3D printing

[DrPR]

"These are a but hard to was inside as well as necessary, ..."

?WTF

[Fliger747]

WAS (H).... variously pronounced Worsch, Waaash etc.

Cheers: Tom

[NavyShooter]

So,

Yesterday as I was puttering around on my HMCS St Thomas model, I discovered that I was missing a key component. I ended up heading into the simplest of all programs and doing up the design...then I pushed it from TinkerCAD out to PrusaSlicer, and the print-job took 14 minutes to make 2 copies.

I'll have them out to the garage tonight to paint, and will mount them.

The key part here is the ability to go from design, to prototype, to completed build in a matter of less than an hour.

I love the flexibility of 3D printing.

NS

[BB62vet]

NS,

Nice to know that you're able to make what you need in a short amount of time. Wish it were ALL that simple!!

Hank

[BB62vet]

Recent developments with regards to the printer & resins:

1) While the Elegoo ABS like Gray resin has printed some parts quite well, it doesn't print fine details on small parts as I sort of expected - and I'm still having a time getting the right settings for printing on the Any Cubic Photon Mono X 6K printer.

2) Likewise with very poor results so far from the Any Cubic ABS like Black resin - also due to incorrect settings or insufficient info to get these settings correct. Out of 3 printing sessions I have 3 small parts (out of a dozen or more) that came out usable.

3) Last night I did further research into the settings situation online and I think I may have found the right adjustments to make - only further test printing will tell. I may do further printing with the Any Cubic Black and see it these adjustments actually work.

The last print run yesterday resulted also in a major rip in the printer vats original FEP -

Original FEP after rip

So, this morning while it was still cool in the shop, I replaced the FEP - I had watched a U-Tube video last night of a guy in UK replacing his and it wasn't that difficult but did take around 45 minutes to have the vat ready to go. I did a new Z-lift calibration and Zero'd the build platform, so everything is back to normal on the printer. Something Positive, for once!!!

One new purchase has also proven to be a winner - I bought a Sunlu Curing Box and it has done a great job of providing a steady and timed curing period. I've cured the AC and Elegoo resin parts in it and they seem to be hardened sufficiently. This box comes unassembled but isn't difficult to put together. The bottom with the turntable is preassembled and just a couple connections are needed to have this item up and running. Here is the curing box -

Sunlu - Exterior

Sunlu Interior

In the back (on the wall) you can see the timer - starts at 300 seconds and goes to zero and shuts the machine off. You can set it to higher times or simply turn the timer on for a 2nd curing period, etc.

As I've redesigned the boat davits for my STODDARD project, I'm keen to get these printed correctly and see if they will work - right now everything is an experiment with these two resins. If the results don't improve, I have a new jug of Phrozen ABS like Black resin on order - tried and true!!!

Any suggestion from other Any Cubic printer/resin users is welcomed regarding settings, etc.

Hank

[Iceman 29]

I no longer use anycubic resins, I found them expensive, they smelled strong, and the parts were very fragile, brittle.

Maybe that's changed now...

[BB62vet]

I no longer use anycubic resins, I found them expensive, they smelled strong, and the parts were very fragile, brittle.
Maybe that's changed now...

Pascal,
Thanks for your input! I can't address what AC resin was in the past as this is my 1st use of their resin. I have a few parts that did print that I need to remove from their supports and I'll get a better idea of how they came out at that time. I also have a new davit file set up for printing tomorrow a.m. I do know that the Phrozen ABS Like Rapid Black is $60.00/1 kg jug - I've got one on order as I'm not as yet confident that I have the settings correct for either the Elegoo or AC resins.

It's still a trial & error endeavor!

Hank

[Fliger747]

Hank:

All I can say is: "Wah Hail!

Good luck!

[BB62vet]

After a month or so of trying to get successful prints with the AnyCubic Black ABS Like resin and the Elegoo Gray ABS Like resin (v2) I've had enough of the failed prints and poor performance - even after soliciting assistance from others who use this printer or the same resins. I did get feedback from one member and tried his settings - they produced inconsistent results over several print runs.

While a lot of this can be attributed to my own ineptitude using these resins and having the wrong settings, I don't have the time, money, or patience to continue with poor results. Therefore, I've returned to using the good old Phrozen ABS Like Rapid Black resin that I've had success with over the last couple years. Using Tom's current settings has produced 5 successful print runs in a row with better than 95% of the parts coming out complete and usable. Compared to less than 15% of usable parts with the other two resins, there is no reason to pursue their continued use.

Just an update and to let others know that older resins DO work well with newer printers currently being sold. At least, this is the case for me. Again, there are other factors which determine how your prints will come out or not - orientation & support of the part and the inside room conditions (temp/humidity/etc.).

Currently I'm working on getting small items reprinted for my destroyer project forecastle deck that needed slight tweaking in their design/size and this effort is coming together nicely. Refer to my USS STODDARD (DD-566) build for updates (http://shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewto ... 3#p1027683)

Hank

[mikegr]

After a month or so of trying to get successful prints with the AnyCubic Black ABS Like resin and the Elegoo Gray ABS Like resin (v2) I've had enough of the failed prints and poor performance - even after soliciting assistance from others who use this printer or the same resins. I did get feedback from one member and tried his settings - they produced inconsistent results over several print runs.

While a lot of this can be attributed to my own ineptitude using these resins and having the wrong settings, I don't have the time, money, or patience to continue with poor results. Therefore, I've returned to using the good old Phrozen ABS Like Rapid Black resin that I've had success with over the last couple years. Using Tom's current settings has produced 5 successful print runs in a row with better than 95% of the parts coming out complete and usable. Compared to less than 15% of usable parts with the other two resins, there is no reason to pursue their continued use.

Just an update and to let others know that older resins DO work well with newer printers currently being sold. At least, this is the case for me. Again, there are other factors which determine how your prints will come out or not - orientation & support of the part and the inside room conditions (temp/humidity/etc.).

Currently I'm working on getting small items reprinted for my destroyer project forecastle deck that needed slight tweaking in their design/size and this effort is coming together nicely. Refer to my USS STODDARD (DD-566) build for updates (http://shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewto ... 3#p1027683)

Hank

i used to go spearfishing in some places. Lately i go only in one place nearby because of lack of time.
I noticed that after mulitple dives many secrets of the place and the fishes are discovered to me
obviously if you quit one resin that used for sometime then its like going baxk almost to starting point. The longer you use the same resin/printer the more you discover

[BB62vet]

Mikegr -

Thanks for the comment on the resins. At this point, going back to a resin that has given proven results seemed only sensible given the costs in time/effort/money that can be involved.

Hank

[mikegr]

My biggest problem with resin is that anycubic water washable is brittle especially when printing 1/700 parts.

I am thinking of using my 2nd vat with normal resin for printing delicate parts. What would you suggest? ABS like or extra strong?

I have also found 2 resins that look stronger at least in papers

https://www.flashforgeshop.com/product/ ... tle?cID=42

https://primacreator.com/collections/re ... 9920189542

maybe these can work better so i dont have to change type of resin, what do you think?

[BB62vet]

Mikegr -

I'm probably NOT the person to answer your last comment, but I've found that the Phrozen ABS-Like resins (gray & Rapid Black) produce quite pliable or non-brittle parts. I've read other comments that the Phrozen resins are more "watery" than the other brands and I have to agree. Possibly this is why the print time is quite a bit longer with the Phrozen resins than say either the Elegoo or Any Cubic.

Using the R.B. Black, my parts come out rather flexible and highly detailed, so this might be a consideration for your 2nd vat. Currently, this is all I'm using now and am quite pleased with the results. For larger parts that are generally thicker (1mm +) and dried/cured properly, these parts retain the solidity you would expect - such as for gun mount bodies, deck houses, etc.

Others may have their own favorites - perhaps there will be follow up commentary....!

Hank

[Fliger747]

Hank and I both began this printing adventure together, if at 3000 miles distance. I am currently also using the Phrozen Rapid Black water washable. I have tried a few other resins but this seems to reliably give quite good detail. For instance I am working up a couple of narrow gauge diesel locomotive shells with numerous grills on the sides. These printed very well indeed with 0.25mm openings on a .5 mm pattern.

Best regards: Tom

[mikegr]

Thanks for the replies

What is the exposure times comparing to anycubic resin? Has anyone used the gray type? Looks like it has 24% elogation which is quite impressive for water resin.
For those in US there is a product from Ministry of Resin. Their claim that the water washable product is durable and non brittlle

[mikegr]

So I have started testing a new resin. Its definitely not brittle and quite elastic. Using the same parameters as Anycubic resin I didnt get precise printings. I reduced the exposure but not much improvement. Then I mixed some Anycubic with the new resin at a ratio of 40-60. Results were better and still prints were not brittle. From left to right:
Anycubic resin, Resione and mix of two products. Note one Oerlikon is missing a barrel already. However they are easier to design and print than Bofors.

[Iceman 29]

I've been using Eleggo standard grey V1 for a long time, then V2 now. It's not washable with water, only with alcohol, but it's cheap because it's not very expensive, and it doesn't smell.

I've made all my models with it. Anycubic resins are not great in general, too brittle, having used them at the beginning, 3 years ago.

The Phrozen Aqua-Gray 8K water washable resin seems to perform very well from what I've read. It's twice the price of other resins.

Which printer do you use?

[mikegr]

I've been using Eleggo standard grey V1 for a long time, then V2 now. It's not washable with water, only with alcohol, but it's cheap because it's not very expensive, and it doesn't smell.

I've made all my models with it. Anycubic resins are not great in general, too brittle, having used them at the beginning, 3 years ago.

The Phrozen Aqua-Gray 8K water washable resin seems to perform very well from what I've read. It's twice the price of other resins.

Which printer do you use?

if you ask me i use Mono 4k

[Fliger747]

I have a jug of the Phrozen Aqua gray 8K. Perhaps I should try it again, with initial disappointment as to detail compared to the Rapid Black I returned to the old stuff. I recently ordered a new jug of RB which took 2 weeks to arrive, was not in factory box packaging, open and not full. EvilBay sometimes not a reliable source!

Pascal certainly has impressive results!

Tom

[mikegr]

While I am getting somewhere with the exposure settings today I have 4 failed prints. All items didn't stick to the plate not even the test print. I had some issues in the past but bow suddenly got much worse. I will lower my speed to just 1sec and increase bottom layer exposure to 50 sec as suggested by resin manufacturer. Otherwise I will use the second new vat I have see if the fep is damaged.