The Ship Model Forum

neat step-by step

neat result! -- transparent resin eh......wohoo!

Good stuff!

JIM B

nicely done. one ? how accurate does the wieght measerment need to be ? Greg W

Ron, you never cease to amaze me and inspire me to take up crochet.
I like your life rafts, neat isn't the word.

HAB

Greg W wrote:nicely done. one ? how accurate does the wieght measerment need to be ? Greg W

Catalyst to rubber, 5% just a guess.


Catalyst to resin , just a few drops, neither hard or fast.

I Ron super methodology and the results are clear to see {excuse the pun] but as they say you never stop learning , I must have a go at moulding . I have a huge number of life raft containers to make . As usual you make the whole process look easy.
Dave Wooley

Very good described. Allow me to make a few propositions:

If you pour out the plastillin straight to the table you have a better access to mould it to the original. Then put only a chest with no botton on the plastillin, as it will serve as bottom. To make the other side, one halve of the mould will be the botton. Another advantage is, that I make the chest as small as possible to save silicone-material for lesser costs.

If the original is difficult to cast, I don't make tunnels for air or "cast" it really. as I described in my B-110 you could pour the resin, get the bubbles out and when it starts to gelatize just put both halves and press them together. It works fine, especially with small or complicated pieces.

ARH, Torpedo... your excellent moulding results and descriptions how to do it really make me want to try it myself finally!

Torpedo, If I put the life boat on the bottom I loose all the detail at the back, the way I have done it , there,s no mess , no spillages from the mould, a few taps after pouring the resin and the air bubbels have gone.

Torpedo, If I put the life boat on the bottom I loose all the detail at the back

?! I think we speak about different things. First of all your results prove your method!!!

But why would you lose details with the method I proposed? First plastillin, then object, then silicone. Wait, remove the plastillin and turn it 180�. Now its hardened silicone, object, liquid silicone. In the end you have (also) a perfect mould nothing to cut off or remove (except very thin resin which was pressed between the mould halves.

Hi Guys, I have finaly got round to do my own gun barrels, I will post a few pictures each day, it will take about 5 days, to show all work done.

Here,s my trusty Myford ML7 lathe, its over 30 years old, but like me still works, the first barral is in the chuck.



1st one placed in position.



2nd one along side.



3rd one for the second turret




4th along side, the ship has now got its forward teeth.



5th barrel for the rear gun, you may also see the walkways, this is why I try to keep all the photos I take in sequence,




6th one in place, note my oil drum and the floater net baskets, and the hosses drying over the guard rails.





enjoy , ARH

Hi Ron

Theres nothing wrong with ye olde trusty myford 7 lathe, this lathe is considered a classic ...I guess maybe likes its owner!

A question on your gun barrels, do you use a "myford taper" attachement or are you eyeballing it in? It would be of interest to know your method because I think they look very impressive.


Regards
Mike

I set the head at a slight taper, and did them by hand, I did not use the feed, Im not that compitant useing the lathe, but I can do what I need to do.

Hi Guys, Here,s the Resin pic I promised, got two admirers at least,

Hi Ron GUN barrels and Teeth what more could any self-respecting warship ever want. Great to see the barrels in place and a nice piece of turning as well. You are a man of many talents.
Dave Wooley

Wow! That barrels look terrific!

Moffet is nearly ready for action



Nice guns




Jef

The 5" barrels definitely look great! I ought to learn this technique myself - I'll need to make quite a few 1/200 6" barrels when I eventually continue work on my Belfast and I don't think I have enough suitable 1/72 tank guns left
The resin liferafts also look to have turned out very well - again, resin casting is something I really need to learn, as it looks to be much better for producing large, complex castings than metal.

Hi Guys, we continue with the turrets

The ship overall.





This is how I do my blast bags, first I take some standard Milliput and mix the two parts together , then I make small balls and attach them around the barrel, on the top and undernieth.



Then either side of the barrel.



Then with my fingers and a small amount of water I mould them to shape.



First turret and barrels painted, second turret has its blast bags moulded.



A close up, just a few touch ups to do.




enjoy, ARH

excellent methodology again! good looking blastbags!

The overall shot is looking increasingly busy--as it should--just like a real hardworked US DD

I am spending far too much time in Scratchbuild--reading all these updates...for so many ships!! keeping me away from my own model,,,LOL


great stuff

JIM B

EPinniger wrote:The 5" barrels definitely look great! I ought to learn this technique myself - I'll need to make quite a few 1/200 6" barrels when I eventually continue work on my Belfast and I don't think I have enough suitable 1/72 tank guns left
The resin liferafts also look to have turned out very well - again, resin casting is something I really need to learn, as it looks to be much better for producing large, complex castings than metal.

I believe MicroMark has a mini lathe for a reasonable price you should check on. If you want to produce small barrels in the future for more projects I'd take a look to see if it will work for you. Ebay may be another source to check. Keep in mind you don't need a ridged or massive machine tool.