The Ship Model Forum

Printing again of the stack but in two pieces, it's even better, for the de-grappling and the painting.

Printing also a lot of small parts, and the protective railings, but which are also used to store life jackets and not hammocks as said above.

The spiral staircases are very well done, very fragile. The more classic ladders too are nice.



Reprint of the bridge with the railings, but in two parts.














Up:



The famous railings:

Pascal,

What resin are you using? I know there was a discussion about resins a year or two ago, perhaps not in this thread.

I recently tried to print some 3D snowflake Christmas tree ornaments. Even though the thinnest parts were 2mm (0.079 inch), which is a LOT thicker than many of the things I have printed, they are so fragile that simply handling them will break off parts!

I need a resin that it more flexible when cured.

DrPR wrote:Pascal,

What resin are you using? I know there was a discussion about resins a year or two ago, perhaps not in this thread.

I recently tried to print some 3D snowflake Christmas tree ornaments. Even though the thinnest parts were 2mm (0.079 inch), which is a LOT thicker than many of the things I have printed, they are so fragile that simply handling them will break off parts!

I need a resin that it more flexible when cured.

im curious about it too.
I think modellers use ABS like resin. I use water washable which is quite fragile. It also takes more time to get hard and maybe not as strong as the regular resin.
However it has almost not smell and it really goes away easily with water even when drip on clothes, i have saved several pants. I think i will stick to this until a more elastic water based resin appears on the market.

I use the Elegoo standard grey, nice resin. Not too expensive.

https://www.elegoo.com/en-fr/collection ... dard-resin

I have used Anycubic Basic Gray, Anycubic EC Gray and phrozen Rapid Black.

I think I have gotten the best results from the Basic Gray, but it really stinks and needs alcohol (95% ethanol) for the wash. I experimented a lot with this and can get prints that are within a percent or two of the proper dimensions and with very little or no "jaggies" on the surfaces.

The EC Gray is plant based and has almost no odor. It is also alcohol washable. It is very brittle and I am seeing parts break off as I try to remove the supports.

The Rapid Black is water washable and has a slight odor. It is extremely brittle and breaks easily. I get pretty good surfaces with it.

Phil

DrPR wrote:I have used Anycubic Basic Gray, Anycubic EC Gray and phrozen Rapid Black.



The EC Gray is plant based and has almost no odor. It is also alcohol washable. It is very brittle and I am seeing parts break off as I try to remove the supports.


Phil

i really dont get this bio thing.
Since its brittle but still requires IP for cleaning why someone would use it instead of water washable?

Mike,

Good question.

I am experimenting with different resins to find one that is suitable for me. So far no luck!

Actually I find the ethanol wash preferable to water wash because I end up with a lot of water that cannot be flushed down the drain - uncured resin is toxic to some creatures in waterways. So I end up putting the waste water out in sunlight for a week or so to cure the resins before disposing of it, and this is a nuisance. And since we might not see the sun from November to May where i live, I end up with gallons of dirty water.

The alcohol (95% denatured ethanol fuel is cheaper than 95% isopropyl alcohol) wash has the same contamination problem, but in much smaller volumes. In sunlight the resin cures into a fluffy solid in a day or two. Or I can put a glass jar containing the alcohol in my UV exposure chamber and cure it in a few minutes. The cured resin can be filtered out (coffee filters) and disposed of, and the alcohol can be reused.

The "ECO" plant based resin has little or no odor. The other two resins have strong odors (the Basic Gray is awful) so I have to keep the printer out of the occupied part of the house (in the closed off laundry room) and still I can smell the resin throughout the place. The furnace doesn't heat the laundry room so I have a problem keeping the room warm enough in winter.

I think the Basic Grey resin is probably better than the ECO resin, but the odor prevents me from using it in winter time when I do most of my model work.

I am still searching for an odorless resin that will produce fine detail with correct dimensions and is not as brittle as the other resins. If anyone knows of such a product I would like to know.

Phil

Printing the front mast in two pieces.

I reinforced them with piano wire inside.

I have a few minor repairs on the rail, not easy to de-grapple.

Indeed the masts work quite well hollow with piano wire, it's rather amazing how thin walled the mast sections can be printed as long as one keeps the passages clear before the bubbles and whatnot harden.

Those masts look good! Always useful for the rest of us to see how you arranged your supports, a critical part of printing!

Best regards! Tom

Yes-- metal inside plastic / resin works--I normall use all metal mats...

but this is Most impressive

I very much like the clean. neat and straight 'stand-offs ' on the aft face of mast ladder....

very nice!.

the damaged rail section-

that centre part could be fixed quite easily using stretched sprue
without breaking the radiused ends

use this methodology for successful invisible bonding of butt ends...
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37536

hope it helps

Bon Noel

JB

Tks Tom, and Jim ( for the advice, too ).

I printed a new mast.

Painted the turrets, anthracite grey matt N�9 Revell and medium blue grey matt 144 Humbrol.

I like it.

Pascal:

Sorry to topic diverge, but looking at the Elgoo (and other ) resins the rinsing is not mentioned. Is your Standard Gray an alcohol only wash?

Cheers: Tom

I think only alcohol can be used, Tom.

Thank you Pascal!

Best Christmas wishes! Tom

You too!

Some pictures of the progress of the painting.

I used Humbrol 144 matt for the hull and superstructure.

Humbrol 96 matt for the steel decks.

Revell 37 matt for the linoleum decks.

Shading with N�9 matt Revell anthracite. Turret also with N�9, chimney top with Revell matt black n�8. The straps are a little lighter with a mixture of Humbrol 9 and H 144 grey.

For the hull, first layers with Humbrol 37 matte green, then SM364 Revell green.

I still have to work on the hull which is too light for my taste to get as close as possible to the "Vert de Paris", I have to add some shading around the sheet metal plates before reinforcing the SM364 green to darken it slightly. But for now the effect is the right one, I don't want a uniform hull colour.

All this in anticipation of the ageing of the whole.

Nothing is glued yet.



















The problem was that the Humbrol 37 green doesn't cover anything, it's water, first time I used it, I used up 1 and a half pots for the coat. �

The SM364 green covers well, so that'll do it, but then my shading took a hit, so I'm going to redo it, then 364 again, then a coat of clear matt after aging to immortalize it.

The red surface corrosion protection strip is painted with Humbrol matt 60 which I mixed a bit.

I printed out work supports for the hull to avoid damaging the paint, they are aimed at the place of the supports of the final display. Practical.

I love your 'in-works' stands-

- far less sheer loading and very stable if you need to press down..!

The model looks very good--I like the deck,the hull and the turret et al

...Hm! there is a lot of ( bright! ) green on the bottom ( I would have done a waterline...)


stand by for my biased rant!

I have had no joy with water-based paints, ever --it can be OK for spraying... but ...

Lifecolour, Revell aquacolour and Humbrol water-based on a brush are the death-
-they dry too quick and (can look) granular in surface finish
Further more ....I feel they are '" brittle paints, easily scuffed or scraped, and seem to lack adhesive power-
thereby can resulting in masking tape disasters

I would only ever use enamel- Colourcoats, Humbrol ( ==> preferably the " old " type)
( I have 000's of old tinlets, even the old Airfix paints-- very very opaque and dense
and Revell sometimes...( I like their coal black No 9 )

The slightly coarser pigmentation of 'old' enamel tinlets for brushing is not a problem
as the Galeria Artists quality Matt water-based varnish - thinned 50-50 with distilled water
( or 60/40 if going on a sub-optimally not quite even' brushy surface..)
@ 15 / 20ps psi thru airbrush--

The Galeria varnish is THE mattest I have ever come across-
and self-levels and flattens everything more homogeneously than any other
I have ever used. b

It is inert and harmless to all enamels ( so... no reactive thinner / cellulose nightmares )

end of rant !

I like enamel too, when I can dispense with working with acrylics, I don't mind. But sometimes it's not possible. Sometimes I use both on a ship, with caution.

But I don't work with brushes very much.

The green was still light because it was not finished, it was missing some shading and a layer of darker green. It's now applied and I'm happy with it. The last one is satin green, a coat of matte varnish will be applied once it has been aged.

Painting, placing, gluing the fittings of the forecastle, everything is of course not yet in place.

Deck 2 is not yet glued, only the 140mm guns are.

JIM BAUMANN wrote:I love your 'in-works' stands-

- far less sheer loading and very stable if you need to press down..!

The model looks very good--I like the deck,the hull and the turret et al

...Hm! there is a lot of ( bright! ) green on the bottom ( I would have done a waterline...)


stand by for my biased rant!

I have had no joy with water-based paints, ever --it can be OK for spraying... but ...

Lifecolour, Revell aquacolour and Humbrol water-based on a brush are the death-
-they dry too quick and (can look) granular in surface finish
Further more ....I feel they are '" brittle paints, easily scuffed or scraped, and seem to lack adhesive power-
thereby can resulting in masking tape disasters

I would only ever use enamel- Colourcoats, Humbrol ( ==> preferably the " old " type)
( I have 000's of old tinlets, even the old Airfix paints-- very very opaque and dense
and Revell sometimes...( I like their coal black No 9 )

The slightly coarser pigmentation of 'old' enamel tinlets for brushing is not a problem
as the Galeria Artists quality Matt water-based varnish - thinned 50-50 with distilled water
( or 60/40 if going on a sub-optimally not quite even' brushy surface..)
@ 15 / 20ps psi thru airbrush--

The Galeria varnish is THE mattest I have ever come across-
and self-levels and flattens everything more homogeneously than any other
I have ever used. b

It is inert and harmless to all enamels ( so... no reactive thinner / cellulose nightmares )


end of rant !

I have the gloss version of it. And it is...100% matt.
So I don't doubt of what you say