The Ship Model Forum

Really really instructive photos Ron-- could not be any clearer!!

wet brush is good tip--duh!!--that how our plaster got a nice smooth finish on the ceiling and walls.

My only concern in the whole excercise would be ....

Is there not a way in which your fine Iron Duke can be protected from dust/ new modelling project debris/flying matter...?

Perhaps hang a polythene screen from the ceiling-that way avoiding any potential damage to rig....

This is coming of course from a dust/glass case prima dona..!!

ID makes a nice back-drop for the in-progress photos though!!

Great stuff!

Cheers

JIM BAUMANN

Hi Guys, As you can see I am getting there with the shape, just a little more work to be done on this side of the hull. This bow shot shows the nice lines of the Porter hull, when dry I will turn it round and finish off the starboard side. enjoy, ARH

Hi Guys I have turned the plug around and nearly finished off this side. Viewed from the stern, still a little work to be done in this section. This is the deck layout, just trying it for fit, everything lines up nicely The stern section, a little work to be done here. The stern section needed to be made a little rounder on the outer edges, which I have corrected.
enjoy, ARH

Dave Wooley wrote:Morning Ron what was the consistency of mix for the plaster? and the type /shape of tool used in its application . A really effective method.
Dave Wooley

The mix of plaster is semi stiff, just a little thicker than ice cream.

The trowel is called a Gauging trowel, it has one end with a round section on, its better for this type of work.

Hi Ron Now I see how it's done!
Dave Wooley

I have turned the plug upside down to tidy up a few sections. The yellow section I have drawn in will be added to the hull when the fibre paste is being applied, this is the end of the Keel. enjoy, ARH

Hi Guys, I have covered the PLUG with a tin foil, I first painted PVA glue to the plug and then laid the foil on top and smoothed it out. The idea of this is to stop the resin sticking to the plug, it will come away and be stuck to the new hull, leaving me the plug if I want to cast another one.

Starboard side Bow Starboard side Stern This is the Port side, looking from the Bow. Now I am ready to mould the Hull.

enjoy, ARH

Hi Guys, This is the material I am using to cover the plug, also a paint brush and a pair of scissors, there should be a catalyst to add to the resin and a tin to mix it up in.
The matting was cut over size and taped on to the opposite side of the hull to hold it in place, bow section. Same again on the stern section, always give it a good overlap on any joins. On any awkward sections like round the stern, just cut the matting at intervals with the scissors and let it overlap each other, the same goes for along the hull. enjoy, ARH

Hi Guys, The resin was mixed, 1/2 a tin and the small amount of catylist was added, the first coat was applied over the matting with a brush, dabbing the resin into the matting.

Bow shot, Port side Stern shot, Port side. Over all view of Hull. Bow trimmed to deck level. Stern trimmed to deck level. enjoy, ARH

I can smell it! Cracking stuff!

Hi Guys, As you can see the hull is off the plug, this was no easy task, because the hull is very narrow mainly at the bow, I had to cut down the bow with a blade to open it up to be able to release it. At this stage you can repair the bow by adding some more tissue and resin. Note we still have the plug intact, also the tin foil is stuck to the hull and not the plug, this can be peeled off and sand papered. The bow after clean up. The stern after clean up. I weighed the hull and it came out at 1lb, that is a big weight saving.

I am now placing the hull back over the plug ready for the next stage, the filler paste. enjoy, ARH

Hi Guys, This is the filler I use on top of the matting. Use it in small amounts, add the small amount of hardener, mix it well in. I work on one side at a time, spread a very thin coat over the hull, leave to set, then give it a quick sanding with rough sand paper. Bow shot. After sanding, give it another thin coat and leave to harden. Then sand with a slightly finer grade of sand paper, we will be adding another coat later. enjoy, ARH

Hi Guys, A second thin coat applied. A Bow shot. You can see the hull beginning to get a better shape and getting stronger. The keel section put in with filler holding it firmly in place. A shot from the bow, beginning to take shape. Both sides have had 2 coats and the bow shape looks better. enjoy. ARH.

Hi Guys, As you can see the very thin layers and the sanding is beginning to show in some nice lines of the hull. From the stern, still needs a little sanding. A nice stern view. The bow is looking better now, after it was cut down the middle. Cross members fitted. I have started to put in the hull strengtheners. First I cut the cross sections and then I added the camber of the deck. These sections were filler pasted in position first, then I added the side pieces, again these had filler paste applied to them and fixed in place. In the photo above you can see the filler on the far side timbers have not been sanded. The last photo shows both sides fitted and sanded. The hull is now getting even stronger. Enjoy, ARH

Hi Guys, When doing the side sections I usually do 2 at a time, I brace them to the side with a thin piece of plywood. When set you can take out the ply and sand the filler to clean up the joints. On the stern I used a piece of 1/4 inch plywood, marked and cut to shape. As you can see, with all this work we have increased the weight to 2lbs At the Bow I did the same as the stern, cut from one piece of plywood. A view from the Bow, all sections fitted and ready for the deck. Midships view. A view from the stern, looking better each day. What you have to remember is at this stage every thing looks a little rough, as we go on things begin to get tided up a bit more. enjoy, ARH

Hi Guys, This is the last post on the build for a week or so, I'm away on my holidays,

I have been doing a little more tidying up of the model, I painted the inside of the hull light grey, 2 coats, it should be hard and dry for when I get back. All the timber was painted except the top surface, this was left, it will accept the glue for the deck better. Both sides of the hull had a small amount of filler applied, to tidy up the shape. The surface now is good enough to accept the Litho plating. A perfect finish is not required, slightly rough and the glue will adhere better. Another under stern shot, will look better when the rudder and shafts are in place. enjoy, ARH

Hi Guys, continuing on, I am fitting the rudder post and rudder.

Drilling a hole though the hull large enough to accept the sleeve that will be fibre glassed in to the stern of the hull. On a ship with a single rudder it is usually on the centre line. I have now cut 4 sections of plywood, and filed my brass rod with 2 flat sections. I have glued the sections together with Epoxy glue, laying the first section down then placing the rod just off centre with the flat downwards, then I glued the 2 side sections and then added the last top section, clamping all 4 corners till it was set. Rudder sanded to shape and fit in place. The shaft was cut to size and filed with a flat section, then a brass boss was fitted and tightened with a Allen key to prevent the rudder from falling out. The arm to turn the rudder has still to be fitted. enjoy, ARH

Thanks Guys for the above.

I have got to the point were I need to put on the decks, I will have to fit the shafts though the openings at a later date. One of my prop shafts is delayed due to short supply.

The first thing is to cut out the deck in 1/16 ply, and then put PVA glue on all sections around and across the hull. The deck was laid on and nailed down. Second picture from a different angle. The rear deck was cut out and laid on to check for size, at this point I was going to leave the deck off so I could put in the shafts easier, but something happened, Another view. I cut out all the openings and left a weight on top of the hull, it had 2 wedges under to stop any movement. I then went in for my tea. I had left the shed door open because no one ever comes round the back of the house.

An hour later I came back to find the hull on the floor with 2 large cracks in it, the deck on the floor and the weight, I think a CAT had tried to climb on to the work bench and brought the whole lot crashing down. The weight must have done the damage, so I had to repair the hull and fix the deck in position to give it the added strength. enjoy, ARH

Hi Guys, All the openings are cut out and the deck nailed and glued down. Stern view Bow view A close up of the hull, I have filled in between the deck and the hull side with filler paste and sanded to shape. A close up of the stern, same procedure. The deck edging has been cut from 2mm thick European lime wood, it overhangs the side of the hull. It was glued and nailed in place. You may notice I have put in some between the deck superstructure. Starboard side bow combing ready to be fitted in place. Starboard side fitted, Port side cut to shape. Both sides fitted, you can see the size of the nails I am using compared to the size of the paint can. enjoy, ARH

Hi Guys, I'm starting the plating of the hull, I will be doing this in Litho plate.
I cut the litho in to strips, and then in to individual plates, they are stuck on using contact adhesive. The first thing to do is mark off the hull where the plates are going.

First row applied, when glued down leave for a short while, then with a soft cloth rub them down to make sure they are well secure. Stern view. This shot you can see the nice lines of the Porter Class. The top two rows of plates are very narrow, I have applied the glue ready to take the plates. Plates quickly applied, not yet rubbed down. First 3 rows applied and rubbed down. Then lightly sanded with a very light grade sand paper. Five plates cut ready for the start of the next row, note the shape of the first plate, this is so it bends round the stern. Glue ready for next row of plates. A nice close up of Bow section. enjoy, ARH