The Ship Model Forum

I placed it in a word doc, copy it from here:

ftp://users:modelwarships@warshipmodels ... rallel.doc

Greetz, Johan


As you can see, a 'few seconds' took me an hour and four minutes...

Gentlemen....Im am forever in your debt

John John

John, will I redrawn it for two ESC's?

BTW, why inboard and outboard? Isn't Port and Starboard a more common configuration? Thats easier for turning your mastodont!

Greetz, Johan

I don't know what make of speed controller's you are using, but make sure that the RED & BLack Leads go to the Batterries and the BLUE & YELLOW go to the motors. If you are using Electronize, they have a built in, in line fuse, should you accidentally wire up wrong. This fuse is of the vehicle type spade fuses and replacements can be bought from Halfords or any car accessory shop.

Johan's wiring diagram is spot on. except that his leads from the ESC to the motors are the same colour as the battery leads. They should be either blue/yellow or some other colours, depending on the make. The Red/black always go to the batterry.

klein loewietje wrote:John, will I redrawn it for two ESC's?

BTW, why inboard and outboard? Isn't Port and Starboard a more common configuration? Thats easier for turning your mastodont!

Greetz, Johan

No need to redraw I will use that set up, just double it for the two sets..

Someone had suggested an inboard out board set up as a backup in case one set went dead. I will have to see as I will appreciate the added turning power of left and right config...If you have an opinon Id appreciate hearing it...

And thanks Vic fo rthe heads up on colours.

I really cannot wait to get back to building...this wiring stuff is wrecking my head...

On a good not last night I did get the props running last night (one at a time) but its all about baby steps
Thanks Gents

John John

Glad you have got sorted John

If you ever need to step up the Voltage. i.e. increasing from 12 volts to 18 volts, just wire up a 12 volt & a 6 volt in Series. For this you need a jump lead to join up the two batteries. The jump lead goes from Positive (RED) from one battery and goes to the Negative (BLACK) on the other battery.
Just wire up the Red & Black from the ESC to the two vacant terminals on each battery.

Two 6 volts wired in series will give you 12 volts, Two 12 volts will give you 24 volts.

Parallel wiring is where you wire two batteries together, Red to Red and Black to Black. This keeps the voltage the same, on both batteries, but just doubles your running time.

Victorious, you're right about the colours, mostly they different.
But when I was drawing the lay-out, I had a conrad NAVY 4OWP laying in front of me, and guess what? Indeed, all cables are red and black...
Confusing indeed, but it has different connections on engine vs battery.
John, think about this, if you made your engine lay-out correctly, with decent electronica, the chances of an engine failure a minimal, so the use of inboard/outboard as a reserve propulsion isn't really necessary.
But the times that you gonna turn your huge Yamato are countless, and every bit of help is welcome to manoeuvre that beast, IMO.
So you're better of with a port-starboard layout than an inner-outer one.
Just my two cents...

Greetz, Johan

Johan is right, when it comes to a four prop configuration. It is always best to wire them up so that the two Port motors are wired together and the two Starboard, together. Don't forget, that you need two left handed props and two right handed.

By going forward on one pair and reverse on the other pair, with full rudder in the direction of the turn, the model will come round in a much shorter distance.

The problem of turning get's a bit more complicated, when you have a three shaft layout, like my Victorious.

It works out that you have two props right handed (Centre & Starboard)and one prop left handed(Port). The centre prop being right handed for normal running.

As far as turning is concerned, you can do one of three things.

(1) Run on the centre prop only and apply full rudder. This takes about thirty five feet to come 180 degrees.

(2) Run on centre prop with full rudder and apply full throttle to the Port motor if turning to starboard, and full throttle to the Starboard motor if turning to port. This takes about twenty eight feet to come 180 degrees.

(3) Turn by outboard motors, running one forward and one reverse. Using the rudder on this type of manouvering, does help to come round tighter especially by giving the centre motor a couple of short bursts of throttle every 10 secs or so. This takes about fifteen feet to come 180 degrees.

Once you get the hang of operating a three prop configuration, it does respond quite well and can be manouvered pretty much as good as a two or four prop set up.

The real bonus, is economy on the batteries. You can use one, two or three props by choice and do any manouver on ether choice of running set up. The Vic will cruise happily at half throttle (about 12 knots scale speed) on the centre prop alone, for a good four hours on one full battery charge.

Excellent advice gents Thanks


Progress is slow as I am not thinking ahead so Id like to get a head start on some things. Can anyone recommend a place to get 1/96 railings, stairs etc?

Thanks John John

John,

John Haynes supplies 1/96th railings and ladders, as does Toms modelworks, and a couple of other places too I think- in the states- the floating Drydock and loyalhanna dockyard carry his stuff- but I'm not sure where to buy from him elsewhere- Maybe direct???

HTH
Brad Newland

Hello Gents

Im back and I have more questions, I have been taking a class in AutoCAD so my progress with YAmato has been dissapointing

I had the hull in the water last weekend and was pleased that it functioned well, other than a few hiccups (I will need a lot...I mean a lot of ballast to get her down to the waterline, in her current condition she wasnt even an inch in the water) Im thrilled.

1st up was the prop couplings. The shaft and locking nuts keep pulling themselves off the motor coupling when I reverse the motors, how can I stop this happening?

Also, I am using two VIPER Speed Controllers and 2 12v 12 Amp batteries. once everything but the reciever batteries are connected and turned on the ship is alive capable of recieving and acting on instructions from the radio. THe power from the motor batts seems to be feeding back to the reciever..whats going on and is it a problem I need to fix?

Thanks again
John John

Hi John nice to see you back on the board. Regarding your problem with the shafts suggest you try loc-tight on each of the nuts but remember this liquid really bonds the nut to the shaft . As for the motors and the RX. What type of ESC are you using, is it a B.E.C. unit?. You could try suppressors on the motor terminal this usually helps. Suppressor kits are available from model suppliers such as Westbourne Model Centre http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk Other than that keep the RX and aerial as far away from the motors as possible. Try these remedial options but should the problem continue it could be related to the speed controller.
Dave Wooley

Thanks for getting back to me

I may have not said it correctly. THe nuts are staying very very attached to the shaft but the nut & shaft is pulling out of the red plastic coupling that is attached to the motor shaft ...

John John

Hi John Same thing , try loc-tight to the nut on the coupling. That should do the trick.
Dave Wooley

Hi, Have a look at page 71 on my IRON DUKE build , do your couplings fit like mine.

Yeah thats how they look,I just didnt think it wa sa good idea to glue the parts together as I am sure that I will be removing theshafts to lube up the shaft tube...

Thanks again gents

John John

This is how I fit my shafts, the outer cassing is fitted in to the hull and fibra glassed in place, the shaft is then lubed and slid in place, the nuts are wound in place at either end, I get them as hand tight as possible so the shaft does not move, then I put on the prop a fraction short of the nut, then I back off the nut from the shaft, locking it on to the prop, this gives you some clearance for the shaft to move.
Now we come to the coupling, turn the nut so again it locks the shaft, put on the coupling, again bring it just short of the nut, back off the nut from the shaftand tighten it onto the coupling, the shaft should now turn and you have your coupling and your prop on very tight, I hope you can under stand all that . ARH

Hello Gents

I am using a fair bit of wood inside the hull and to prevent further damage that an accidental sinking/water logging might cause what should I be using to seal the wood..like varnish or wood sealer?

Rgrds
John John

Well I managed to paint most of the under hull with a primer and ran out of a 300ml can of the stuff before completing it...its got a lot of underside hull... but it went on clean and Im happy with it

Put it into the pond today too, worked very well, Tuned on the spot with port reversed and starboard ahead as well as opposite, and rudder performed surprisingly well when coasting with engines off.

But as maybe evidenced by the pics Im going to need a tremendous amount of ballast to get this down.

THese two signets seemed to be acting as escorts, the didnt strike it but Im not happy with that proximity..

The props were decently submerged but still kicked up a mess when at full power..

Piece by piece people...

Hi John
first well done i am glad she worked well first time out
it is always good to get a ship wet
is it possible to have free flood chambers that way you wont need so much ballast and she wont weigh so much
where was everybody else your sailing alone fine weather sailers it was chilly
cheers
gary rowe