Calling all Iowa-class (BB-61) fans

[Harquebus]

Not bad, but your bow is way off.

No, your (BB-63) waterline is lower. It was just a representation more for the sake of example than for accuracy but I knew someone might take issue with it. Again, I was going off my photo. See link of BB-61.

[Harquebus]

That is pretty close to what I came up with. The results of which are visible here for everyone's comments.

https://goo.gl/photos/SBuKGwXcs1La6sjd7

My drawing is pretty crappy but I tried to indicate that not all of the plating lines are equally spaced nor perfectly straight and some seem to converge before sort of blending in or going flush with the surrounding steel. I'd be willing to make a visit to Norfolk VA, stand on the quay and take successive photos of the starboard hull of BB-64 as I inched along to the stern. Then I could "knit" them all together....and profit!

But that's not a bad effort at all. At this juncture I am also not as concerned with the vertical plate lines or welds as I'm sure that's a documentation nightmare of epic proportions.

[Thomas E. Johnson]

T.E.J. wrote -

I placed the plates according to Eduards instructions.

Personally, I agree with the dimensions taken off WISCONSIN as described in the photo and will lay out my hull accordingly. I don't believe Eduard's instruction are completely correct.

That may well be, but I measured out where to place the template each time as instructed in Eduard's instructions, then placed the template, drew in where the plates were supposed to go, then looked at photos. Photos do pretty much show plating in the spots where the template as you end up locating them. So if it's off it isn't so by much, and I'm not going to worry about it.

https://goo.gl/photos/LuCEZXtk3cb5FsEn9

[lgmccauley]

I original posted this in the Scracthbuild Forum, but unfortunately I received no replies. I know numerous contributors to this forum have built an Iowa and I sure they will have the information I need.


I am currently building a 1/192 Missouri and am trying to find a putty that I could use for foring the aft 40mm gun sponsons and the bow anchor bolsters. I used something in the past for similar situations, but I can't for the life of me remember what it was or even if it would still be available today.

Larry

[BB62vet]

Larry wrote:

I original posted this in the Scracthbuild Forum, but unfortunately I received no replies. I know numerous contributors to this forum have built an Iowa and I sure they will have the information I need.
I am currently building a 1/192 Missouri and am trying to find a putty that I could use for forming the aft 40mm gun sponsons and the bow anchor bolsters. I used something in the past for similar situations, but I can't for the life of me remember what it was or even if it would still be available today.

Larry,

Sorry, but I don't often read the scratchbuild forum. I am currently bashing/scratching a 1967-68 version of NEW JERSEY from the 1:200 Trumpeter kit. As for your question, I can make a couple suggestions, but whether it is the right one, might be up for debate:

1) You could purchase the 2 step resin casting materials from Micro Mark (online) in which you mold your parts from A & B, let harden, remove from mold, clean up and so forth. I've used this material for making small life raft packs for my project. IF MEASURED OUT CORRECTLY, the two parts will give a good hard finished plastic - but, that's the key - measuring & mixing properly for good results.

2) And this suggestion may be overkill - Bondo General Purpose Plastic Putty (#20052). It too is a 2 step method that gives a good hard plastic when cured. But, a 1.9 lb can (you can get this at Lowe's Home Improvement) is a bit much for those small parts. Anyhow, mixing the putty with the included hardener properly and then molding might also do the trick. If you were to mix this and put into a small round or square mold for curing, you could then shape as necessary and adhere to the hull. I'm actually using this material for filling the open hull cavity where the kit hull needs to be ground down and reshaped correctly. So, I needed a couple cans worth of material right off the bat.

I would suggest Squadron Shop White Stuff Plastic Putty, but I'm not sure that it would actually harden into a good solid mass for further shaping and finishing.

Hope this helps!

Hank

[Fliger747]

I still have a 1:192 Missouri in finishing touches stage while I have worked on Alaska. The Anchor bolsters and hawse lips on the Forecastle were cast with bondo in a plain rubber mold from masters. Epoxy also works for small castings. The aft 40 mm tub sponsons were made from sheet styrene much in the same way the originals were plated.

Cheers: T

[ArizonaBB39]

Milliput sculpting putty, like what figure modelers use, is what I think you're looking for.

[lgmccauley]

Thanks for the info guys. I knew you would come through for me.

Larry

[Thomas E. Johnson]

I remember reading in another thread but I don't remember which, that some of the watertight doors and hatches along the bulkheads on the 1/200 Missouri are of misrepresented types. Does anybody have a list of which ones need to be corrected to what, so I know which PE ones to put in their place? I don't have the floating drydock blueprints (to money tight to purchase them at this time), just the drawings and Stillwell's book.

[steinerman]

I remember reading in another thread but I don't remember which, that some of the watertight doors and hatches along the bulkheads on the 1/200 Missouri are of misrepresented types. Does anybody have a list of which ones need to be corrected to what, so I know which PE ones to put in their place? I don't have the floating drydock blueprints (to money tight to purchase them at this time), just the drawings and Stillwell's book.

Tom, I just sent you a PM.

[lgmccauley]

On page 88 of Stillwell's book on the Missouri, the tops of the 5" mounts are painted haze gray as opposed to deck blue. Was this done at Pearl Harbor prior to her trip back to the USA, or if not when? It also shows a set of steps just to the right of mount 53 (forgive me if I got the number wrong). Would they have been installed temporarily for the Navy Day review?

Larry

[Harquebus]

I remember reading in another thread but I don't remember which, that some of the watertight doors and hatches along the bulkheads on the 1/200 Missouri are of misrepresented types. Does anybody have a list of which ones need to be corrected to what, so I know which PE ones to put in their place? I don't have the floating drydock blueprints (to money tight to purchase them at this time), just the drawings and Stillwell's book.

Tom, I just sent you a PM.

It would be nice to have that info shared to this thread, if it wouldn't be too much to ask.

[bigjimslade]

Since there's all this concern about hull plating lines and detail and the fact that it exists and would be visible in the larger scales, I would propose a joint mission to... map the IOWA class plate lines.

I have the tabular data for the hull plating. Except for the top of the sheer strake I have never bothered to pull it out.

[lgmccauley]

Milliput sculpting putty, like what figure modelers use, is what I think you're looking for.

I bought some of the Milliput and it worked great. I like the fact that you have about 1-2 hours of working time and you can smooth it out with a wet finger.
Thanks again.

Larry

[Thomas E. Johnson]

I'm wondering how much work it would take to convert 1/200 Missouri into the 1980s version of the ship? I'm thinking that it would not be all that difficult providing Pontos can be persuaded to make a custom wooden deck and the Helo pad, and Shape Ways to make The modern weaponry , and some scratch building.

[Fliger747]

My 1:192 scratch project did exactly this, convert my existing somewhat ancient model to an upgraded version. A bigger project than one might imagine, but then I was scratching everything. The advantage was however that I had access to the real ship for many hundreds of photos. BTW, the helo deck itself is not wood.

Hank Strub is in the process of recreating New Jersey during his time in Vietnam Nam.

T

[Thomas E. Johnson]

My 1:192 scratch project did exactly this, convert my existing somewhat ancient model to an upgraded version. A bigger project than one might imagine, but then I was scratching everything. The advantage was however that I had access to the real ship for many hundreds of photos. BTW, the helo deck itself is not wood.

Hank Strub is in the process of recreating New Jersey during his time in Vietnam Nam.

T

I know he is. With the modern tools that we have today, I still don't think it would be all that difficult. It would be very expensive however, with all of the parts that will have to be 3-D printed and custom etched.

And yeah I know the Helo deck isn't wood. It would have to be custom etched also, along with all of the deck area that has tie down brackets.

I think it is very doable, but like I said, and extremely expensive project.

I just completed the 1/350 1991 Missouri. Hope to get some pictures up on here soon.

[AluminiumCloud]

Is RandyM still active? I am unable to contact him via PM as I am new to the forum and that feature is currently disabled. I would like to inquire about his hull correction for the 1/200 Trumpeter Missouri... His work on this correction was featured on page 89 of this thread. I have reason to travel through San Diego on a few occasions each year and would be interested in commissioning a 3D print of his correction for bow and stern, depending on the cost involved.

RandyM, if you happen to read this feel free to PM me if you are able. Failing that, if someone could PM him on my behalf directing him to this post, it would be greatly appreciated!!

Regards
Dan

[BB62vet]

Dan wrote:

RandyM still active? I am unable to contact him via PM as I am new to the forum and that feature is currently disabled. I would like to inquire about his hull correction for the 1/200 Trumpeter Missouri... His work on this correction was featured on page 89 of this thread. I have reason to travel through San Diego on a few occasions each year and would be interested in commissioning a 3D print of his correction for bow and stern, depending on the cost involved.

As of last fall the short answer is - NO - his mod proved to be extremely expensive and he did not pursue it. I also was hoping for a positive turn on this, but it hasn't happened.

You'll have to do it the old fashioned way like I'm having to do also - modifying it by hand!

Hank

[Thomas E. Johnson]

Dan wrote:

RandyM still active? I am unable to contact him via PM as I am new to the forum and that feature is currently disabled. I would like to inquire about his hull correction for the 1/200 Trumpeter Missouri... His work on this correction was featured on page 89 of this thread. I have reason to travel through San Diego on a few occasions each year and would be interested in commissioning a 3D print of his correction for bow and stern, depending on the cost involved.

As of last fall the short answer is - NO - his mod proved to be extremely expensive and he did not pursue it. I also was hoping for a positive turn on this, but it hasn't happened.

You'll have to do it the old fashioned way like I'm having to do also - modifying it by hand!

Hank

I'm also debating whether or not to try a fix with some Apoxie Scuplt before I start gluing anything top side.