The Ship Model Forum

Thank you.

There is a complication. The Artist Hobby deck edge treading is one large ring of photo etched brass that surrounds the planked flight deck. However, the bow and stern sections have short sections of flat plating between the treaded edges, meant to represent the non-planked portions of the flight deck. Nicely done, they also come with tie-down holes etched into them, which are also replicated on the AH brass flight deck, and also on the wooden deck sticker.

To provide the same holes on the styrene planking would be a daunting task: my rough estimate is that I would need to replicate over 2500 additional holes. Setting aside the amount of tedious work involved, I�m on the fence about adding these holes for this scale. Technically speaking, the visible portion of an actual IJN tie-down was 4.5�/115mm across. In 1/700 scale, that would be the equivalent of a #96 micro drill bit at 0.0063 inches. They would be barely visible. I could bump up the sizing to something like 0.01 inches, but it would still be a lot of work for what I feel is a marginal effect. And, now that I think of it, there is another issue. If I were to drill holes in the white styrene, then every hole would have to be handpainted grey.

So, for now, I have decided to omit the holes, cut away the flat brass plate sections and use 0.02� thick styrene sheet instead.

Should I ultimately choose to add tie-downs, I do have an alternative. Rainbow does make a metal template for 1/700 tie-down holes. However, I can�t use it in conjunction with the Artist Hobby configuration because the distance between tie-down holes are of a different spacing. Nor would I use it to drill holes. So, the most likely alternative would be spray paint over it to produce the holes. I�d have to experiment first to see if that�s actually viable, particularly since this is not a mask. At some point, I can imagine that I�ll probably experiment with that approach on some test surfaces, just to see how feasible it is.

(Side note: this kit�s flight deck layout is a configuration chosen by Fujimi, and subsequently by Artist Hobby and Flyhawk, based on their interpretation of available photos and reference material. While other sources do agree with the depiction of the bow�s metal plating, some differ by showing the wood planking extending all the way aft to the striping on the round down, similar to the Shokaku class. Still, this kit�s depiction of the aft flight deck plating is not without precedent, as Soryu�s aft flight deck is laid out in a similar fashion. Without more factual evidence, it�s impossible to say one is correct. I�ve chosen to stick with the kit version.)

Excellent WIP, Dan! I�m in love with the colour of the deck, too.

Dan have you consider drawing a custom decal with black dots representing the tie downs?

Thx, Vladi. Yep, I agree that the color turned out well.

That�s a very interesting thought, Joe. I confess that I do have reservations about such a decal. Scale applicability notwithstanding, I would be reluctant to place a deck sized decal on the flight deck. I can foresee issues with maintaining the fidelity of the planking, even with the generous use of Microsol solution. Plus, there�s still a lot deck related equipment left to install that would make glue applications challenging. But, I will keep it in mind. Sounds like more experimentation will be needed.

I have added scratch-built rain gutters but, prior to doing so, I felt it wise at this point to remove all the molded-on lattice work that lies under the aft end of the flight deck. This way, there�s less chance of bending something else as work progresses. I also built up 95% of the PE trusswork that will replace it.

I haven�t completed the trusswork, nor glued it on, because there will be some placement and fine-tuning with regard to the position of the aft hangar bulkhead and the aft flight deck supports. Also, I chose not to use the baseplate for the trusswork. I believe it would take up too much height on the underside of the flight deck, and complicate placement. I could be wrong, though. We�ll see.

There's also an issue with the aft end of the truss pieces; they round down considerably. There was barely any round down on the real thing, so I'm going to have to cut off the very aft ends and replace them with simple triangular pieces.

The rain gutters were constructed from styrene strips and a simple jig. The jig allowed me to make 1" of length at a time. This was far better than the one-at-a-time method that I used a decade ago. Jeez, I�ve actually learned something in the interim.

I was able to leave a shallow trench of 0.05" to accommodate the PE treading. I did have to remove some of the smaller platforms to get the gutters on. I�ll re-attach the platforms at some point. I also cut down the bulwarks on all the larger platforms as they were not solid sided, but made of railing and canvas.

Absolutely love the lattice work, Dan!

Time for a quick update. After finishing up the rain gutters, I was ready to attach the PE treading. However, in order to cut down on the flexibility of the flight deck prior to installing PE treading strips (so as to avoid the possibility of it bending and having the PE pop off), I had paint and install the elevator wells. Then, I was able to begin glue in some sections of PE treading. I did cut the brass treading strip into sections, to reduce the vulnerability of any given length to pop ups. More on this to come.

For the most part, the treading is fitting nicely into the trenches.

Really great work Dan. Only 4 weeks to Mosquitocon!

Thx, Joe. If you'll bring Yamato.......

Wow, Dan, this is just stunning! Love the elevator wells and how you have created the deck. That's something else. Thank you for sharing your work with us!

Later,

Lee

Fantastic work Dan!
Great elevator wells, and the deck edge rain gutters look incredibly fine and sharp.
Good choice also to replace the deck. All of this hard work will make a huge difference to the 'feel' of the complete model.

I guess you won't use the big PE plate under the deck trusswork, but glue the trusswork directly under the plastic?

Thank you, and correct. Latticework is now glued in place. The overstated truss ends for the round down were clipped off and replace with triangular pieces.

Those ends do look much better now!

But, I'm only not sure about the boat crane rails. Sorry!
I don't know what they should look like on Taiho, but if they were similar to Amagi, they are much too wide ('thick'?) now.
When scaled to 1/700, they were much too narrow to build them by folding brass sheet, so I'm not surprised if the PE set would include oversized items. I looked for U-shaped brass profiles, but couldn't find any thin enough.
So I made them in the following way: I attached a thin square-sectioned strip of Evergreen styrene to a rigid work-surface, and then very carefully and slowly scribed a groove in the centre of the top surface, lengthways. The groove was slowly deepened and widened by passing over it many times with the scribing tool (a simple needle), affording some control to get it centered perfectly. I kept the strip too long at first, and cut it down after scribing. This resulted in one solid plastic strip with a u-section.
But of course, this will be much less visible on a model displayed upright. And of course, Taiho's rails might not have been the same as Amagi's.

In hindsight, you're probably right, Marijn, in that the "U" for each set of guide rails is too wide. Though we have no way of knowing for sure. But, the design and practice would really not change from ship to ship. Truthfully, I didn't consider it, and now that everything is in place, I'm going to let them be. I still feel these units convey the feeling of the mechanism.

Just one more compromise in 1/700.

OTOH, the PE rails are correct in offering only one hook/hoist per rail. These did traverse the entire length of the rail to raise and lower boats from either side of the boat deck by working in tandem. There are many builds that erroneously show one pair on each side. Such builds would also include my older carrier builds.

That's probably a wise choice Dan!

1/700 is indeed full of compromises, and this is only a tiny one. The system is there (most models don't have it at all!), it does reflect the real thing, and it is not even very visible when the model is finished.
The hoist detail is very nice indeed!

Cheers,

Marijn

Dan, this is just breathtaking work.

Very nice.

Superb work... and not only because it is 1/700...

Thx!

Love it.