The Ship Model Forum

Hi Guys, To continue, I copied the Faired Lines, these were at 1/96 so I had to enlarge them on my scanner to 1/72 scale, 6 sections in all, giving a hull length of 54 1/2 inch.



















These were then cellotaped together,(glued)






Placed on my plywood and drawn round with a pencil, also all ribs were marked on the board 1-27.









enjoy. ARH

1/72 scale WOWWWW this ship is going to be huge. Good to have you back scratchbuilding ships Ron, I'm hoping to see an IJN subject after this one.

We are not worthy, we are not worthy!

Okay, sitting at the back, flicking ink pellets at the Yanks and putting frog spawn in the ink pots of the French, but otherwise paying rapt attention to the lesson!

Any one caught flicking ink pellets will be brought to the front of the class and made to sand my hull later.



The shape of the hull was drawn on my ply and all rib sections were marked off and numbered.





A close up of the stern section.




All rib sections slots were cut out, 1/2 the distance of the full depth of the hull, also the short keel section was removed,this will be fitted later.




Rib 22 being marked off , carbon paper placed underneath and marked round.



Rib being cut out on my vibro saw.





enjoy, ARH

J. Soca wrote:I'm hoping to see an IJN subject after this one.

I second that!

This is the clearest photo-illustration sequence I have ever seen of this process-

<EXCELLENT>!

That is a neat little saw-I assuem that is an airpipe to blow away the dust so youy can see the line?

My vibrosaw does not have that-and its a pain!

Good to have you back in the saddle!

JIM B

Jim, The air pipe is attached to some sort of little pump , as the cutter goes up and down it puffs out air to clear the saw dust, it does help. Thanks for the post.

I use the tube from a little cheap cylinder vaccum cleaner I have...the end of it taped next to the working area...sucks away almost every speck of sawdust

Great start Ron and I second Jim's comments it's certainly the best presentation for any intro to a model build that I have ever seen any where. However if I may make just one comment don't forget to mention the safety classes, I can see you have a perspex cover over the blade but the glasses I certainly would recommend when machine cutting. As per usual you make the whole process look easy. Look forward to the next instalment.
Dave Wooley

Hi Ron
after being away for a week, this is a most pleasant surprise to find that the Headmaster is back to teach. Im here for today only then off i go again this time for a bit of R&R in a nice quiet and peacefull cottage so i had better put up my hand and ask a question.
You state there are 27 stations but have only cut 15 slots, do you intend to put the rest in or dont you need them at this stage.

Roy

p.s after getting the cane 3 times for bringing my beloved catapult to school i promise to leave it in the loft (yes i still have it) promise

You state there are 27 stations but have only cut 15 slots, do you intend to put the rest in or dont you need them at this stage.

Roy


You are correct Roy, what I should have said was 1 at the bow, 27 at the stern and all even numbers inbetween 2,4,6,8,10, 12, 14 ,16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26.

Hi Dave , You are correct, I dont think that way becuase I have to wear my glasses to see what im doing.

Ron
i take it then that you fill and sand between the even stations, but do you use the odd's as formers to check the curviture as you go?

Roy

No ROY, I am so use to doing hulls I feel for any imperfections when I am doing the plastering, and ajust as necessary.
One can put all the rib sections in to help with the shape.

Plastering hum, so this is a plug for fibre glass again? I am curious, is there a particular criteria that makes you decide if a hull should be plug and fibre glass or plank on frame?

Yes Middle watch, because it will be a working model and the beam will only be 6 3/4 inch I need all the room I can get for the 2 motors and all the electrics, battleships being wider at at least 11 inch it not so critical.

Hi Ron

Are you using 1/4" ply this time ?

cwm wrote:Hi Ron

Are you using 1/4" ply this time ?

Yes it was 1/4 inch plywood, it was what we call an off cut, 8ft x 1ft. cost �2-00 or $4.00.

Hi Guys, After cutting out the half sections, I cut out the middle 3 rib sections 10, 12, 14 and clued them in place, and left them to dry, I am using PVA white glue.






Next , working towards the stern I cut out 16,18,20,22 and glued them in position.





After that all remaining sections were cut out and glued in position, starting in the middle helped to keep the framework upright while gluing in all the remaining ribs




Bow shot.





Stern shot.




enjoy. ARH

Hi Ron I find this method of construction fascinating. It's very different to that I'm familiar with . Although you used this method when building Moffett were did you get the ideas for using plaster in the first place?
Dave Wooley