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russclark, do You know this book?:



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HMAS

Hi Russ,

great work. You�re right with the flat hull bottom/Dock keels.

We look forward to watch your build!

Bye!

Hi Russ,

109 asked me about help for a shipmodel-fan - you! So, if I can help...
Very helpful is the Loef-plan of Admiral Scheer (it�s in 1:500 and old [1940], but you can find it on ebay). Another acceptable plan is by vth. I�ve heard about Hans Gally planning to make a new plan of Scheer public?! If you need help, have a look on my site htttp://sophie-caesar.de or contact me. I�m shure I can help you building up Sophie Caesar.
Anyway, SC is a great modeling subject!
Wish you a happy new year!

Bye

Volker

hello guest and bernt,thank you for the link ,it should be very helpful .hello gary 71 i don't know what you the link was but the board moderator called it a pirate site,so it did not show up.no i have not seen this book,it must be printed by pirates

hello all fellow modelers,been working on hull frames.the bow and stern of the center board has a piece of heavy styrene added for the last little bit,this makes it easyer to make the transition to the bow.the frames and center board are slotted ,the frames from the bottom and the center board from the top,this allows the frame to slide in from above.there are 28 hull frames to cut from 1/4"plywood.it is tedious work cutting them,i broke 3 blades ,it is just about impossible the get all 28 frames perfect,if they end up to big just sand them down,if they end up a little small i just glue a piece of styrene the right thickness on which ever side needs to be wider.this is easyer then cutting a new frame,i use plain old white carpenters glue to attach the frames to the center board.before the planking can start the center board has to be fastened to somthing to keep it true,i use a board,make sure it is flat no twist in it.the center board only has to be held steady for a few planks .then it can be taken off to make it easyer to work on.

Hi Russ, your work looks very neat in deed! My work with the scroll saw obviously needs some practice.......

Having nearly finished the bow section on my Slava (1/72 scale) , and having struggled a fair bit, I intend to try the following on my next hull construction:

I will fill the space between the frames making up the fore peak area with a "workable" material, say balsa. This will help keep the frames square, if they need help, during the planking process; (I tend to put my planks under a bit of strain, it seems to help gain the overall shape) and it will also give the planks something to bond to between the frames.

I am looking forward to "watching" you plank your hull and picking up some more tips.


Andrew

Hi Russ you are very fast in the hull mounts..
the work as always very good

i changed the name topic ,i am sure its going to be sheer.to late to turn back now.

Hi Russ Great job on your framing up, particularly the bow section. As Norbert has said you do not waste any time. Question do you add the camber to the deck, later?
Dave Wooley

that is a good question dave.i have been worrying about keeping every thing sqaure and true that adding camber to the frames when cutting them out would have added another detail to try to keep the same on both sides of the frame.the hull is only 6"wide at the widest beam,the amount of deck showing there is very little.what i'm getting at is i don't know if one would even see the camber.haveing said that it would be fairly easy to add,just add differant tickness of styrene strips from bow to stern on the frames,from the center to the edge..i will ponder this.

just a little update.i have fitted balsa blocks in the bow and stern,and planked the hull. the planking stops where at the prop shafts start to pull away from the hull,i will drill a hole in the end and then fit a shaft in then try to fiqure out how to make the rest of it.that will not happen till the the hull is completly faired as it would be hard to sand in behind the strut assembly.next thing to do is mix up some epoxy and coat the entire hull this is not to fill anything it is to glue all the planks to the frames.it makes a gooey mess but this way i know that the planks will not spring.i paint it inside and out..oh first i rough sand any high spots in the planking down.if it ends up i little thin in the odd spot no problum as there will be a layer of fiberglass bondo that goes on, then after that fairing putty.

well the hull is now very strong,after painting it with resin which stuck everything together,i now coated the out side of the hull with bondo which has fiberglass strands in it.one has to be fast here as it sets up in about 10 min..not much time to mix it and apply.it is not easy to spread smothly as you can see ,but all i whan't it to do is fill in all the low spots and sharpe edges,bondo glazing putty is what i will use to fair the hull.once it is set up i sand it with a power sander,it would take forever and a day by hand.the hull is now about 50%wood and 50% resin and bondo glass.next is to fair the hull it takes 3 or 4 apllications of glazing putty to do this ,it takes awhile.i ordered a couple of books ,but after 2 weeks i got a reply saying they are out of print .if anyone has info or pics of the bridge as of 1940-44 it would realy help,i have some, thanks to dave and a web site of volker weischenberg,but the more the merrier.

Hi Russ I stand back in amazement at the short time line for the construction of the hull you will be embarking on the superstructure in no time . I have sent you some pictures of the mast area on Scheer hope they help .
Dave Wooley
Keep up the outstanding work

Nice work Russ.

I can see the correct bow technique for my Kirov now


Andrew

thank you for the pics dave,every thing helps.i thought the shafts came straight out ,but i see they angle down a bit. hi andrew i hope things are starting to dry out down under.bernd if one looks at the last pic you can see where the dock keels are they are not as pronounced as on the bismark i think.hopefully they will show up better as i fair the hull.

hello all, been fairing the hull for the last few days,the sheer has a nice long slim hull compared to a battleship.this hull is comeing along very well.the bondo glass used to for the first layer is hard to sand.tough to get it realy smoth ,the bondo putty i use to make it dimple free, sands easy i do it by hand ,but it still makes a lot of dust.the first two applications go one realy thick,sanding removes most of it.after that two or three more applications but only to the low spots.it is realy hard to see imperfections as the applictions move along.the last go at it is just little dabs here and there.i must have got the bow right ,i am very pleased with the way it ended up.heres a few pics

Hi Russ that is a superb job . Question will you be painting the hull first then start on the superstructure .Also what type of paint will you be using for the hull ? This is developing in to a classic scratch build .
Dave Wooley

hi there dave,a few more main things on the hull ,prop shaft tubes and struts the armor belt and some kind of plating or plating lines.the prop tube is going to be challenging , i have a idea but i am going to make sure it looks o.k before i show it.on this hull i would like to add water pickups and a few other thru hull type fittings.there are also a millon port holes .very repetative work.i think i will put them in after priming ,but before the finish paint.i will put the deck on before i start the superstructure so i can pre fit everthing were it belongs.

russclark wrote:hello all, been fairing the hull for the last few days,the sheer has a nice long slim hull compared to a battleship.this hull is comeing along very well.the bondo glass used to for the first layer is hard to sand.tough to get it realy smoth ,the bondo putty i use to make it dimple free, sands easy i do it by hand ,but it still makes a lot of dust.the first two applications go one realy thick,sanding removes most of it.after that two or three more applications but only to the low spots.it is realy hard to see imperfections as the applictions move along.the last go at it is just little dabs here and there.i must have got the bow right ,i am very pleased with the way it ended up.heres a few pics

Hi Russ,

I hear what you say about sanding, I have a day off work today, Australia Day, guess what I will be doing..........sanding

As DW says, your hull is looking mighty fine.

Keep up the good work.

Andrew

andrew it is simply amazing,how many times of filling and sanding it takes to get the hull fair.I am constructing the prop shaft tubes.I am a bit of a scronger when it comes to finding differant fittings and stuff, there is very little photo-etch or accesories in 1/144 .i spend a lot of time looking for things that look like the part i want to build,craft shops,dollar stores and the such.the prop shafts where right under my nose,ball point pens.i found two in the stash of pens that where out of ink,that matched up darn close to the real things,all i had to do was flaten one side to match the hull,redrill the hole to my shaft size and ,'bobs your uncle' it looked pretty good.i have two sets of plans but not one of them has the armor belt shown or plating,one shows it so high up that it covers the lower line of port holes.i know this is wrong,i have some pics showing the stern area ,but not the bow.i can fiqure out the length of it but the depth eludes me.any input on this would be very helpful.