The Ship Model Forum

They did, on occasion, except the smoke was white

Right! I have a Sharps rifle that I shoot Black Powder, it s sort of a gray, darn opaque! Allegedly the Arizona was done in by the bomb setting off the black powder magazine used for signaling and catapulting. I would guess a lot of volly's from the age of sail were launched with no sight of the target, sound shots as it were. As ship of that scale you should be able to reproduce absolute scale!

Thanks for sharing! One question, do you have any idea when a transition was made to anchor chain?

Regards: Tom

Tom,

According to the font of all wisdom:

"In 1808 Samuel Brown, a Naval Leutenant, fitted out a Navy vessel, the 'Penelope' with chain anchor cables and rigging and sailed her to the West Indies to prove the superiority of iron chain. In 1818 he and his cousin Samuel Lenox established a chainworks at Pontypridd."

James Lees "Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War" also says that anchor chains were introduced in the early 19th century.

Rope anchor cables continued to be used well into the 19th century, especially on smaller vessels and merchant ships. They are still used on small boats.

Phil

Phil:

Good info, nothing like a reference library, let's see, where is that volume, opening the pages and quickly thumbing to the right spot.

Cheers: Tom

Fliger747 wrote:Thanks for sharing! One question, do you have any idea when a transition was made to anchor chain?

In the US Navy through the 1840's, the Brits maybe a little sooner, or about the same time. I'd have to research that more to be definate. By the 1850's there were far more iron fittings being used in Naval vessels, including chain. Her tops'l halyards were also chain to a gin-block and then blocks and rope purchases. I'm basing my model on a painting of the ship done in 1856 (she was launched in 1854) which clearly shows chain.

Just sharing minor discovery.... Printing props, the myriad of supports under the blades leave a stubble that mars the finish. I discovered by accident when I failed to add supports at all that the underside of the blades still print perfectly. So as it turns out, just supports under the hub still provides for a perfectly printed blade with both sides very smooth!

Cheers: Tom

Under the Wah hail clause of any kind of scratch building, I have an issue with items waiting to assume a banana shape when drying and curing, with the curve radius normal to the platen side of the print. With a boom or mast i can insert a steel rod, with a hull more problematic. Trying printing one vertically, 28 hours vis 3...

Hi Tom,

If I understand your comment correctly, you are talking about objects that are printed in a plane parallel to the platen. After printing they are becoming banana or "U" shaped. Are they sagging toward the platen in the middle between supports?

Is the curving happening while the print is still attached to the platen, or after removing it from the platen?

I know you have been using a water washable resin, and you have implied in the past that you allow the parts to air dry for a while before they are UV cured. Is this correct? Is the curving happening during drying , during curing or after curing? At one time I think you said some of the curved parts would straighten out as they dried, before curing.

I guess we have all seen thin pieces distorted or bent between supports - things like hand rails. Or flat surfaces becoming "lumpy" between supports. But this distortion occurs during printing due to separation forces between the print and the platen. Is this what you are talking about?

You mentioned a hull, and that would be much more substantial than a thin railing or pipe.

****

I haven't studied the solidification of resins, but the material does seem to form a crystalline structure when it cures. Some materials develop stress when they crystallize, resulting in curved crystals. If you have ever seen hoarfrost you know what I mean. Water freezes into very long thin curved crystals.

I wonder if printing resins have internal stresses when they cure? I can imagine that the resin layers might cure unequally if the layer is too thick or the exposure time is too short. The UV light intensity will decrease as it passes through the printed layer. The side of the layer on the film at the bottom of the tank (more UV exposure) might cure differently from the side of the layer more distant from the film (less UV exposure). Maybe this is causing stresses that make long pieces curve?

If this is a problem perhaps thinner layers and longer exposure times will produce more even curing and reduce stresses.

Phil

I'll make a WAG , perhaps the first layers continue to cure as the later layers pile on top and don't have time for shrinkage from drying and curing whereas the upper layers are still shrinkable? In the case of a hull printed vertically there should not be a bending moment along the length. Currently printing a vertical version of the DE hull, which takes over a day as opposed to a few hours. We shall see!

So far the vertically printed hull is going well, doing it this way I could add the bilge keels which would not work out with the hull horizontal. A few more hours to go, it does seem the hull sprinting a little faster than the originally prognosticated time. If I do this again I'll try a .05 rather than a .035 mm layer thickness as there is really no detail. My primitive program certainly does not allow the capability of Pascal like weld lines and rivets on the hull surface.

Cheers: Tom

Does anyone own an any cubic mono x 6k printer? Do you like it? Does it work well for hull sections? I can get one really cheap but just not sure.


Cheers,
Todd

bigtodd wrote:Does anyone own an any cubic mono x 6k printer? Do you like it? Does it work well for hull sections? I can get one really cheap but just not sure.
Cheers, Todd

Todd,
I think that Flinger747 currently has one of those printers. He's on vacation, but I'll email him and ask him to reply when he can. He can fill you in on his assessment of the printer, etc.

Hank

How big a ship are you planning to print?

Are you planning to RC it?

My impression (feel free to correct!) is that Resin printed items tend to be great for detail, and perhaps less great for functional items (ie RC) due to being a bit more brittle.

I've printed a Liberty ship using FDM, and it's pretty good.

NS

I want to stay in the 1/350 to 1/200 scale. Nothing R/C.

I've had this printer for some time and printed all the parts including hull sections for both the 1:144 DMS and DE covered in the scratch build area. A long hull section (8-9") takes a considerable time to print. One can reduce the time a bit by increasing the layer thickness from 35 to 50 microns.

Cheers: Tom

NavyShooter wrote:How big a ship are you planning to print?

Are you planning to RC it?

My impression (feel free to correct!) is that Resin printed items tend to be great for detail, and perhaps less great for functional items (ie RC) due to being a bit more brittle.

I've printed a Liberty ship using FDM, and it's pretty good.

NS

It is possible in resin, and as you say, there will be much less sanding work on the hull, as it is much much more precise.

For the solidity, I think it would be less solid than FDM, but more than enough with a thickness of 3 mm. There is nothing to stop you from reinforcing the hull with epoxy resin and canvas inside.

An Anycubic M3 Max printer could do the job. Even for large ships.

https://www.anycubic.com/collections/3d ... ton-m3-max

? Print size: 300 x 298 x 164 mm / 11.8 x 11.7 x 6.46 in. (HWD)

You can print half hulls widthwise for large scales, as I did in the beginning with my first small printer. The ship was made of 14 resin half elements ( 7 trunks ).

Everything is possible now.

My first project:
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=305869

For a 1:144 scale destroyer it might be possible to print all the hull sections at a single swoop, however enough resin would be used that it would be necessary to add resin during the session. My printer has a handy pause or resume feature which allows one to pause to add resin, to in the possible interruption of power during a day long print session, to resume printing at the stop point.

I used the handy hollowing function of the Chitubox slicer to achieve a smooth interior. A serious lack in the design program I use (which is very difficult for hulls) is no mirror function. However in Chitubox I can start with a half hull, copy and mirror and re join.

Good luck!

I have settled on this 3D printer to build my ship hulls. Bahahahahaha!!!!

This is so cool you have to check it out.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D6eusBL3dtc

Cheers
Todd

Perhaps Mr Jim Baumann will buy one of these for the scales he works in?

Last week my original Phrozen Sonic Mini printer bit the dust and is slated for Deep 6'ing at the recycle center. I have just today received the replacement - an Any Cubic Mono X 6K and it is now in the shop awaiting unpacking & setup - Ye-Sir-ee Bob, this is your Big Boy if the size of the packing box is any indication of it's actual size. And the damn thing weighed quite a bit also!!! I couldn't believe it...took 3 of the yard birds to haul it out to the shop...imagine that!!!

I was seriously leaning towards the Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8k printer, but recent (2023) reviews were showing a very inconsistent pattern and some serious doubts about its capabilities and output led me to make the decision in favor of the A C M 6K. Besides having "bells & whistles" that neither rang or tweeted, was not exactly a selling point in my way of thinking.

Might get around to unpacking tonight, might not. As I finished Radiation Treatment #20 (of 20) today around noon and had a nice early steak dinner to celebrate, I'm not exactly inclined to do any further manual labor this evening. Besides, not having a daily grind to be at the medical facility now, I am going to take my time getting this machine in running order. I expect to be querying Tom, Pascal, and Phil from time to time as they are quite more knowledgeable about the Any Cubic printers and so forth.

Hank