The Ship Model Forum

I am using ChatGPT as a translator and specifically ask for a 'nautically correct translation'. In most cases it is pretty much spot on, in both directions, German to English and the other way around. Much better than Google, for instance. ChatGPT even suggests that it can use 'model fora jargon' (which I try to avoid actually).

Ah, okay.
That’s good to know. I actually just use Google Translate for the sake of simplicity.

I find that bit about "model forum jargon" funny.
Maybe I should try using ChatGPT when I come across maritime parts I’m not familiar with.
And if all else fails, I’ve always got you.

You are making splendid and very clean progress on the model
The model is looking great (and in theory ) --you are getting quite near to completion!

You are right that Google translator gets 'ueberfordert ' ! ( overwhelmed)

( I use it fuer French, Polish and Spanish...)==> and get some interesting words in nautical and classic car language!

In my view of the names for the mast supporting cables --I would define as below
--albeit as a Sailing Yacht racer....( Regatta segler )

The cables that support any mast sideways-( laterally ) from whatever level of the mast would be called shrouds.
( upper and lower shrouds )
when these reach the deck they can have also fwd or aft component.
( see a sailing ship-all shrouds go angled from vertical to aft -to counteract the loads of sails from aft to fwd

Stays that go Fwd of the mast--directly fore and aft or at an angle less that 45 deg outwards of the mast would be called Forestays
( can be lower and upper )

Stays that go Aft of the mast--directly fore and aft or at an angle less that 45 deg outwards of the mast would be called Backstays
( can be lower and upper )

Hope that helps -- carry on as you are --I envy your sharpness of build!

Jim Baumann

Thanks for the kind words, Jim!

And yes, you’re absolutely right: we’re on the home stretch! Almost done – but only almost. I still have one or two pretty tough nuts to crack before this project is finally finished. But it’s getting there!

Of course, automatic translators hit their limits sometimes with our technical jargon. Still, I’m incredibly grateful for Google and the like. Without them, I wouldn’t be able to share my German build logs with you all or connect with such an awesome group of model builders. A huge thank you to experts like you and Eberhard, who keep whipping my semi-pro maritime knowledge into shape! For instance, until your post, I had absolutely no idea that even the angles of the cables could change the actual name of the part.

I’m a firefighter by trade, and my only connection to shipping is that I absolutely love building ship models. It's mind-blowing how much I’ve learned about maritime jargon and the history of these old steel buckets just during the construction of this old ship-of-the-line.

That’s exactly what adds to the appeal of our hobby for me: we don’t just build models, we casually dive into the history of technology, discover new connections, and constantly learn something new along the way.

And when you get the chance to admire a fellow modeler's work and gain new insights into another chapter of maritime history at the same time, that’s just a truly wonderful thing!

A lovely Sunday to all my fellow ship modellers!
For me, today has turned out to be a particularly wonderful Sunday, because I’ve managed to take a small but very satisfying step forward with my build. To be honest, when I first started thinking about it, I wasn’t entirely sure how to tackle it properly. All the more reason to be pleased with the result, and of course, I’d like to share it with you. So today, I have a very short build update for you.
But let’s take things one step at a time!
I had to come up with a solution for the tackle on the crane boom. Since I’ve made some fairly substantial changes to the original build sequence of my model, I could no longer use the photo-etched part originally intended to represent the block-and-tackle assembly. And to be perfectly honest, I’ve never been particularly keen on those flat, two-dimensional ropes represented by photo-etched parts anyway. So, I needed to find another solution!
I therefore took the photo-etched parts apart and separated the blocks from the running lines.



So far, so good. But now came the real challenge: making my very first block with a proper sheave of my own!
Incidentally, I hope I’m getting the terminology more or less right this time. If not, please feel free to correct me!
First, I rummaged through my old box of photo-etched parts. And lo and behold, I actually found a few suitable sheaves that were just right for what I had in mind.
Next, I dismantled the photo-etched blocks further until I had the two halves of each block separated. I then soldered a suitable sheave onto one of the halves.



After that, I put the second half back in place. I also inserted a small piece of profile at the top to form the attachment point for the eye. This allowed me to solder everything together neatly without distorting the delicate little component.
And then the moment finally arrived: my very first scratch-built block with a proper sheave was complete!



I’m already really pleased with this little prototype. At last, a nice, three-dimensional sheave that actually looks the part!



And now comes the real icing on the cake for me: I can simply reeve my rigging thread through the block. No more flat, photo-etched appearance — just a solution that looks much closer to the real thing.



In theory, this means I’m now even able to make a proper tackle — or, to be more precise, a working purchase! And with my crane boom, I could actually lower one of my lovely 3D-printed pinnaces into the water, if only the boom weren’t glued firmly in place!
And all of this in 1:200 scale!



What makes me particularly happy is that I haven’t simply settled for some sort of compromise. I’ve found a solution that works well both in practice and in terms of appearance.
If this isn’t a fantastic Sunday, I don’t know what is!
I wish you all a lovely and relaxing Sunday. And, as always, suggestions, tips and constructive criticism are more than welcome!

Joelle,

Excellent work on the block & tackle!!!

First - Yes, your naming of parts is correct! The "sheave" is the inner pulley that is the key to this piece of equipment.

Second - Your "out of the box" thinking on 2D PE parts is very similar to mine - I really don't care to use PE now that 3D printing is available, etc. The end results are SO-O-O much better...and realistic.

As I do my own 3D design/printing, I've come up with a small group of cargo handling parts that are common to most cranes/cargo booms. A couple of my 1/48 scale blocks are here - I've designed these at 1/48 scale and can up/down scale for whatever project scale I'm working in. Very little, if any adjustment to the design is required. Comparing the upper 12" block to yours and you can see you're on the right track! My larger scale blocks can also be designed with a rotating sheave, but for 1/200 scale, I haven't found a need for this yet.

So, keep going with your specialized parts - they look great AND perhaps some PE vendors will get the hint!!!

Hank

Good morning, Hank!

First of all, a big thank you for your post!

And phew, I’m glad I finally managed to use the correct terminology for that part!

Yes, photo-etched parts really are a blessing and a curse at the same time. Nevertheless, I’ll be sticking with them for the most part. I’d like to explain in a little more detail why that is.

But first, I have to say that I’m really impressed by your 3D designs. Hats off to you for what you’ve been creating! I think it’s fantastic when someone has the skills to bring their own ideas to life like that.

And that brings me to the first reason why Pontos will remain my personal favourite: quite simply, I’m not capable of doing anything like that myself. I’ve actually tried my hand at 3D design once, of course on a completely different level from your fantastic work, but I quickly realised that designing and modelling just aren’t my strengths. On top of that, all I have at the moment is an FDM printer. Getting a resin printer is certainly something I could consider, but that alone wouldn’t solve everything.
That said, I do use 3D-printed parts in my builds these days. For my Mikasa, for example, I’m using printed searchlights, anchors and pinnaces. However, I buy ready-made aftermarket parts rather than designing them myself. Most of my modelling projects are in the mainstream range, where there’s now a huge selection of aftermarket accessories to choose from.
To take the level of detail up another notch, I also like using styrene profiles and modifying the photo-etched parts to suit my own ideas. This allows me to customise quite a lot without having to design every single component from scratch.

But there’s one point where I completely agree with you: some aftermarket sets have a lot more potential than their manufacturers are making use of! As customers, we shouldn’t be afraid to drop them a few hints about that.
For example, I regularly get annoyed when an already rather expensive photo-etch set doesn’t include a decent set of double-bar anchor chains, but instead comes with simple, rather cheap-looking jewellery chains. These are exactly the kinds of details where I’d like to see manufacturers put a little more emphasis on quality and modern solutions.
I’m not entirely without hope, though. It seems that even Pontos has realised that 3D printing opens up a whole new range of possibilities. The more recent upgrade sets already contain a noticeably larger number of 3D-printed components. That’s encouraging, and I’m genuinely curious to see how things will develop over the next few years.

So, once again, thanks for giving me something to think about, Hank! I really enjoy discussions like this and the opportunity to gain new perspectives.

That’s exactly what makes our hobby, and exchanging ideas with fellow ship modellers, so fascinating to me!

Joelle,

Well, I'm glad that my comments are helpful to you! And - I appreciate the kind remarks you made regarding my 3D efforts. Yes, I too have noted in some recent kit offerings that the PE level has somewhat increased, as well as some mfg'rs now offering a small amount of detailed parts being offered as 3D printed additions.

You brought up a sore subject with me - anchor chains. I agree with you that these could and SHOULD be molded (or printed) as accurately as possible and most today are still nothing more than dime store trinket "jewelry", IMHO. Which is why several years ago my "long range internet" modeling cohort and I were able to figure out the KEY to 3D printing actual chains - i.e., ones with separate links so they act as real chains act - they're flexible. It's all in how you ORIENT and support the parts when you print them. I've been successful in creating chains as small as 1/200 scale - I rarely do 1/350th scale or 1/700 scale anymore, so I haven't attempted to try those. Right now I'm toying with a possible 1/200 scale BB-55 and have been working on various parts to see how well they come out. Orientation of the parts seems to be the key to successful prints on a consistent basis - and how these parts are supported while printing. I'm not so sure the "pros" have all the answers!! Extreme supporting has it's negatives - mainly being the impossibility of successfully removing those supports without damaging the part itself. And I'm working on correcting that method without forsaking detail.

Anyhow, I also think that PE still has a place in modeling and your abilities to create "better than the average part" in this medium proves exactly that. It is all in how the ship model "orgamist" learns how to bend and fold all the various angles needed to turn that 2D part into a 3D masterpiece. You seem to be well on your way!

Kudos!

Hank

Morning Hank,

You’re spot on—it’s all about knowing how! In 3D printing, the right support structure often makes the crucial difference between frustration and a masterpiece. It’s a stroke of luck that the aftermarket scene is so well-stocked these days. I always get my anchor chains from 3D Wild—they’re genuinely good. Just like yours, they’re articulated—almost like real, heavy-duty chains. That makes installation infinitely easier, especially in the tight, tricky space between the hawsehole and the anchor. If you’re planning to stow a second, spare anchor, you absolutely need that level of flexibility. With rigid parts, there’s just no way to achieve a natural-looking chain run; the geometry in that area is far too complex.
Like this:



A *North Carolina* in a massive 1:200 scale?! Wow—what an absolute beast! I’m already incredibly curious to see how this magnificent piece will turn out.

And absolutely—let’s not write off photo-etched parts; they still have a very valid place. In one specific area, they still outperform 3D printing by a long shot: material thinness. Whether it’s delicate splinter shields, the angular windows on the wheelhouse, or fine bulkheads—no printer on the planet can currently match that level of extreme thinness. Of course, the final result with photo-etched parts hinges entirely on the bending and folding process. Once you’ve mastered that, it looks brilliant—but if not, the metal is unforgiving.

It’s a real pleasure geeking out over this stuff! I’m virtually tipping my hat to you, Hank.
Keep in touch!

I think photoetching and 3D-printing are complementing technologies and they complement in turn traditional substractive manufacturing techniques, such as turning or milling or the good old handtools.

For instance, building up these metal-frame blocks from photoetched parts is exactly the right procedure for such parts. 3D-printing my be possible, but probably would render the shells of the blocks too thick. To the contrary, blocks with traditional wooden shells would be better 3D-printed.

I’m completely with you on that, Eberhard!

Often, it’s precisely the successful combination of different materials, ideas, and approaches that ultimately makes all the difference. It’s this very interplay that makes things exciting—and shows just how diverse the paths to a truly great result can be!

The moment has arrived.
The masts are in place, and my *Mikasa* is gradually taking on its final profile. Another milestone reached!
Aligning the masts, however, was a bit of a nerve-wracking experience. Everything had to be positioned precisely within the short working time of the adhesive—a trade-off for having installed the lower third so early on. But as you can see, it all worked out perfectly!



Afterward, I carefully laid the ship on its side to clean up and conceal the seam on the mast. From this point on, the utmost care is required at every step to ensure that the components already installed aren't damaged. My assembly stand continues to be an invaluable help.



Next, it was time for the remaining pulleys—soldered…



…and then painted. These small components will later contribute to a cohesive, well-balanced look for the rigging.



For the next step, I’ll be using the blocks to assemble the complex tackle systems for the crane boom. That brings us one step closer to completing the rigging!
So, fellow modelers, stay on board—there’s still plenty to do!

Back again!

Thanks Eberhard.

Since assembling the blocks into a complete tackle system went much more smoothly than expected, I’ve got another quick update from my shipyard today.
To be honest, I was a bit apprehensive about this particular step. Normally, I could have easily prepared the entire block-and-tackle assembly beforehand and then mounted it onto the model along with the mast and boom. However, due to my slightly modified construction approach, I had no choice but to thread the tackle into place between components that were already installed—not exactly the most convenient starting point, considering how delicate everything is!
As you may recall, I had previously modified the blocks, turning the original two-dimensional photo-etched parts into three-dimensional sheaves. While that was initially just an aesthetic choice, it turned out to be a stroke of pure luck.
So, time to get to work! First, I attached a long piece of rigging line to the first block…



…and then proceeded, sheave by sheave. By carefully threading the line through each block, the complete tackle system gradually took shape. A small piece of adhesive tape helped keep the line under tension, ensuring that the sections I’d already threaded didn’t slip out of place. Sometimes, here in the shipyard, you just have to conjure up a third hand for yourself!



But as I turned the model around, a question occurred to me—one I’d completely overlooked in my excitement over successfully threading the line: where exactly am I supposed to secure the loose ends of the tackle?



But a simple solution was found for this, too. At the point where, according to Pontos, the photo-etched cables were supposed to be attached, I simply added a small eyelet. This allowed the thread to be secured neatly and the tackle to be finished off properly.



And with that, another delicate component is on board! With such intricate work, I’m always relieved when everything ends up in its intended place without anything being accidentally bent or damaged.



I think the result is well worth seeing—the tackle looks really sharp! The three-dimensional blocks stand out much better, and the overall arrangement looks clean and well-proportioned.



I’m especially pleased that the tackle now hangs from the mast at exactly the right angles. This marks the successful completion of this small but significant part of the rigging process.
Now, it’s time to move on to the main rigging. Let’s see what little challenges the next phase in our shipyard has in store!

Wow! That is very well done. Intricate, very neat and very realistic!

That’s very kind of you, Martin. I’ll try to carry on like this.

Let’s move on to a stage of the build that I’ve been giving quite a bit of thought to for some time.

It all started when I installed those extremely delicate brackets with the small sheaves on the platform’s gusset plates. By that point, I had learned that the rudder angle indicators would be rigged through these little sheaves. And that got me wondering: Would these delicate structures be strong enough to withstand the tension of the rigging later on? After all, I didn’t want the first parts to snap off as soon as I started tensioning the lines.
As it turns out, my concerns were fortunately unfounded! But more on that in a moment.



Before the rudder angle indicators could come aboard, however, the small signal bodies first had to be made. And that’s when my friend Ingo from a German forum came into the picture. He very kindly used his new resin printer to print several of these signals in different sizes and sent them over to me.
A big thank-you once again, dear Ingo! This kind of friendly support is what makes our shared hobby so enjoyable.



The next step was to drill a hole in each of the little signal bodies so that the rigging thread could be attached. Cleverly, Ingo had already included a small centring mark in the printed parts. This made it easy to position the drill right in the middle without having to fiddle around too much.
A tiny drop of superglue in the hole, the rigging thread inserted, and the connection was made.



Naturally, I wanted to make sure everything would hold before installing the signals. So I gently applied tension to both of them to test the strength of the glued joints. After all, the rudder angle indicators should not only look the part but also withstand the tension required for the lines to run properly.
The test was successful, and while I was at it, I gave both signal bodies their finishing coat of paint.



With all the preparation taken care of, it was time to get them aboard!



Thanks to the relatively large scale of the model, installation turned out to be pleasantly straightforward. All I had to do was lead the rigging threads over the sheaves already mounted on the brackets and then secure the lower ends.
And there you have it! The delicate brackets held up without a fuss. My initial concerns really were unfounded after all. Sometimes, as a modeller, it’s nice to be pleasantly surprised!



And so, another small but lovely detail has been added to the ship. One more step on the long journey into the wonderful world of rigging is complete!



Until the next stage of the build, mates!

Hi everyone!

Back in the workshop, we’re moving on to the next big step: we’re attaching the guy ropes. Once again, the assembly stand is a huge help here. It works perfectly as a hand rest whilst tying the knots, or keeps the lines neatly taut with the help of a bit of adhesive tape.



Let’s keep it brief for now: all the backstays and signal lines at the stern have been successfully fitted! I pulled the signal lines using white rigging twine and then dyed them with a brown wash.



I simply can’t get enough of admiring this complex, delicate web of threads. It’s absolutely fascinating how all these details breathe life into the model.



Unfortunately, the next minor setback wasn’t long in coming. Towards the bow, the cutters and the guy ropes got in each other’s way. So I carefully removed them from the boat decks again. It’s a good thing I rarely use superglue these days.



I’d actually done a lot of test fittings with all sorts of components beforehand. Precisely because I realised I’d made quite a few changes. But as you know: you only find out whether everything actually fits together in the end during the actual building process.
And in this case, the cutter was simply a good bit too far forward. The green arrows show exactly where the boat cradles were originally positioned.



But as we all know, there’s nothing an ambitious model-maker can’t sort out! So, without further ado, I fetched some paint and a wash, painted over the old marks and repositioned the little boat. And lo and behold: it fits perfectly again and the rope runs past it smoothly.



Everything’s back on track – time to get on with threading the ropes!

Good morning, fellow model-makers!

I’m currently in the middle of the wire-pulling phase and am once again getting closer to a little scene I wanted to create as part of this project: a sailor is supposed to be in the process of hoisting signal flags.
And what’s the first thing you need for that, of course? That’s right, signal flags!

So I started off by following the usual procedure and applied my decal flags to thin aluminium foil.
The result? Well, let’s just say: there’s room for improvement.
The aluminium foil is simply too stiff, especially for the small flags. I couldn’t quite manage to achieve a nice, natural drape with it. And when something about the model doesn’t convince me, there’s no point in sugar-coating it.
So: experiment abandoned and off to the bin with them!



And then I remembered Marijn’s build report on his Victory. He’d modelled his flags using tissue paper, and I’d really liked that.
As I already use this material for my tarpaulins and boat covers anyway, I thought to myself: why shouldn’t it work for the signal flags too? It’s certainly worth a try!

So, straight to work!
First of all, I painted the future flag. I deliberately left it a bit longer so that I could wrap it neatly around the rigging twine and secure it later.



Next, I went back to the tried-and-tested method I also use for my tarpaulins: the flag is coated with glue and carefully shaped into the desired form. This allows the fabric to drape beautifully and, hopefully, gives it exactly the natural folds I’d imagined.
To test it out, I first attached the whole thing provisionally to a figure.
And then it was time to unveil the first test flag!
My initial letter gives a glimpse of what might be possible with the signal flags later on.



Yesss, I really like this!
The drape looks much more natural to my taste, and the flag has exactly the light, fabric-like feel I’d imagined.
Of course, this is still just a first attempt, but we’re definitely heading in the right direction!

Now, naturally, I’m curious to hear your thoughts: what do you think? Is this little test flag presentable, or do you have any tips on how to make signal flags look particularly good on a miniature scale?

I look forward to your feedback and wish you all a lovely day of model-making!

You are certainly on the right track, but there should be a fold beginning in the upper corner, where flag is attached to the line. The fold becomes flatter as the wind increases. If there is any wind, also the flies out in a slight catena going through the flag.

The aluminium foil as such probably is not the problem, but the three layers of decal-foil-decal are too stiff.

Hello Eberhard!

No, it’s not down to the three layers. I’ve already made quite a few flags using the aluminium foil technique – for my Bismarck, for example. It works perfectly well at this size.



However, I simply prefer the texture you get with tissue paper. I’ve also seen Marijn’s flags and was really impressed. That’s why I’d like to give this technique a go.

What I don’t quite understand yet, though, is the crease you’re referring to. Perhaps you could explain that to me in a bit more detail?

Joelle wrote: Thu Oct 29, 2026 5:15 am Now, naturally, I’m curious to hear your thoughts: what do you think? Is this little test flag presentable, or do you have any tips on how to make signal flags look particularly good on a miniature scale?

Personally, I think it looks great.