The Ship Model Forum

Its looking great

Starting some of the modifications for the 20mm decks needed. The first picture is a before and after comparison of removing the previous gun tubs. The second picture is showing the bulkhead that will be underneath the deck to show what it will match up to.

The third picture is merely me being tired of prepping parts and wanting to actually put something together that did not involve tweezers or bending something. My wife commented,"At last. It is looking less like a pile of parts and more like something remotely resembling a ship.".

I finished painting the upper hull in M22. The pictures are a little fuzzy buy you will get the idea. I also attached the main decks. The last picture is one of the two 40mm mounts fully painted. Both are complete now.

As always, feedback is welcomed.

I now have the majority of the deck levels painted and attached. With only the bridge sections left on those.

What I have here is still in need of some touch up painting, but I wanted to share the current level of the build. The last picture shows the most clearly the scratch built 20mm gun decks that have been attached. The splinter shields will be done out of styrene. I was not overly happy with the fit, but I am hoping to hide that. As always comments and suggestions are welcome.

Been a bit since I have had an update. But after spending the weekend working on her, here is what I have to show now.

Comments welcomed!

Part two:

After all the progress made over the weekend I decided that the bridge needs to be the next part that is put together and attached to the ship.

Then I hit a brick wall. The bridge I am using is the square bridge modification from Admiralty. There is this cable (electric I think) that goes around the lowest section of the bridge. The part is photo etch and really thin. I can not for the life of me get this thing to stay glues to the ship. If anyone has any suggestions I am all ears!

What type of glue are you using, Gabriel? Plastic cement won't work; super glue (CA) will work. CA is need for resin to resin or metal to metal and works or plastic to resin or plastic to metal.

Forgive me if you know this already and are still having problems.

The Endicott is looking good!

This is a case of metal to resin. I am using super glue. It is the scotch super glue gel. It works well on everything else I have put together. It is more that I cannot seem to get this wire to agree with me.

Thanks for the quick reply though. If you have any other ideas I am more than willing to try them.

Also thank you for the compliments on my build!

Gabriel

Gabriel,

One little nit. ENDICOTT would have used the rack storage method for the K-Gun depth charge reload system not the earlier pedestal and crane system that comes with the DML kit. I don't know if it is worth trying to take it off at this point and redo it, it is up to you.

Otherwise you are doing great.

Hey Rick,

I noticed that after I did the work. So I am not too happy about that point. The debate is raging in my head as to what I should do.

Thanks for the observation though. Had I not noticed it already it would be very beneficial to me.

And thank you for the compliment.

Gabriel

Hey Rick (or anyone else),

Do you have any good pictures of the deck for the single 20mm in front of the bridge?

I am going to redo the K-guns with the racks. So if there are any good shots of those that any one has. I am mainly wanting to see the positioning difference from port to starboard. Also, I do not see any cranes where the racks are. Did they not use them?

Thanks again guys!

Gabriel,

I have thought of doing a Square-Bridge GLEAVES class conversion myself using this resin set. But, I was reluctant to purchase the set until I actually saw one installed ... I'm kind of queazy about spending money on resin update sets after seeing the problems people had with the Nautilus 1/144 scale FLETCHER Square-bridge set. So, I'm really glad you are building this model and sharing with us.

To answer your K-Gun reload racks question first. No a crane wasn't needed, that was the idea of the reload racks. A reload depth charge could be "simply" slid over for loading unto the K-Gun. I think they left a "socket" for a removable crane at each K-Gun station so the could use the crane to restock the racks. But, they only needed one crane per side for all three K-Guns and then could store it. The third image below of the starboard side and the one I posted above covers both side of ENDICOTT showing the K-Gun layout.

I have added a couple of views of the centerline elevated 20-mm platform on ENDICOTT and a sister. This shows the opening on the portside and the extension on the starboard side for the ready service ammo box.

Super glue doesn't like to stick to itself so the cured glue needs to be removed before trying to re-glue it on.

I bet that you knew this already, too, didn't you. That's all that I can think of Gabriel.

NukeMM wrote:Super glue doesn't like to stick to itself so the cured glue needs to be removed before trying to re-glue it on.

I bet that you knew this already, too, didn't you. That's all that I can think of Gabriel.

No I did not actually. So now I feel stupid . But that will definitely help me I hope.

And thank you for the above pictures. That is highly useful! Yet again Rick and Carl, you are a gentlemen and scholars.

Gabriel, have you tried white glue? A lot of people use it with PE as opposed to super glue (CA). I have never really mastered the technique, but many swear by it. I understand that the best thing to do is to cut the white glue about 50/50 with water, then brush the mixture on both surfaces to be stuck together. You can remove the excess with a moistened paint brush. Its much more forgiving than CA, which tends to be a one shot proposition. If the part falls off, or if you misplace the PE and are fortunate enough to be able to pry it off with debonder and the deft use and sharp blade, you still have to scrape off the old, dried CA before a new layer will adhere. A product called Gator Glue is a type of white glue widely used for PE.

I'm impressed with your efforts on the Endicott. Scratch building is not my strong suit by any stretch of the imagination and I take knife to styrene only with great dread and trepidation. I'd be more than proud to say I build that!

Bob

robertmelvin wrote: I'm impressed with your efforts on the Endicott. Scratch building is not my strong suit by any stretch of the imagination and I take knife to styrene only with great dread and trepidation. I'd be more than proud to say I build that!

Bob

Just for clarification, I am only scratch building the forward and aft 20mm decks. Everything else is kit or aftermarket parts. I am not brave enough to scratch build anything other than minor modifications. At least not until I start the major surgery know as the Trumpeter CV-8 hull.

I am currently raiding the kids' art supplies for their Elmer's. Thanks for the tip.

Gabriel, you're very welcome. I hope it works for you. Like I said, I've never quite mastered the technique, but there are plenty that swear by it. BTW, remember that it takes about 15 min for the white glue to really start to set up, though it should stick at once. Give it some time before you handle the ship too much.

Bob

No new photos to post as of yet. But progress has been made. I have the bridge largely completed. Only some PE and the railings and the forward deck for the 20mm to scratch build.

I did remove all of the older version of the K-Guns.

And the mast is being assembled now. I will be starting to do the PE on it tonight.

The display case is also ready to go except the name plate.

Does anyone have any suggestions for what to use for rigging in this scale? I have some beading wire of a few different scales, but was not sure how that would work.

For rigging, there's stretched sprue (Jim B has a great tutorial in the Tips & Tricks) or UNI-Caenis fly-tying line. I go with the latter since it's a more consistent thickness. Attach with white or super glue. Both can be tightened with heat.