USS Indiana BB-58 Scratchbuild in 1/96 - 1944
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- Cadman
- Site Admin

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- Francisco P. de Nanclares
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- Richard J OMalley
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BB 58
Great news,hang in there
Richard

Richard
If you are not living on the edge then you are taking up to much space
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Lou
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Alex Mandel
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- PetrOs
- PetrOs Modellbau

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Thats good news!
Model kit manufacturer and distributor: https://b2b.modellbaudienst.de
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1:350 HMS Diana 1794 - nearly released
Further kits in preparation.
Distributor of Very Fire, Snowman, Milania Master Korabel, Falkonet, Microdisign in EU
1:350 HMS Diana 1794 - nearly released
Further kits in preparation.
- Bill Waldorf
- Waldorf Productions

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- Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Hello again everyone!!
Well, more GOOD NEWS!!!!!
CIC now taken off all monitering devices and no more tubes stuck in her. She is no longer tethered!
Up and around walking, with some assistance. She should be home next week. Still have to deal with chemo drugs. It will be a pill form to begin with to she how she responds to it. Very little side effects I am told. We will see. She will start Sunday. Keep those fingers crossed and keep those prayers coming. I have witnessed a miracle....................... Your all one hell of a good group of fellows.......... My sincere thanks again
New update on the Indiana build coming soon. CIC wishes me to continue. I will comply as ordered....................

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- JIM BAUMANN
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Excellent news!
Trust all will be well in the end -looking forward to progress reports--on all fronts!
JIM Baumann
Trust all will be well in the end -looking forward to progress reports--on all fronts!
JIM Baumann
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
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IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com
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- Jose Chaica
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- Bill Waldorf
- Waldorf Productions

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- Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Hello again all
First, CIC doing well and should be home next week. I will do all I can to assist in her recovery from the edge. So, back to the build. As you know, things have been a bit scary here and I have not worked on the project much at all. Things are looking up, however and I have managed to do a little bit. Here are some photos of the process to mold the three main 16" gun turrents on the Indiana. Lets take a look.............

Here you can see the master for the turrent body tacked on to a piece of .040 styrene, then surrounded by "Lego" building blocks to form a box. I will soon pour RTV rubber into this box to form the mold. ARH used this same method on his North Carolina build some time ago.

Here is another view of the box assy. for the mold. You don't have to use Legos, any suitable material will work to form the box around the master pattern prevoiusly constucted. Styrene works well. If you use wood, make sure you seal the inside of the box. I superglued the first layer of Legos to the styrene sheet here, then just built up the rest to the correct height. Try to keep a fair distance between the master and the inside edges of the mold box in all directions. This will give you a pretty strong mold. This is a simple one piece mold, you can get much more involved with other items such as aircraft, which would require a two piece mold.

Since I am using the Lego building blocks, I must seal the outside of the box to prevent any leakage of the RTV rubber liquid, since the blocks have very small spaces between them even though they fit together pretty tight. A good way to do that is to use Play-Doh. Here I have kneaded the clay into a strip which I'll then apply to the outside of the mold box all the way around. If you use a different material to form your box, just be sure it is sealed good to prevent leakage. The advantage to the Legos is that after the RTV compound has cured, I can take the box apart and reuse the blocks over and over again.

Here's the Play-Doh applied to the outside of the mold box. I'll work my way around the entire perimeter of the box to be sure it is sealed. You don't want to leave the clay sit for any length of time as it will begin to get hard and start to shrink.Then you'll lose the seal. So seal the box just before the pour of the RTV. Cure time varies with different brands. The stuff I will use cures in about 4 hours. Then you can remove the clay and put it back in it's container to be reused again. If it dries out a bit, you can add a little water to it to soften it up again.


Here's the range finders for the turrent, left and right. Same procedure used here as above. I'll make a master pattern for the barbettes next, then do this same procedure again. So I will pour all three molds, the main turrent body, the range finders and the barbettes, all at once. I'll use about 64 oz. of RTV. About a hundred bucks. Careful planning will result in much less wasted materials in this procedure. In the next update I'll do the pour and we will continue from there! Stay Tuned! CIC will be OK. I keep faith and hold course for now. Please do the same, I know you all will. Till next time....................... I continue on..................

Here you can see the master for the turrent body tacked on to a piece of .040 styrene, then surrounded by "Lego" building blocks to form a box. I will soon pour RTV rubber into this box to form the mold. ARH used this same method on his North Carolina build some time ago.
Here is another view of the box assy. for the mold. You don't have to use Legos, any suitable material will work to form the box around the master pattern prevoiusly constucted. Styrene works well. If you use wood, make sure you seal the inside of the box. I superglued the first layer of Legos to the styrene sheet here, then just built up the rest to the correct height. Try to keep a fair distance between the master and the inside edges of the mold box in all directions. This will give you a pretty strong mold. This is a simple one piece mold, you can get much more involved with other items such as aircraft, which would require a two piece mold.
Since I am using the Lego building blocks, I must seal the outside of the box to prevent any leakage of the RTV rubber liquid, since the blocks have very small spaces between them even though they fit together pretty tight. A good way to do that is to use Play-Doh. Here I have kneaded the clay into a strip which I'll then apply to the outside of the mold box all the way around. If you use a different material to form your box, just be sure it is sealed good to prevent leakage. The advantage to the Legos is that after the RTV compound has cured, I can take the box apart and reuse the blocks over and over again.
Here's the Play-Doh applied to the outside of the mold box. I'll work my way around the entire perimeter of the box to be sure it is sealed. You don't want to leave the clay sit for any length of time as it will begin to get hard and start to shrink.Then you'll lose the seal. So seal the box just before the pour of the RTV. Cure time varies with different brands. The stuff I will use cures in about 4 hours. Then you can remove the clay and put it back in it's container to be reused again. If it dries out a bit, you can add a little water to it to soften it up again.
Here's the range finders for the turrent, left and right. Same procedure used here as above. I'll make a master pattern for the barbettes next, then do this same procedure again. So I will pour all three molds, the main turrent body, the range finders and the barbettes, all at once. I'll use about 64 oz. of RTV. About a hundred bucks. Careful planning will result in much less wasted materials in this procedure. In the next update I'll do the pour and we will continue from there! Stay Tuned! CIC will be OK. I keep faith and hold course for now. Please do the same, I know you all will. Till next time....................... I continue on..................
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- Jose Chaica
- Posts: 369
- Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 1:40 pm
- Location: Marinha Grande - Leiria, Portugal.
Oh yeah !!!
The good old trusty Lego bricks....
Just a quick note on my own experiences using this same method...I don�t superglue them down. I�ve found that by using regular white (wood) glue, it will have the same effect of holding the bricks in place AND it will form a protective layer too AND it will be much more easier do dismantle the box after use....
Anyway, it�s great to see that you�re back to your "dockyard"...
.
Just a quick note on my own experiences using this same method...I don�t superglue them down. I�ve found that by using regular white (wood) glue, it will have the same effect of holding the bricks in place AND it will form a protective layer too AND it will be much more easier do dismantle the box after use....
Anyway, it�s great to see that you�re back to your "dockyard"...
- Bill Waldorf
- Waldorf Productions

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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:57 pm
- Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Just a footnote to the above post........... Some may be thinking, "how can he do this with all that is going on?" It's real simple,- I needed a break. Some self therapy if you will. I needed to get my mind off things for just a little while. Otherwise I will become a real wreck. We don't want that now, do we???? I'll leave it there................... 
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- Bill Waldorf
- Waldorf Productions

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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:57 pm
- Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Good idea!! Thanks for the post. I'm in the "Dockyard" for a short respite from all the other things. Once CIC is home and more family arrives here soon to assist with her recovery, perhaps I'll get a bit more done. It will be slow............jmchaica wrote:Oh yeah !!!The good old trusty Lego bricks....
![]()
Just a quick note on my own experiences using this same method...I don�t superglue them down. I�ve found that by using regular white (wood) glue, it will have the same effect of holding the bricks in place AND it will form a protective layer too AND it will be much more easier do dismantle the box after use....
Anyway, it�s great to see that you�re back to your "dockyard"...![]()
![]()
.
Waldorf Productions / Museum Quality Model Warships
Custom Building Services Available
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I will miss you Werner. Fair winds and following seas.