APA project

[DrPR]

There is the satisfaction of having done an excellent job the hard way!

Phil

[Iceman 29]

Thank you Pascal:

I finally got some Phrozen resin for my new printer and an about to try a few sample items, too late for this project which uses no commercial parts and completely traditional methods and materials. I learned (and continue to do so) a lot this way. Perhaps the height of absurdity was carving and assembling individual anchor chain links from styrene. The wood that I first tried had a tendency to split. Song certainly has this art down solidly.

Turning individual oil drums on a lathe from aluminum, bridge pelorus etc. Not everything is optimal, but we learn.

Cheers: Tom

A friend of a French forum reported to me a small defect on the Phrozen sonic 4K that he has just received, I communicate it to you, to be checked:

I also realized that the tray was biting on the tape frame that protects the screen.
As a result, the plate does not come to complement the screen? or at an angle?



So I peeled off and cut the black tape so that the tray would be parallel to the screen during the Z-calibration:

[Fliger747]

Thank you Pascal, I will check this out. There is a learning curve to this but I am making progress, the crispness of the detail is rathe astounding when it works. Even the small wing nuts holding down the top of a 20 mm ready box printed. It seems to me in some experimentation that the 120 scale parts work better.

Cheers: Tom

[Iceman 29]

Some settings (In Chitubox) with Anycubic Black resin, he have some problems with the Phrozen aqua grey.

For my part I will use the Elegoo resin.





LD002R to the left, Sonic on right ( 1/32 pieces ).



Sonic:

[Fliger747]

Thank you Pascal! A learning curve here!

T

[Fliger747]

A first effort! Things always look worse under the camera. I think this would be satisfactory with cleanup and paint.

A 1:120 version of the after hatch to berthing on a Fletcher.

[Iceman 29]

Not so bad for first tests, you would need a reference element for the scale next to the picture.

After painting it's much better in general.

[Fliger747]

Just printed, deck mounted 20 power binoculars. If I can separate these successfully?

As to size the are about 1/2" tall in 1:120 scale (1.25 cm or so)

[Fliger747]

Here it is detached from the supports.

[Fliger747]

I successfully coughed up 4 more of these little gems ( deck Bino's) but am finding each particular model presents challenges. A disadvantage of SLA printing is you don't find out it was a flop till it's done when the failure occurred right off the bat. My printer is being reluctant to read files from the USB and I get advice to reformat in FAT32, which is not an option any more in any of my several computers, which only offer EXFAT and NTFS (Including a Win7). Maybe not as bad as the bad old days when one had to format the HD, including partitions, install the operating system and edit things with EDLIN to get it to work, and the fun of extended memory, but it's not plug and play either. So plugging along!

In the meantime I can look through photos and find cleats and padeyes to add, lots of those! Still haven't added disembarkation nets. Watching Away All Boats again the other night I saw better how they were configured and attached to the ship.

Cheers: Tom

[Fliger747]

Surprisingly my MAC let me format in Fat32, whereas my updated Win 7 and 10 "floor tops" don't have that option any more. Go figure. However there is something special about the drive that comes with the printer as even a newly formatted TD isn't recognized by it though all the computers and associated editing software do fine.

Will get sorted out eventually!

Cheers: Tom

[Iceman 29]

It is important to digitally eject the USB key before each removal from the slot otherwise you risk a file error on the printer, Windows or Mac.

[Fliger747]

Printed two Mk 51 directors and they look beautiful (to my biased eye). Have to get them cured, cleaned up and measure for size fidelity.

Cheers! Tom

[Fliger747]

Nothing ever looks as good in photos. That's why even really beautiful models use makeup and sometimes photoshop. Here is a Mk51 in primer, the base still needs to be removed, a design issue as I should have supported it differently. Still learning really basic stuff.

Total height just over 1/2" and printed in 1:120.

[Fliger747]

Grinds off really fast on my vertical sanding wheel. The optimal way to do this (as I did on the deck Bino's) is to elevate the item above the base and leave a smaller connector. These are really fragile and it's a delicate chore to remove the supports, the fragile items only survive as the material is somewhat rubbery. If I was to print any more of these I would beef up at a few places.

You can't learn if you aren't willing to make and admit a few errors.

Cheers: T

[BB62vet]

Grinds off really fast on my vertical sanding wheel. The optimal way to do this (as I did on the deck Bino's) is to elevate the item above the base and leave a smaller connector. These are really fragile and it's a delicate chore to remove the supports, the fragile items only survive as the material is somewhat rubbery. If I was to print any more of these I would beef up at a few places.
You can't learn if you aren't willing to make and admit a few errors.
Cheers: T

Tom,
I think that would be the optimal solution. As I've found with Model Monkey parts, the support legs (which are many) actually end in little tapered pieces that attach to the part. With a good removal tool (as I just purchased) they come off easy. A light sanding is necessary with his parts to remove any minute' jagged remnants of the support material and you're good to go. But, this material is very fragile as you've found out. FYI - his 5" mount bases are really highly detailed and will work perfect on the DD-566 project. Those are the only parts I've removed at this point.

I like the detail you've gotten in those two parts, very nice, indeed!! I guess my question right now would be - when you are only printing a couple small items (such as your Mk. 51 directors) how much resin do you pour into the well of the printer? I would think that your Mk. 51 pieces would be fine with a center support so you don't have the base buildup that will later need to be removed.

Just thinking out loud here!

Hank

[Fliger747]

Indeed, because of all the small dangly bits the Mk 51's are surrounded by an intricate forest of small supports, which come off OK, but visually obscured the base so I didn't notice. I since learned how to eliminate the problem. If I print any more I'll change the sliced item vis vis the supports.

The 20 mm ready boxes I am printing at the moment look like a house in Bengaladesh, on stilts.

Currently designing sky lookouts.

[Fliger747]

Sky lookouts, printed but missed the center seat post, which is the thickest part? Too light and airy, will redesign. Printed a single 20 mm Orlikon in 1:144, and it printed OK, but resized for 1:120 and first attempt came out a blob. So redesigned and trying to print horizontally (on it's side) with bigger supports, see how that works out!

Photos if I have success!

[Iceman 29]

It takes at least one month to control the beast.

[Fliger747]

That seems a good estimate, and a lot of resin! This afternoon I printed a lineup of four (beautiful) 20 mm Orlikons, but somehow they didn't get resized, so still in 1:144, not a scale I currently use. So I enlarged them in Chit-U-Box (again) and in a couple of hours should have some in 1:120. Re drawing the Sky Lookouts as they are to light and airy even if probably in the correct scale.

Step forward, sometimes a step back, sometimes not.

Cheers: tom