The Ship Model Forum

Come on baby...don't fear the Reeper
Baby feel the thread...don't fear the Reeper
We are ready to tie...don't fear the Reeper

I still owe you the last line ...
(oh what a pun!!!)

... but how did this start again? I just wanted to try out the new blocks ...





... but the packet string was apparently not the right thing. That is why I had my fun on the Reeperbahn

And I realised something else: The blocks were too small for the 32 pounder :-0

That�s why I am now using the smaller 12-pounder for the next test - it was faster than doing bigger blocks

Here a picture from a working stage, comparing old and new ...



... and this was the result:



*jumpingofhappiness*

Not yet perfect, but the direction is right

Lieber Gru�, Daniel

*happilysinging*

Come on baby...don't fear the Reeper
Baby feel the thread...don't fear the Reeper
We are ready to tie...don't fear the Reeper
Baby, I�m your man ...
lalalalalaaaaaaa...

It started with a answer in MSW:

amateur wrote:You will drive yourself insane!
My guess is that your next "problem" will be to get these tiny blocks stropped according the rule book
Next you will realize that blocks have sheaves,
that sheaves are held into position by iron pins,
that these pins have nail like heads,
that.... etc.

We will follow your route to insanity with ever increasing admiration!

Jan

OK-OK-OK, Jan�s challenge was accepted The stropping we had already, so the next is ...



... put a 1 mm poly rod into the machine, drill with 0,4 mm, turning the chuck of the lathe of course by hand ...



... and cutting it off still on the drill to 0,5 mm slices ...



... and this is the result of the production.

So what is missing next for some good blocks? The casing:

So milling a double slot and a single slot into a 2,5 mm x 1 mm batten ...



... doing some carving ...



... colored the disks with marker for not adding to the thickness ...



... inserted the disks and the axles ...



... and cleared it up.



And here the family shot with the benchmark, the wonderful 2 x 2 x 2 mm block from JB.



While stropping I finally re-remembered the great power-splice, which makes things easier and cleaner, prepared a loop ...



... and slid the block into it, secured with glue and ...

*drummrollandsmallfanfare*



... and the thing on place

Lessons learned:

It is really possible to make blocks of 2,5 x 2,5 x 1 mm with turning sheaves! And by pulling on the loose end, the tackle works much easier than the other ones without

The most difficult? Checking if the sheaves are turning after securing the axles with glue. Managed to do this with the point of a needle. Confirmed positivly!



Liebe Gr��e Daniel

This was a side product of having to paint the white sheaves. Thinking how to do them out of black material. Remembered a trick from the WW1 plane builders, that do the locks of the bracing wires by heating up a Q-Tit and pulling it to the needed diameter. The same system as we use to du with sprue it keeps the hole inside in the right proportion to the diameter.

This in mind I thought this could also work in a bigger diameter, slipped some 8 mm sprue into the machine ...



... drilled slowly with 4 mm turning the chuck by hand ...



...heated up and pulled (ok could be done more evenly) ...



... and cut onto the right lengths and got a nice variety of discs, sheaves and raw material for thimbles

Tried to enlarge the ring by using the cone of the drill did not really work.



Used two needles as marlinspikes to do a splice ...



... put the required disc in, tacked it with a drop of CA, adjusted and finally glued it properly in position and opened the hole carefully a little bit more with a drill ...



... and worked on the edges with the 1 mm cherry miller.



The proportions still could be improved, but I found a nice solution for myself for the thimbles

In the size I am building it is a little bit difficult to do them out of metal tube or injection needles.

All the best, Daniel

mad--but good!

JB

First oups: I still owe you the answer for the anchor cable:

How much of the 8/0 fly fishing line was used for this anchor cable ...



... of 2 mm diameter and a length of 1,5 meters?

Different guessings were 80 to 300 meters.

And here is the solution, it is quite easy:

Each of the 3 Strands was done out of 3 threads in different colors, hook in 4 times, duplicated because of running forth and back on three hooks multiplied with the length of the walk of 2,5 meters:

3x3x4x2x3x2,5m=540 meters


But anyway, here we go again ...

(no, I am not starting to sing again ...)

... second oups ...

... it is all Pollux�s mistake ...

... as he gave me the hint of a even thinner thread in our german forum ...



... and what is this??



- on top for comparison a 0,1 mm copper wire.
- then the Uni 8/0, my favourite
- the new Caenis 20/den two stranded laid
- the new Caenis 20/den � la nature
- one of dafi�s hair
- the new Caenis 20/den four stranded laid

To show the size a small montage as closeup:


I scaled in a way that the 0,1 copper wire has a thickness of 10 pixels. My hair has 9 px, the Caenis has 8 px which means about 0,08 mm
My favourite Uni 8/0 looks like a real anchor cable in comparison ...

But why laying such thin cables? The fly line is like dental floss, it is very uneven and does not keep its shape. Bent around a corner it looses it round shape, flattens up and gets twice as thick. Also I have the feeling it is easier to knot and can be easier tried to be given a nice slag.

That is all for now, Daniel

It was going a bit slow lately but I had enough fun mistreating materials and machines. Plenty of trials and "go back to start"-messages. But this was done with the necessary style ...

... means laughing at all problems that occur and if you see the bounty ...



... and this came out as the family shot with the capstan V1 that was installed until recently and the final version nine and three quarter on the right ...hihihihihihi...

The chocks were glued in before the last turns on the machine, so they got a good basic form, the lower ones got the curved in form that enables the cable not to get stuck on them ...



... prepared the pawls ...



... and the stops ...



... carved in the splitlines ... glued the stops ...



... stuck in the pawls, the usual black ink for the inner edges, a litte white brushing for the highlights and some wooden paint to simulate color-clipping of the paintwork on the outer surfaces ...



... placed some rope around ...



... and it looks like it was meant to look like that

Alles Gute, Daniel[/quote]

Magnificent detail. This thread is a pleasure to follow.

I agree this is worth the finding and very very Interesting.

dafi. Will be watching this with Interest, 'mad tho it be', but tenacious in getting it correct.
Cannons fireing to I expect

Great work there me bucko.

stunning dedication....


Jim Baumann

Thank you Sirs, but I did not finish yet ...

Missing was the plate that holds the pawls, that was easy, little bit of Tamia tape and color ...



... then the two retractable bolts that secure the pawls in a horizontal position if not to touch the stops. Also taped a tad lower ...



... a tiny hole drilled and a small wire.



And already to be seen the next thing, the clamps on the trundlehead. More tricky, as paint would not work because of the splitline and all sheet was too thick. So took some 60 gr paper, colored it with Copic-Marker to avoid white edges ...



... backside with CA and front with the right paint ...



... and I was able to cut stripes, less than 0,5 mm wide and less than 0,1 thick
Glued them on using very pointed pincers, as pointed, once it fell out of my hand and stuck vertically in the table



Now that is all I wanted to represent ...



... here the concave form of the upper chocks, understandable ...



... if seen the angle the rope goes around the rips.



Still have to find out the right thickness and kind for the messenger. Unually the literature talks about 24 inch for the anchor cable and half of it for the messenger. But I do not know if it is laid like the anchor cable or if it is a "normal" rope of the given strength as seen today on the Vic. On the bottom you see the 24 inch anchor cable, left the 12 inch laid one and right a "normal" one (which is a tad too thin) ...





...and the same 12 inch to compare with a 17 inch one as sometimes thicker diameters are given for this purpose. Usually it is said to have 4 rounds around the capstan, so we will see who will do the race

Lieber Gru�, Daniel

I am loving this build! Your attention to detail is simply incredible. When you are done there won't be a HMS Victory out there on anywhere near the same level, either in plastic OR wood! Even the curator of the real vessel will be embarrassed and self-conscious about his ship after seeing yours!

One question... do you (or have you) plan to super-detail the Captains/Admiral's quarters too? Don't forget to show us if you do!

I love this hobby

Where else can one really follow his dark spirits without the psychiatrist and 4 strong man will come and take one away?

...

... yes here ...

... and here we meet in Dr dafi�s chambers of horrors, where all humanity is lost, hotter than hell which appears like a children playground and meaner than one season of big brother?

... so, Frankenstein was yesterday, today Dr. dafi is master of the darkest sides, Master of creatures, reorganiser of live�s blocks ...

... and just to warm up ...



... some wings and limbs, some rumps too ...

... fixed to dry and now the intriguing question:



What is the job of this funny young man?

Meanwhile I will go on breaking some bones and twisting some more joints, ER was yesterday, if it gets too loud out here, put the soundbutton ot the tele up, if you are lucky, something relaxing like the Killer Tomatoes will come ...


But now to something completely different, the brighter side of life, I was playing a litte bit italian ice cream saloon ...

... you know the small paper umbrellas ...



... but it facilitates putting the bars properly ...



... and the swifter goes round and round and there we are

And there they push, 10 strong english tars on each bar ...



... getting tight all along ...



... that�s why the guns have been put to the sides ...



... all along the boards ...



... and heave -ho, also the swifter is being pulled ...



... some 120 souls together ...

... heave-ho ...

... heave ...

...
XXXDAn

There are worse ways to go crazy, me thinks... and I'm still in awe!

Hello Dan
As always, your work is extraordinary you know where you go ,and you control the "subject"
"chapeau bas"
Nicolas

Thank you Sirs, and before this disappears onto page 57 ...

Not that you think, that I disappeared into holiday, but this is the hottest time of the year not just temperature wise, but also work wise.

But not to loose the hang of it, I always try to be at least every second day in my corner, even if it is just for 15 minutes ...

This sequential working looks like this for example:

day 1: taking mast tops down and looking at them
day 2: looking for material for the rail and swearing, ordering new Evergreen of suitable size
day 3: waiting for the Evergreen
day 4: Cutting the Evergreen into the right length and gluing the bottom side of the iron fork
day 5: gluing the sides of the fork
day 6: cleaning up and trying to find out which material I used for the stanchions of the for top rail
day 7: discovering on the old pictures it was no brass but steel of 0,5 mills
day 8: drilling holes into top and rail
day 9: fitting the stanchions, applying paint and ...Hurray!

This is the result of more than a weeks work (without paint yet) - railings for main and mizzen tops.



And then, new game, new love:

day 1: preparing two deadeyes
day 2: closing the wrong holes on one side with tooth-pics
day 3: shortening them and closing the other side with tooth-pics
day 4: flattening and sanding twice two sides
day 5: applying some black paint
day 6: looking at ship
day 7: *start sweating*

Really, because of the hot weather, the fam did not want to do anything but relax
So upstairs I went into my littel sauna and preparing some work to come in a years or two time



And here we go, trying the new ropes on the deadeyes



Lanyards applied ...



... on the right still the Mark 1 done the previous year with the old material ...



... and with the chains.

Ok, that is it for a long time now, Daniel

Fantastic work Daniel.
Interesting as ever
You will have to write all this down, then you will not loose yourself, or matirial.
I keep a note as I go on and have named boxs with parts in, this for 1/350 tho.

Good to slowdown a bit sometimes

Thank you Sir

And as the shrouds are up I took the chance to try out the ratlines. Now I know why I kept the Heller ratty machine ...



... the lower 4 lines have the given circumference of 1,5 inch, means 0,12 mm

On top of it I tried 3 sets of four lines, once thinner, once thicker in black and once thicker in tan in case for optical reasons other thicknesses could be more appropriate.



Against the light the differences stand out quite clearly, I will most possibly stay with the "original" size, means 4 strands of 20/0 Caenis.



And now the difficult topic, tarred or tanned ratlines:
Discussions running wild on the net, so I decided to get a more pragmatic approach. Many sources report "hands employed blackening the shrouds". I do strongly believe, that the ratlines were not taken down for that, so the knots and the adacent areas would get their fair share of tar too. The middle in between surly darkened fast too because of the tarred feet of the hands, so the difference if a light or dark line was underneath would soon have disaperead.

Even though I wanted to see how a blackened light line could look like ...



... but the effect is that minor in my scale (see the Tic-Tac) and the paint spoiled the color of my shrouds, so I stay with the black line to facilitate things, leaving the lower four ones as my personnel choice



And see, the little sailor was taking good care in his training and puts the hands to the shrouds for that
a - nobody steps on them
b - he has something stable to hold on in case of the ratline breaking

Best regards, Daniel

Intrigued with the man with hammer

Nice going

Thank you Captain

Yes, what is this little young fellow with this big hammer doing?

So far we found out in the other forums, he is neither building or repairing, he is for sure not giving the beat for the people turning the capstan or some galley slaves as the captain is looking for some waterskiing. Also he is not caulking, disassembling water barrels or forging - all these need different hammers and different ways of handling it.



All the best, DAniel

Welcome to dafi�s world.

Being in the middle of IAA, one of the worlds biggest fairs for the automotive industry, what did dafi discover?



Our clients, what did they see? Naturally some Calamary-Amuse-Gueules.

But what did dafi see?

He only saw these great bamboo-sticks, marvelous tool to apply superglue



I felt rather sick afterwards after eating that many of those to rescue the sticks ...


Sodele and jetzetle,

being back home I was finally able to work on something, that I was dreaming of for the last four weeks ...

... it started all innocently on the lath and then came something that you can find on the market-places of many german wine villages, a nice spindle:



And then came a long box with spikes underneath, drilled from the top...



... having a nose inside ...



... to scew the spindle in with love.



Finished with some iron loops it looks like this





And now the the holy question: What is this little engine about? Data would have said "fully functional", if you know what I mean, hihihihihi ...

So this is the next riddle, after the guy with the big hammer is still waiting for what job he is meant to do

Sincerily, Daniel