TugBoat USS Nokomis (YT-142) Woban Class 1:350 & 1:100 - 3D

[Fliger747]

The tug photos above do show the fire hoses coiled rather than laid back and forth. To unlimber one of those I'd guess that you lift it off the rack and step on one end and send it rolling down the deck? The laid type can just be pulled and should come off the rack straight. Interesting coiled cordage on the )1 level aft, next to the obligatory broom/swab rack.

Those close-up photos have a lot of information to construct a very detailed model.

Cheers: Tom

[BB62vet]

Pascal,
Your tug is looking really exceptional!!! And thanks for the commentary on my small davit - hope something there is useful!!! I've found the discussion on fire hoses quite interesting and useful, by the way. So, kind of an offshoot of the project which should help others, as well.

I think the 3D printed fire hose stations are much more realistic than their comparable photo etched compeditors - the lack of depth is what I think will eventually slow down or curtail most PE parts as "detail" is what we're all after.

Keep up the fine work!!

Hank

[Devin]

Thanks Devin!
I need to get into Rhino, but haven't had the courage yet.

I think you'll find Rhino quite easy to pick up. When I started doing model making for my day job back in 2016, I had to learn it on-the-job, as I had almost no CAD experience before then. I found it intuitive, though, which I credit to my experience with Photoshop. You can try a free trial for 90 days I believe.

[Iceman 29]

I've already used up my 3 month free trial period and I haven't really put my nose to the grindstone, I'm a bit overwhelmed with 3D projects and time is running out, you add to that the compulsive procrastination of a retiree. And here we are!

Thanks Devin!
I need to get into Rhino, but haven't had the courage yet.

I think you'll find Rhino quite easy to pick up. When I started doing model making for my day job back in 2016, I had to learn it on-the-job, as I had almost no CAD experience before then. I found it intuitive, though, which I credit to my experience with Photoshop. You can try a free trial for 90 days I believe.

[Iceman 29]

Pascal,
Your tug is looking really exceptional!!! And thanks for the commentary on my small davit - hope something there is useful!!! I've found the discussion on fire hoses quite interesting and useful, by the way. So, kind of an offshoot of the project which should help others, as well.

I think the 3D printed fire hose stations are much more realistic than their comparable photo etched compeditors - the lack of depth is what I think will eventually slow down or curtail most PE parts as "detail" is what we're all after.

Keep up the fine work!!

Hank

Hank, I thought of you as soon as I saw this picture, the details of your excellent drawing were imprinted in my mind. What a thing to say!

[Iceman 29]

The tug photos above do show the fire hoses coiled rather than laid back and forth. To unlimber one of those I'd guess that you lift it off the rack and step on one end and send it rolling down the deck? The laid type can just be pulled and should come off the rack straight. Interesting coiled cordage on the )1 level aft, next to the obligatory broom/swab rack.

Those close-up photos have a lot of information to construct a very detailed model.

Cheers: Tom

Good point, Tom!

[Iceman 29]

A bit of work on the hull for a change.

I took the version of the Hoga at the time for the hull protection tubes, it varied a lot depending on the shipyards and the life of the tug.

New method to make the sheet metal lines, here the welds in positive in this case, but I can also do it in negative for the riveted sheets. I'm quite happy with it because it was complicated before and not too fair by projection... And it takes me 10 times less time for a better result. This has no technical truth of course, I don't have the platting plan of these ships. But it's much better than a smooth hull.

I will be able to do the water outlets and intakes.













YT-146 Hoga, probably new.




I like "The Man In Black" on the bridge.










You can see the starboard water outlets on this one.

[Fliger747]

A little amazing the gentleman is standing on the tug while being launchd with a big splash! The uppermost photo with the gentleman standing on board with a suit on appears to be builders trials? That might account for the coiling of the fire hoses? Quite a different appearance when fitted out as a fire boat.

The tug crews got to practice their seamanship every day!

[DrPR]

Pascal,

If you have access to the original plans/blueprints for a hull you might look for the "mold loft offsets." These are a collection of construction notes including a lot of useful information about how the hulls were built. Because the mold loft offsets are just dozens of pages of text with few drawings they are easily overlooked. Among these might be Tables of Sight Edges.

Hull plating drawings may show riveting and welding instructions and the overlap of plates, and the longitudinal placement of plate edges, but they show the plating "flattened" without the hull curvature, and don't show the elevations of the plates on the hull accurately. The Tables of Sight Edges give this information. These are survey points along the edges of the hull plates giving the XYZ offsets for placing the edges of plates in a strake. Combined with the information in the hull plating drawings it is possible to determine the exact shapes and positions of all the hull plates.

I mention this even though the plans you are working from on the tug might not include the mold loft offsets. But in future builds it could be useful to look for them.

Phil

[NukeMM]

Could that be "Jack The Knife"?

[BB62vet]

Name's Bond....JPG (10.54 KiB) Viewed 963 times

Name's Bond....James Bond, brother of Rufus...OO4.5!!!



Hank

[Iceman 29]

Tks Phil!

Men in black!

Today's advances: on the front capstan, which also serves as a windlass, mooring bollards, hatch from the locker to the anchor chains, deck hatch, inscription of the construction number, draught scales.















Test of drawing of the bridge deck railing and the fishplate.

[Fliger747]

Looking very convincing! We were moving a drydock cassion one day and I was standing on the foredeck between the windlass and the deckhouse. A nylon hawser was secured to the cassion via the port bow chock and the bitts. A current caught it and the hawser began to stretch, a lot! It turns brown and starts smoking, then screeching. About then I hit the deck before it parted with considerable force! Stretch before ultimate yield, maybe close to 80% ?

Cheers: Tom

[DrPR]

We were taught that nylon lines would stretch to about half the original diameter before they would break. We were also taught to get the hell out of there when they started stretching! A large line can cut a man in half when it breaks. You are lucky to be alive!

Phil

[Fliger747]

We were taught the same thing, easier to estimate the change in length than the change in diameter. In rock and ice climbing the stretch is very beneficial to reduce the transient force absorbed by the belayer and anchors as well as the deceleration rate. The idea is more like bungee jumping than taking a leap with a couple of wire cables.

Things happen fast!

[Iceman 29]

The regulations today require the merchant navy to draw on the deck the danger zones at the level of the maneuvering areas, and the use of hawsers.The areas where one must not be when the hawser starts working are delimited by brightly colored lines. The officer in charge of the maneuvering group or the bosun , are in charge of reminding the instructions every time.

More here : https://www.shipownersclub.com/lossprev ... ack-zones/

https://assets.publishing.service.gov.u ... 1-2015.pdf





https://www.slideshare.net/CaptVivekTri ... ime-cadets



https://youtu.be/TMC11azb9Xs

[DrPR]

Back in the '70s the U.S. Navy used "spring laid nylon" mooring lines. These were nylon ropes with steel cables wound into them. If the nylon stretched the steel cables would pull straight and stop the stretching before the nylon snapped.

Phil

[Fliger747]

Didn't see any thing like that in the 60's, would have been harder to splice, but yes I can see advantages for mooring lines. Missouri, currently not going anywhere, is moored with chains. Manila was still around to my recollection, which had the advantage/disadvantage of not being very stretchy. When I started climbing in the mid 60's we still used Manila for climbing ropes, wasn't till the late 60's we acquired the luxury of European Perlon ropes for high angle rock and ice climbing. Guiding on Rainier we still used Manila as the clients were wont to step on the rope with their crampons.

A lot of improvement in the last fifty plus years! Even then there were jokes about iron ships and wooden men.

[Iceman 29]

Many large ships, like one I sailed on, use a mix of wire rope and nylon, following the elasticity requirements by placing 10 to 30 metres of nylon at the head of the rope.

The disadvantage is that it doesn't float and it's heavy for the boatmen who have to put it on the bollard on shore.

The winch drums are specific with this type of mooring line.

This is to prevent the cable from entering the cable storage drum when it is tensioned and blocking it irremediably. A second drum is placed at the end of the storage drum and allows between two and five turns without the cable overlapping. This also allows for easy adjustment of the brake release value in case of overload, as the drum diameter is known and fixed.

Personal pictures to explain:

[Iceman 29]

I started the design of the Sperry steering wheel specific to these tugs last night, nothing done today, just mechanical work.

The wheel is not finished yet. A lot of stuff to modify.