it's 1 minute of waiting after aplication and it's ready to be sanded and doesn't shrink much. I already tested some of the seams with just painting a bit of paint with a brush to check it,
everything should be fine. If primer reveals errors they will be dealt with!

I'm at the moment painting the hangar deck so I can join the superstructure to the hull and finish the biggest seams and be done with them. Then some detailing and getting ready to prime and painting.
I'm also in the middle of testing some new ways to shade, or more new ways to cut corners, depending if they work for my liking, or just doing the good ol way. It requires more steps but produces more pleasing effect to my eye.
We'll see.

Ok I think the first side is done for the detailing, atleast for the moment.



Some additional details such as life preservers etc. will be added after painting.

Ok got some stuff.

Joined the superstructure to the hull. First it was glued down with revell contact.
After that all the seams were filled with CA and sanded. A light coat of primer was applied.
Checked some errors and fixed them. After that the strips of styrere was glued just above the seam.
Another coat of primer. Light sanding with 2000 grit.

Starboard side walls also got primer. Everything checked fine!





And the bow!

Looking very nice so far! Can I ask how you sand CA? Is it as simple as sanding it before it completely hardens? Is there a certain window before it hardens too much to sand?

Bill Gormley wrote:Looking very nice so far! Can I ask how you sand CA? Is it as simple as sanding it before it completely hardens? Is there a certain window before it hardens too much to sand?

I use ZAP CA and it sands really easy. I do tend to sand it right after aplication. The longest I've waited is 24h and still being easy to sand. Never waited longer so I can't comment on that.
I mostly use 320 and 400 paper first and finish with 800. After primer 1500 to 2000.

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I think the ZAP ca is made for modelling. It comes in 3 different types: heavy , medium and thin. They all have their purposes and are a great brand to use in my opinion. You can even use a kicker to harden the CA instantly if the gap is actually bigger so it won't shrink at all.
I've never had a problem with not being able to sand it.

Here's a closer shot on the rear part.



There was another PE part added in the rear for the rounded shape.

Really great detail work, and clean.

The monster is primed!

Atleast for now. Rest of the parts will be finished and painted separetly.





And a test shot of the hull painting.



First all the lines are painted in black using a masking tape. First horizontal then vertical.
Then I start to overspray the base color in lightly. Nothing else done at this point.

Should be faster than my normal procedure, also with the ammount of small panels I think you kinda need to do it this way if you want to preserve your sanity!

Less filling, looks great!

Great Work..
I will be using this thread as reference for my USS Doyle FFG-39 I was stationed on her in Mid 80's. Keep the work going.

First paint session, all the horizontal lines were painted using a masking tape as a mask.



Then going through the whole damn thing.

And vertical lines!



And first side finished!



I think I need a break..

Painted the hull red.

First layer with flat red.



2nd a bit more heavier layer of flat red.



Then a 3rd layer using shine red.

Beautiful work. I am building the Reuben James so I will be watching closely.

Base painting complete.

I used Gunze H306 with 50 50 with white for the haze gray.
For the decks engine gray was used. This doesn't really matter as it will recieve a lot of weathering in the end aswell.





I only did 2 pass with the gray. I wanted the panels to be seen just barely if you look closely.

Truly outstanding work there, mate!

I must agree!!