The Ship Model Forum

Missouri, BB63, back in the 60's had it's teak decks weathered to that gray, not as bad as growing mossy green as in the second photo. Somewhere I have some photos I took back then, but of course they are Black and White. My Alaska has styrene decks, but as she is decked out (so the speak) in deck blue and not bare wood it's OK. Missouri I hand planked. I like the effect but guys doing Bismarck et al. have done better. Hank on his NJ had a custom deck done by Pontos to his specs as their WWII era decks would not be appropriate.

Interesting to observe the various techniques. Ideally we should end up with identical outcomes despite using varying technique, but of course we don't. As with the movies and in theater, a degree of suspension of disbelief and imagination are part of model construction and viewing.

Cheers: Tom

I have changed my shoulder rifle about ports and portholes. I bought a bottle of crystal resin to make them. It's much better.

So I'm going to paint a first coat of the outside white before gluing them, then put them in place, gluing the windows, placing the leds of the lighting and gluing the half hulls, then paint the white finish again by masking the windows with Mascol. Not simple.











Installation of the guy wires of the chimney, and the hoists of the boats. Painted the awnings in another color that I like more.

Little progress today.

White paint.

Installation of port "glazing".

Installation of internal lighting, two leds in series with a resistance of 2.2 kohms, test, it's good.

Gluing of the two half hulls.

Sanding and applying the plaster at the joint.

Painting of the stringers in "Peru" orange.

Black paint of the hull, Revell SM302, the anti-fouling red will be done with Humbrol 132.

I have painted the first coat of the main deck, the forecastle, with Humbrol matt 140 to start with, will come with Humbrol 125 satin and Humbrol matt 160 by small touch.









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Very nice, coaming to life quite well. Especially the midships area around the stack and life boats!

Tom

It seems I have missed the notification for the continuation of this thread,
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That is coming together very well-- the funnel colour looks most appropriate.

I admire your ability, perseverance and tenacity with the purity of the 3-D process.

As your evidently (!!) a very able designer...

I do wonder however if you drew the railings as a relief etched Photo-etch for long term stability.

just a thought-...-- as I had a lot of PE done for the Normandie-- and it was not expensive
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meanhwile....-maximum KUDOS !

- Your conceptual certainty and confidence of the print-the hull in 2 fore/aft halves has worked out very well
the model looks most excellent

best wishes
JIM B

Thanks Tom, Jim.

Yes the railling should be made of PE, but with 5 bars it's very " heavy " anyway, even at scale 1. You can see that the 3 bar railling from the back is much more elegant.

The finish is long, I spent the day painting and placing elements, doing touch-ups with a brush, airbrush . It's very delicate because nothing should be broken, it's very fragile at the end.

I painted the Peru orange band on the lower part of the upper deck bulkhead, masking it was very delicate.

I am waiting for my red Humbrol 132 antifouling . The snow may delay the delivery.

I am waiting for everything to be put in place to varnish the main deck which is a bit shiny at the moment.

I replaced the funnel, the yellow from Vallejo does not match the White star line Buff.

So I made the colour myself, we are getting close to it.

I have finished the front and back guys.

I am still waiting for the red of the bright works, no postman since the beginning of the week... Because of the cold... So I can't glue the upper deck yet, nor put the rigging down.

I started to treat the weathering and light ageing, because the boat was one year old.

We are close to the end of the assembly.

On the left the Vallejo sand yellow, which is not sand yellow. On the right my pre 1920 WSB.

http://www.titanic-cad-plans.com/whitestarbuff.pdf

A lovely jewel! It is a tribute that it looks to be at a larger scale than it actually is. Having built a couple of ships in 1:192, I have some idea of the size of this!

Regards: Tom

Thank you Tom! you have motivated me well to support this proud ship, because I had not planned anything at the base, while it was being carried by its mother ship.

Moreover it allows me to improve my experience of making dry docks for possible future dioramas, I like this subject which I know well. It's not to say that I don't want to make the boat-dock for this one in order to enhance the decor a little more. Just add an element at the end of the dry dock.





I have just finished the Humbrol 132 anti-fouling, I really like this colour, I would probably paint the Titanic to follow in the same shade. I still have a few touch ups to do but very little, it went well.
I simply made it more matt with a varnish.

I will now finally be able to glue the upper deck to the hull, and continue to assemble the rigging, then age it a little to be connected with the hull.

This is the largest structure I have ever printed, two 21.5 elements for a total length of 43 cm. I love this printer!

The Mac has gone through a lot of technical work to calculate all the joint lines of the dry dock stones, a big job. A simple piece to draw in appearance, but not for the machine.

that Dry-dock does really enhance the full hull model!

Most excellent-- your design and 3D printing skills are remarkable!



One of my favourite dry-dock models was this one by Sandro paretti

http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html


oh... and best wishes for a successful union between upper deck and lower hull!

JIM B

Pascal:

Yes indeed the drydock cutaway make for an interesting base. Keel blocks do make for an appropriate base for a ship model Hank Strubb was able to obtain the actual docking plan for creating his base for his BB New Jersey. That's a lot of keel blocks for a large ship. Older dry-docks seem to use the stepped construction and newer ones (maybe 1930 or later) use more vertical concrete walls. Not sure why?

You mention the complexity for the printing process to handle such a large and geometrically complex shape, I even noticed this with something as seemingly simple as a debarkation net, which has a great number of round pieces.

A worthy smaller project and our thanks for sharing it's development with us!

Regards: Tom

Thank you Jim for this link, it will be very helpful to me in trying to get the same thing done, but I don't think I'm getting to that level of perfection. He must have spent a lot of hours painting hundreds of stones with brushes! The colours are superb!



Thank Tom!

I printed both part at the same time, side by side, 10 hours. 4100 layers of 50 micron resin, 0.267 litres of resin (9.35 euros).





The type of caisson of the Hamilton Graving dock at the Nomadic:�























Putting in the propellers, I have the zincs to paint.

As always interesting background photos. I remember being involved in setting a dry dock caisson with a tugboat, which went well till the wind and tide caught it . Nylon hawsers elongate to over 150% , turn black, smoke and scream just before they snap. That's one of the best Caisson photos I have seen. Ours weren't nearly so shapely!

The artistic work coloring the "stone" in the diorama is very impressive. Plaster is very good about taking colors for such efforts.

Thanks for sharing! Looking forward to further work on the AO!

Regards: Tom

Iceman,

Very nice looking - the NOMADIC is certainly taking shape! Also I appreciate the historical info, as well!

Hank

I liked her best with the two stacks, looked more baby Titanic like!

Cheers: Tom

Thank Hank!

Some pictures of the day's progress:

The rigging among others, a mix of lycra infinity and stretched plastic. The upper deck has been glued, a very delicate operation.

I also worked on how to paint the drydock.

Some photos, a little dark, made with another camera much more powerful than the Iphone, I will have to invest in a photo booth...

Iceman 29 wrote:Thank you Tom! you have motivated me well to support this proud ship, because I had not planned anything at the base, while it was being carried by its mother ship.

Moreover it allows me to improve my experience of making dry docks for possible future dioramas, I like this subject which I know well. It's not to say that I don't want to make the boat-dock for this one in order to enhance the decor a little more. Just add an element at the end of the dry dock.


...

Hi Pascal. I love the drydock! I think it�s a great idea for a display. I am currently building my first ever model, a 1/400 Nomadic. And I was wondering if you could share the 3D file of the dock with me?

That's a lot of keel blocks for a large ship. Older dry-docks seem to use the stepped construction and newer ones (maybe 1930 or later) use more vertical concrete walls. Not sure why?

Probably a mix of building capacity, not being able to make such high upstanding concrete walls in history as well as the construction of vessels themselves. Curved hulls were kept upright in dock by wooden beams under an angle, the steps in the dock walls gave a good footing for those beams. Nowadays most vessels apart from warships, have flat bottoms and parallel sides, not requiring such beams.

Great job on this model. I guess the stone effect in the example was created much in the same way as people sometimes recreate wooden decks by painting plastic decks. Base layer of one color over the entire surface and then add 3 or 4 shades on seperate planks/stones.

A dry- or floating dock is indeed a clever way of displaying a full-hull model in a scenic way.

Another option, but more applicable to smaller ships and more common in the age of wooden ships, would be at low-tide on a 'grid', an arrangement of wooden beams found in tidal ports.