The Ship Model Forum

Hey Kevin,
Well as for the Lindberg kit, I have seen some OOB builds that have been converted to RC they look ok and you can have a lot of fun with them down at the local pond. I love the size and mine is going to spend a lot of time on the water and it should look great at the same time. Although, like I said I can't make up for the shape of the hull, but everything from the deck up will look nothing like the kit when I'm finished.

The 1/144th scale Revell Fletcher is a much better representation of the real thing. I like the fact that it's the round bridge type. I have read that this kit has a few inaccuracies as well, but then again so do a lot of other kits. I have even seen this kit converted to RC and it does ok but it's only safe to use on wind free days due to the size. Even the 1/125th scale kit I'm building would have trouble on a windy day.

I think you have the best of both worlds; you could build the Lindy for play and the Revell for show. Either way I would build the both of them if I were you and I would add as much detail to the both of them and you'll be glad you did!!!

Roger DD-555

Hey Bill,
Rick Davis posted two photos of the area near the mast. I knew that you were correct about this misgiving with the Lindy Fletcher. I also checked out the deck plans for DD-502 that CliffyB gave me a link to at <http://www.hnsa.org/doc/plans/dd502.pdf>. I have found a lot of great info at that site and it's free. They also have DD-450 deck plans as well and quite a few other ships and subs from the US navy. I would advise anyone to check out this site, but don't use the link go to the site and use the search button and search for deck plans DD-502. The link is locked and it's like a spam trap, they want you to do surveys to gain access to the site that is other wise free to everyone.

Roger DD-555

Bill, I noticed in one of your posts above you said that among the tools you used the most was a selection of X-Acto knives. Have you tried surgical scalpels? I'd highly suggest them. No. 10 and No. 11 surgical blades are much like the similar X-Acto numbered blades, but much sharper and keep their edge better. You can get 100 for around $10.00 if you shop around. If you are interested, PM me and I can give you the link for the supplier I use to get my surgical blades and handles.

Bob

Hello Bob,

I think that Roger made the comment about the X-Acto knives, but I too would like to know more about sources for surgical scalpels if you would like to PM me also with further information about them. Thank you for your time and consideration.

Cheers,

Bill

Hi Everyone,
I went to this site<http://www.hnsa.org/doc/plans/dd502.pdf> and down loaded the plans for USS Sigsbee DD-502. The Sigsbee is a round bridge Fletcher, and that's what I plan to do after I finish the Haggard. I would like to build the USS Bennett DD-473 after she received her kamikaze up grade near the end of WWII. At first I was thinking to modify another Lindberg kit to save money, but I have decided to build her in 1/96 scale because all the fittings are available. I know it's going to cost a bit and it will probably take a while, but in the end I'll really have something to show off. It will also be RC'ed and be on picket duty down at the local pond.

I would advise everyone to go and download the plans they are FREE!!! and you never know you just might use them someday.

Roger DD-555

Hey Roger, go look at the other plans available at the same place. You'll be busy for years to come scratch building all of them

http://www.hnsa.org/doc/plans/index.htm

They periodically update the list with new plans but don't make any announcements so check it occasionally and you'll find new goodies.

Hi Cliffy B,
I printed the complete set of plans for the Sigsbee. The plans are drawn in 1/96 scale, but between scanning into adobe acrobat and printing the plans are enlarged a little bit. When measuring the scale at the bottom of the page each foot should be 1/8th of an inch, but it is about 0.220 thousandths of an inch. This complicates scaling from them a little but not that much. There is so much detail in this plan set, I wish it had more section drawings of the hull, if it did a hull could easily be made by using the wooden rib method as used by many builders.

I still highly recommend everyone to download these plans before they are taken off the internet.

Roger DD-555

Hey Everyone,
I got my props in from Gordon Briggs today and they look great Gordon has a very fast turn around time. I sent him a USPS postal money order and counting the day I sent my pament I had the props in less than two weeks. Check out his props for sale at Warship models underway at this link. http://www.wmunderway.8m.com/cgi/yabb2/ ... 1210049946
They cost $20 for the pair and $5 shipping and handling. He can make props as big as 1/48 scale to 1/125th and possibly smaller. Gordon can be contacted at:huk_king_dd446@yahoo.com. Mention that you saw his props on my build, I�m not getting anything from it, but I told him I was going to give him a plug and possibly send him some business. Gordon is a guy like the rest of us he�s selling props to support his hobby.

Most of you guys build in the 1/350 to 1/1200 scale and you can buy after market brass props for many of them, Gordon�s props are more geared to RC controlled model ships. He can make then to fit what ever you�re using for a prop shaft. My shafts are threaded M3 x 0.5, and the props he made for me fit perfectly. I need to trim the threaded section as can be seen in the photos. Check out the props that come with the kit compared to what I�m going to use. Also if you want to see a very detailed build you just have to check out Gordon�s 1/48 scale USS Radford DD-446 at this link http://www.wmunderway.8m.com/cgi/yabb2/ ... 1210826697. Gordon served on the Radford sometime after WWII, possibly in Korea, I�m not sure.

And this link describes how his 1/125th Lindberg Blue Devil was sunk and recovered, it�s an amazing story and the pictures are awesome as well http://www.wmunderway.8m.com/cgi/yabb2/ ... 1208666449

DD-555

Here's where I am so far. More plastic surgery going on, it never ends. This picture shows how I patched up where the mast was supposed to be and moving it to it's correct position I patched up the deck where I changed the mid ship compartment. Also the 20mm mount has to be removed and moved back a little, that will be my next rework. Also I�m not ready to build the depth charge racks yet, but I�m going to bend up one from the PE to compare it to the kit part. I guarantee that you will be surprised with the difference. Check back soon for the photo�s.

DD-555

Hi Everyone,
Here's my next installment. I built one of the Tom�s K-gun depth charge racks and the kit part for a comparison. As you will see I didn't spend anytime to make the kit part look good because they are not going to be used. Just imagine how much time it would take to fix six of them and the two rool off racks as well. Drdoom1337 asked how it is to work with the large scale PE. Well, all I can say is that these parts are very delicate. I think the PE you guys use on the small scale ships is much harder to work with due to the size and my hats off to you. I personally don�t like to work under a magnifying glass very often. The two large rectangles are shelves, the tabs are very small and the frame of the shelf becomes distorted if you look at it cross-eyed. The instruction say to bend the tabs to aid in construction. I had to hold the frames with a pair of smooth jaw pliers and make sure only the tab was sticking out while bending the tab or the edge of the shelf was bent as well. This is how the K-gun from the kit looks, it needs some work but they are usable. After building this first rack I have decided that I prefer to paint it and place the depth charges in the rack from the bottom then install the shelves last. I think it would be more difficult trying to add the depth charges afterward, but that�s just my opinion. The instructions show that the racks for port and starboard are made by carefully bending them so you end up with right and left hand racks. The small frame is an end piece and it became distorted as you can see just from cutting it from the PE of depth charge frame as can be seen in the pictures. Luckily Tom�s PE set has an extra one of these depth charge racks and there are some extras of some of the other small parts to give you a second chance. Although the bigger parts are a one shot deal, get it right the first time or buy another set.

Now let's take a look at the mast and the very poor looking radar screen provided by the kit and the one from Tom's PE set.Tom's set comes with many different radar screens, but the SC-2 is the one I need.When I'm finished with this you will be amazed how much it adds to the kit. This mast is so ugly who would want it on their build? DD-555

Hi Everyone,
I made a mistake when I previously posted Gordon Briggs E-mail address. Anyone interested in his props can contact him at
huk_king_dd446@yahoo.com. I also corrected the mistake in the above post with the images of the 1/125th scale props I got for my build.

Roger DD-555

Well as we all know the Fletcher�s received many Mods during their service. I call this the Lindberg RC Mod. Lindberg decided that the entire deck must be removed to replace batteries and perform any required maintenance. Since I want to add a lot of detail such as PE and safety rails at the decks edge I decided to glue the deck to the hull and create a removable section to access the running gear inside. I plan on using 5/16 plastruct I Beam to stiffen the section, with a shim under the 5/16 beam it will contact the cross braces inside the hull making the removable section very strong. This method is used on almost every RC boat on the market today. I have a 1/24th scale Pro Boat PT-109. Pro boat uses magnets to hold on the removable deck section on their PT boat, and I am going to try magnets on my Lindy Fletcher. If the magnets don�t work for me I will screw the section down with a few small flat head screws. Anyway that�s the current plan in the shipyard at the moment.

Here are a few more photos showing the holes I need to patch up and where I'm at as of today.[/b]

Here's a couple more pics, they would not fit in my last post. Notice all the hloes in the fan tail that need to be filled as well. In the next week I hope to have all my drive line equipment installed in the hull for testing before I glue the deck on.

Well back to the shipyard my boss is a real slave driver!!!!! [/b]

First, the stuffing tube support needed to be drilled out to fit the brass tubing from K&S. Then I cut the tube to length and I polished the I.D. so the prop shafts freely rotate. As you can see in the photo I need to enlarge the slot in the hull so the stuffing tubes are parallel and then I will be able to construct the motor mount. I placed the motors, the ESC and the battery box in the hull and positioned the deck in place to better show that I will easily be able to change the battery and perform any maintenance or repairs as needed. I started to make the motor mount. It need a few braces and then I will be able to glue the stuffing tube in place and patch up the hull around it. That's it for today, lots more to come. [/b]

The motor mount is finished and glued in place. The stuffing tubes and supports are mounted and glued in place. The threaded portion of the prop shafts has been shortened and the props are mounted as well. All in a good days work. I need to patch up the hull around the stuffing tubes and I want to put a few braces on the tube support like the real Fletcher had to strengthen it after drilling it out for the stuffing tube to fit. After that I can mount the ESC and the battery box and do the wiring. Then I can do a floating test and add weights if needed to be level. When the model is completed I will have to do this again and make sure it is at the proper water line and is level.

Hey Everyone,
Please feel free to comment on my build, I welcome constructive criticism as well, and your thoughts may give me new ideas or something to think about!!!!

Thanks

The hull is patched up and is water tight. After the epoxy is completely dry I'll sand it and it will look fine. I also added a couple braces and my set up is very strong I'm happy that it went together so good. It�s not exactly like the real thing, but after all this is a Lindberg Fletcher I�m building. Now I can hook up the battery and ESC then do a little testing.

DD-555

After looking at my own photos I noticed the props were on the wrong side and I have corrected my mistake!!!!!!!!

Reply function works fine for me. Nice job on what could charitably be called a toddler's toy of a kit! Having done the same with the old Nichimo 1/200 Yamato, I can sympathize with the undertaking!