The Ship Model Forum

After first sanding and first coat of Enamel primer tonight. Still have to sand with 1000 paper, the primer allows to see better the areas to be rectified.

The second copy of the front part is being printed.

its very... Tres bien !!
JB

Merci Jim pour vos encouragements!

Some pictures to show the atmosphere during a storm on this charming and very beautiful island, whether in good or bad weather. �It has also been witness to many shipwrecks over the centuries. The sea currents are very violent, the winds also, the two can confront each other in a tumult sometimes Dantesque.�



Lighthouse of "la Jument" and the guard Theodore Malgorne, in the storm. Erected on a stone called la Jument, "Ar-Gazec" in breton. Route of Fromveur near the island of Ouessant, Sea of Iroise, west Brittany. The keeper has survived to the wave.

https://youtu.be/AH02UMFTknI


Fromveur Passage, south Ouessant, during a severe storm:

D-646 Latouche-Treville, french frigate, specialized on anti submarine warfare, class F-70 type Georges Leygues, 139 mts long, 4910 tons displacement, crew 240 Part of this footage is also visible on the movie "Oceans" from Jacques Perrin & Jacques Cluzaud.

https://youtu.be/YuIO4Cyni-w


Wrecks around Ouessant:



Clic 2 time to enlarge:

The second front hull is printed, but I'm out of Revell spray primer. On order.

Printing the center element.

Printing of some deck accessories.














During construction at the Chantier de l'Atlantique in Saint Nazaire.

The back of the engine room



The exit of the main condenser can be seen at the bottom right, which I will have to reproduce.

It looks good despite the small scale (1/700) of the pieces.

front winch and windlass, platform fire hose with physical foam:

Pascal,

Quite the ambitious project - and....coming along very nicely!!! I appreciate your posting of the Chitubox layout of your 3D parts - always good to see how others are setting this up for printing.

Hank

Thanks Hank, in the future I'll post more pictures of the layout of the brackets to print, nothing "secret", if it can be people who are just starting out, which you aren't, I'm glad.

It benefits this new form of modeling, without harming the so-called "traditional" method that I also use. What I like is to quickly build anything I can think of and to serve the built model.

I started the drawing of the castle, the two stores bosun/pumpman are drawn.

I also assembled the central part to the front part. I used my car body filler and then sanded.



I'm getting the Revell Enamel spray primer tomorrow from french retailer.

Progress of the day.

Pascal:

Nice progress! Are you going to print life lines at this scale or go PE or some such other avenue? As always good in the printing process to have a couple of spares to ensure against breakage or other printing adventures.

I remember staying near the river in Shanghai (Huang Po) on the Pudong side and looking across the river to a shipyard where they were building a merchant ship by constructing the large modules on shore then lowering them into position in the dry dock. Surprisingly rapid progress!

Regards: Tom

Thank Tom.

I received the Trumpeter railing 1/700 06634. There are some ladder included.

Tiny stuff! I've never had a good relationship with PE though it can be quite clever.

Cheers: Tom

I have no other choice here, Tom!

I'm making good progress on the castle.

Pascal:

Indeed, we use what works best with the understanding that making a miniature is a bit like going to the movies, the viewer to enter this small world and fully appreciate it must suspend a degree of disbelief. It is apparent that you are building your model for printing with appreciation of the scale involved and the limitations of the medium.

Just curious if when sanding your primer if you are wet sanding? I have had good luck with 600 grit wet/dry paper, but I use the heavier automotive sandable primers in a larger scale. I do like the primer to reveal any defects, as you mention.

As always interesting construction!

Regards: Tom

I use 100 grit to sand the biggest defects, the resin dust which is extremely fine quickly clogs the paper. The 100 dry grit is suitable for roughening certain areas of the hull that need it. I recommend wearing a mask.
Then I switch to water-based paper with 600 or 400 grain, then 1000.

Resin sands very well as you already know, it's a very pleasant material to sand, it goes quite fast and the final surface finish of large areas is magnificent for painting.

Pascal:

Thank you for sharing your technique. With wooden hulls I have often skim coated and filled defects with "Bondo" two part auto body filler, which also sands very nicely, very much like the resin with the same issues with the sand paper. I lightly filled and sanded the sides of my LCVP's using a Bondo product called Glazing Putty, similar in application to modeling putty. Used by automotive refinishers to fill minor defects such as pinholes and scratches.

I haven't tried printing any large structures as yet. Interesting to see the adaptations in different scales!

Regards: Tom

Love the photo of the guy smoking a pipe with a NO SMOKING sign in the background !!. Ouch.

He is the master of the ship.�

The ship is not loaded and has never been loaded except with water for its ballast (no double hull at the time), so no worries on that side, the ship is "Gas free��.

Stratos Tsioros Captain Of Oil Tanker 'Olympic Bravery' On The Rocks Off Ushant France:

https://www.shutterstock.com/fr/editori ... e-4728389a

He came back on board to get some items, but I think others had gone before him.