The Ship Model Forum

The quad Vickers mounts continue to entertain.....


This is the WEP version with Sea-master barrels.... (the previous one was GMM). Overall it's the best one so far.The GMM ones seem to be all rather too tall.

The seats at the back are really cute! Shame they are wrong and will have to be cut off!


The next Trumpeter foible has appeared! The "tubs" for the Oerlikon mounts alongside the command tower are far too small..... I long suspected that they should not have a back to them. Again.... probably too late to cut them off.


The Oerlikons are from L'Arsenal and are really nice.

Unfortunately Phil's Repulse didn't have the Oerlikons or the rear Pom-pom so these problems weren't highlighterd before.


Andrew

Excuse me for my bad English ...

Very nice work
But do not have his hands trembling !!!

Thanks Patrice,

I'm about to build up the "night life buoy".


Does anyone know the correct colour scheme?

thanks

Andrew

Hi Andrew,

very good job so far and really helpful for further projects.

I have bought the MASTER Pom-Pom and Vickers 0,5" barrels too. They are extremely fine and well done by Piotr. Nice to see them finished the first time!

Isn't it amazing how long all the fine details take to do....

RN Dan pointed out that Repulse had a type 291 radar areal installed on her spotting top prior to her loss. Photos do not usually show it but then the sensors usually deleted such items. Allowing for builder's licence and in the absence of diagrams or photos here is my initial effort.



Not attached yet but doesn't seem too out of place.

Other fine details from the GMM Hood set include the night life buoy....





The comparative photo:


Andrew

Impressive to say the least... A fine model...

Very very beautiful ...

This is drop-dead awsome! Keep posting progress!

Good work mate!

Lots of hard work and thinking in there!




JIM BAUMANN

Thanks Guys,

Having seen some of your works it's most encouraging!

Work has unfortunately got in the way of much progress at the moment, but here a couple of photos that I put in the Repulse forum.



The hull plating has come out quite subtlety. I'm unsure of whether I'm game to "future" it and apply a wash to make it stand out as I've never done this before.

The rear jack staff is not quite right as the original should not have stays and should have a small platform. Unfortunately the model does not have enough room between the jack staff and the rear anchor hawser to allow for this. The Hood one from the GMM set was so fine and nice, complete with the rear running light that I couldn't resist.

The 4" triple mounts really need blast bags. Once again I'm hesitant to "wreck" them as they look great now. I may experiment with the spare one.....

Andrew

Very nice ...

Awesome job Andrew some of those amidship shots from earlier makes the kit look alot bigger than 1/350 scale .. you've paid great attention to the details


Jose

Hi Guys,

thanks for all the support. I've been offline for because I had to work most of the last 4 weekends!
Thanks for David Griffiths I have managed to add the insulators to the rigging. The Caenis being a monofilament is quite hydrophobic and it was remarkably hard to get any PVA or water based material to adhere. I ended up using drops of black paint applied with a piece of 0.3mm wire.
A little difficult to get even sizes but as David said.... it brings the whole thing alive!


One major problem of Caenis rigging...... children dont see it and attempt to put their hands through it! I must say I'm pretty impressed with both its strength and flexibility! The photo is not too good ... I'll do something better when it's all finished.

Another error has appeared.
The Trumpeter kit provides walkways over the catapult. WEP provide very nice PE replacements. However, looking at these is seemed odd to be that there would be such a high bridge over the catapults. Certainly the catapult rail i saw on Prince of Wales were only about a a foot high. I checked a historical photo I had of POW.
It shows just a gangway with rope hand rails... much as you would expect. The rails seem rather over scale on the model but it's too late to fix them.

Close inspection of the Repulse plans confirm the same on her..... so out with the bridges!

you can see the catapult bridge in Brass over the end of the catapult.

The next question is whether to include the two davits in front of the port deck house. Photos post reconstruction but prewar photos show them in place. But all my wartime photos (which are generally very poor quality) do not. Does any one know the correct answer?

And finally: Just a little extra detail taken from the Hood GMM Pe set.... the leadsman's platforms!


It's the small things that really transform a model!

Andrew

Here's the catapult gangway solution with the WEP PE one behind.

Comments appreciated.


Andrew

Catapult crossing....

Much better and more subtle!

JIM B

Thanks Jim,

They were a bit fiddly. Shame one of the PE sets didn't had anything close.... which seems strange given that they would appear to be quite common.

Andrew

I've just looked through the whole thread and this is an awesome ship model, and of an interesting subject. Great attention to detail, including all the corrections to errors in parts. Great modelling, and an inspiration to enthusiasts and fledgling 350th scale modellers.

Hi all,

Almost finished.... but a new dilemma! I attempted to make some decals with the depth marking on them. That worked OK but the gloss around them looked terrible. I removed them and have "futured" the area before I attempt to reapply.
However.... should I actually "future" the whole model and then "pin wash" it to make the detail stand out or given that it is rigged etc is it too late?

As I've not done this before some of your experience would be much appreciated!





So..... to future or not to future... that is the question?

As an interesting aside.... these photos are taken with my new camera. A Canon 7D set to auto ISO and with a 2.8 17-55mm lens. Aperture priority at f11 and no flash. Amazingly better than my old Nikon D70.

Andrew

You should always gloss coat an area before applying decals... The decal needs to sit on a perfectly flat surface, so a gloss coat is really necessary if you want to avoid what is called 'silvering' which is just air trapped between the decal and the surface you have applied it to.

The perfect way to appy decals is to have a really good smooth finish on the surface it's going to sit, then to apply a gloss coat, let that dry thoroughly, then to apply a decal setting solution (Micro Set and Micro Sol - you can find them on the internet through any decent model shop), which will soften the decal and allow it to conform to the surface fully and then, once set, wipe off any excess water or glue residue and then matt coat over the top.

I tend to add decals after a coat of Future or gloss varnish, then gloss coat over it again to seal them and even everything up. I would then weather the model and then do a matt coat after all the washes and so on... Then use pastels on the matt coat and then matt coat it again to seal the pastel weathering in... but I am a little obsessive... Then again thats from modelling aircraft where there could be loads of decals and getting them to look 'painted on' is an absolute must. In fact, a lot of modellers finish aircraft in gloss paints to avoid the need for a coat of Future or gloss varnish prior to the decal application.

I would just coat the area with future, apply the decal, apply another coat of Future on top of it once it is clean and dry and then add whatever top finish, probably your matt varnish, on top of that.

Your Repulse looks stunning by the way... Really well done

Very nice work.
I am following your steps to as a guide to my Repulse , albeit in a 1936 camo.

As for your new camera a word of advise:Get a descent lens.The money is worth it more from just upgrading to a better camera model.
I have the canon 450D but the lens i was using with the one i replace it with feels like i have a completely different camera now.The 18-55mm is the 'kit' lens and doesnt offer you the ability to take shots either Macro (1/700) with a descent depth of field or even 1/350 although a wide angle. If you can ,pop in any descent photographic shop and ask them to 'test drive' a couple of really nice lenses , then save the pictures and compare them in your PC with the ones taken by the lens you have--usefull to take the same shot with different lenses .That would help you make up your mind.

Anyway , great Repulse and as you said the small details lift the model one level up.