1/72 Yamato - or a steep learning curve!

[HvyCgn9]

Those turrets look good Herb! I wouldn't have had the patience for making that many!!

Do you mean the small revell type glue for plastic? With the needle type of nozzle? I've seen different methods. I use a piece of 0.3 or 0.5mm steel wire to poke through. Others just hold a lighter below the needle to burn/melt out the blocking glue.

I do the same (Both methods) Just remember 2 remove the needle tube 1st before using a flame on it!! Or this could occur

Cheers Bruce

[Capit�o Norbert]

Herbie i like e so much your guns production...superb

[herbieham]

I never knew you could do that to unblock the stupid things!

so many half full bottles I can unblock now.................LOL

Umm CAPITO Norbet -did you try to E mail me?
(some one did)
Thanks for offer re guns -but I would not be able to afford it.......... (we be's doing it tough at the moment)

[Ticonderoga]

Thanks for the tips on unblocking the glue guys, I will give it a go!
Love the work on this model......


Andrew

[DrPR]

Some (all?) CA adhesives will liquify at about 100C (212F) the boiling point of water. We used CA to fasten lens carriers into tubes on a custom microscope we manufactured. If something happened and a lens was fastened in the wrong place we just put the parts in very hot water, removed them, cleaned things up and reglued them.

You can also use a heat gun to separate metal parts that are glued with CA. Don't try it with plastics!

Another trick with small parts is to heat them with a soldering iron.

Obviously, you don't want to use CA on anything that will get very warm.

[Capit�o Norbert]

I never knew you could do that to unblock the stupid things!

so many half full bottles I can unblock now.................LOL

Umm CAPITO Norbet -did you try to E mail me?
(some one did)
Thanks for offer re guns -but I would not be able to afford it.......... (we be's doing it tough at the moment)

Hi HERBIE i don't remember senting you....

[herbieham]

OK -this a warts and all story

Cocked up the spray job on the hull - there will be a delay as we sand, sand, sand away again...........
Also took the funnel in to show some work mates -and dropped it.........................OUCH
Muchus repairs needed

Its an up and down journey this hey!

[ozpirate]

OK -this a warts and all story
Cocked up the spray job on the hull - there will be a delay as we sand, sand, sand away again...........
Also took the funnel in to show some work mates -and dropped it.........................OUCH
Muchus repairs needed
Its an up and down journey this hey!

I know the feeling mate. For the last few months my model was on a trailer outdoors by a friend. Couldn't do much work on the boat but did manage to get the trailer done at least. Now shes back home I see some of my work didn't fair well under the extreme weather we had here and traveling on the trailer. Found cracks in the hull where the deck attached and the stabilizers on the side of the ship were breaking off, (To light a material). Two days ago I repaired that at least by replacing the material with some much stronger material. Shouldn't move now I hope.
Next, work on fixing them cracks. I have already cleared our the old putty and pit some screws in place so the new putty has a good hold. When that is set I will fiberglass on that area on the inside of the ship to add more strength in this area of the model. Finally all that work I did on the hanger deck was scraped due to warping in the heat we had. A person from TF72 said scrap it and make only a small box since most people would see it anyway. There is one good thing, I built the model in fiberglass and this makes for easy repairs and modifications. If this had been in wood, well it would have been a new problems to solve. I'm glad this happened now since if this had happened after I had the deck in place would have been a nightmare to fix then. So as you said a steep learning curve!

[HvyCgn9]

That suks mate!! painting can be extremely frustrating I hope you can get it all rubbed back ok?

I have found that Automotive Spray paints (acrylic) types are the easiest 2 use on hull's. I used a base coat of matt black under everything first then painted the anti fouling with Red oxide primer and used a light grey primer for the upper hull, which will eventually be re painted with Tamiya Haze Gray spray cans!! probably about 6 of em' (about $70 of paint!!) I was going to use gray primer on the superstructure but it doesn't give the finish I wanted so Tamiya tiny spray tins have been enlisted for the final paint job. Fortunately I have managed 2 spread the cost out....the superstructure on USS Long Beach used 10 little tins of spray paint!!

Best wishes mate!!

Bruce

[herbieham]

OK, after a month of domestic disasters -involving building a new roof for a shed, motor car dramas and the like -we are back building
I have the bottom of the hull painted now, continuing 25 MM turret building (scrapped those first ones as no good) and will be painting hull top soon.
I need to find best method to attach deck to hull -very, very worried about expansion issues .

And every time I look at the pile of R/C stuff i have -I shudder -not a clue what to do there yet! LOL

Photos soon
(may have fallen of front page, but the beast lives, and work continues!)

[Reid]

Here is Southern California... we use flat headed screws to tie the deck down to supports inside the hull.. that way they sit just under the level of the deck so we can putty over them and nobody will ever know they are there... then we use auto-body filler (bondo) to fill the gaps between the hull and deck. Our decks are made out of acrylic sheet because it holds up the best in the harsh sun.

[HvyCgn9]

I would use a 3mm ply deck liberally soaked/sealed with thinned resin then screwed and glued to your cross members, very little expansion issues with ply.

Cheers Bruce

[herbieham]

cheers bruce - sounds the go!

[herbieham]

slowly getting bits done -guns under mass production


I have severe tendercitiss of the right arm -can only do about an hours plastic work at a time at the moment

[herbieham]

Hope to do the grey next week -broke again!

[Dave Wooley]

Hi Herb A mammoth project in more ways than one but you are getting there
Dave Wooley

[herbieham]

a lick of paint...............

[herbieham]

i have thought long and hard about how to present model. I studied very hard the color photos of the nagato wars end -and she is a mess.
if yamato had not been sunk -i beleive she must have looked shop worn as well. I also beleive that after being bombed in Kure -but not hit, a few port moves, a rushed lets firt as many guns as we can period, and everything else she experienced in the last weeks, no way was she looking pretty.
So, i am going the shop worn, weathered route
I think its more interesting anyway.............
(My model my choice too i suppose!)

[herbieham]

just mucking about with 25mms -trying to see how they will look

[ARH]

As you say Herbie, its your model, paint it as you like, looking good.