USS Indiana BB-58 Scratchbuild in 1/96 - 1944

[seaphoto]

For the fellow that wants to airbrush:

Start with a clean, well prepped surface. This means washing the oils off of plastic, sanding to 400 grit, and then finishing off with a degreasing agent, like alcohol. Fail to do this step, and you risk doom and destruction!

Stir your paint well, and strain it through an old nylon stocking or other clean mesh. You will be squirting a fluid out of a very small opening, and any lumps will cause it to clog

Thin it down according to manufacturers instructions. If none are available, try starting with a mix the consistency of milk. Keep notes at the beginning what works and what doesn't.

Use a decent quality airbrush. A single action is fine for most general model painting - I have a Paasche "H" which works well, and an Aztek that is a bit easier to keep clean. Both produce equally nice results. Keep the brush clean, being sure to clean it thoroughly at the end of each painting session.

If you are serious about painting models, get a nice, quiet compressor. If you live in an apartment, you can look at getting a tank of nitrogen or cabron dioxide to provide pressure - the intial outlay for a tank and guage is less than a quality compressor, though in the long run the compressor is the most economical. You need a clean, dry, consistent source of air pressure. I don't like the cans because the pressure can fluctuate with temperature and how much is left in the can. They get expensive too.

Once you start painting --- stop. Want the secret to airbrushing? Practice off your model. Put paint through the gun; that is how you will get proficent at air brushing. Start by running paint onto scrap paper, and when you are happy with the result, work up to file folders or scrap plastic. If you have old kits, you can practice on those as well. Work on your technique - for example, hold the brush parallel to the model, and start your paint stroke off the model, and end if off the model. Use mutiple thin coats instead of fewer heavier coats. If you think you haven't put enough paint on the first time, that is the point to stop and wait for the coat to dry.

Have fun!

Kurt

[Bill Waldorf]

Well said, Kurt. I would add that the viscosity of the paint (thickness) and how heavy it is applied are some other factors. I find that acrylics will run if shot too thin and too heavy. Enamels and Laquers are a bit more forgiving. I paint alot with acrylics, because they are low odor. I shoot it a little thinner than is in the bottle. I do a light coat first, sort of a tack coat, and then build from there. Keep in mind, I am building in a very large scale, and it takes lots of paint. A 1/700 model would paint-up in the blink of an eye. No matter. Try not to blow the paint on. Succesive lighter coats work better than one heavy one, with any paint.

[ModelMonkey]

Simply terrific.

More!

[Torpedo]

Hi Bill,

I have a Gabbert Triplex (see link: description and photo)

Then I use a relatively loud compressor, which is not important because it MY cellar!

A big problem is light, but I am working on it.

What I want to know is how you paint for example part like these:

The base and the plattform must be painted in dark grey (anthrazit) and the rest light grey. How do you separate the areas? I use Tamya tape, but in the end I have to correct with a brush, or paint the rails with the brush instead of using an airbrush...

(see the rest of my report in german: SM TrpBt. B-110 in construction

[Dave Wooley]

For me the real secret of all paint work is good preparation of the job and good lighting , natural were possible , do that and the rest will come. Bill as a matter of interest how many coats do you spray, say for the hull? I find a single primer coat and a single light finishing coat works for me using WEM paint. Also Bill which type of paint do you prefer , Acrylic or enamels. Kurts explaination was excellent .
Dave Wooley

[Bill Waldorf]

In answer to Torpedo's question............... First, prime the part. I use "Krylon" grey primer which is fast drying. Don't know if you can get that where you are. Any automotive fast dry primer in a spray can would do. Again, don't "blast" it on..... go easy. Just enough to cover the part. I would then spray your main color, the light grey overall. Then come back and brushpaint the decks. Usually takes 2 or 3 coats with the brush. Use a brush that is comfortable yet small enough to get into those little spots. I use many sizes of brushes to accomplish this. Then, to eliminate brush marks, I do a few coats of Testors Dullcoat. This really blends in the whole thing and tends to make those brushmarks less visible. It does not really eliminate them, but rather makes them very hard too see. That's how I do it anyway. Forget the tape on this intricate of a piece. Look at the Indianapolis build and you'll see what I mean.

[Bill Waldorf]

For me the real secret of all paint work is good preparation of the job and good lighting , natural were possible , do that and the rest will come. Bill as a matter of interest how many coats do you spray, say for the hull? I find a single primer coat and a single light finishing coat works for me using WEM paint. Also Bill which type of paint do you prefer , Acrylic or enamels. Kurts explaination was excellent .
Dave Wooley

Dave, - You are correct in that good prep work and good lighting are essential in any paint job. In my large hulls, such as the current Indiana build, I use all automotive based products for priming and sealing. I use a full size paint gun, like body shops use. For primer, I use red acrylic based laquer primer/surfacer. Builds fast and sands easily. Down side is it smells very solventy and paint dust goes everywhere. Best done outside. I'll spray as many as 5 to 10 coats of the primer, sanding and filling imperfections after each coat. After I am satisfied that all looks good, I will do a couple of coats of grey sealer. This product is NOT sandable and is meant to do what the name implies, seal. Dries to a semi shiny appearance and smooth as glass. I'll then finish paint, after I scuff the sealer. This is not sanding. I am lightly just barely scratching the seal coat so finish coats adhere better, and to remove any dirt particles that are inevitable. I like enamels, but I am really getting into the acrylics. Indiana will be all acrylic paints. Less odor and I like the way they dry off. Nice even finish. Enamels are sometimes not so co-operative. Typically, I will do 2 finish coats. Then Dullcoat, which further seals the paint. I spend a lot of time on this procedure, as evidenced by the current build!

[Torpedo]

Thank you Bill for your advise. I will try to do so, although I started the other way round...

Germany signed the Kyoto-Protocol and ist very keen on environmental protection. Therefor our paints are a bit different.

I don't like acryl, so I use a paint based on thinner. But fortunately it's a non-smelling thinner ("aromatenfrei" in german) and with that I can easily work in closed rooms. The only disadvantage ist the relatively long time of drying. A collegue told me, that he uses the same colours, but "nitro-thinner" instead - but only outside. It has the great advantage of drying almost immediatly under the airstream of his spraygun.

The paint is from http://www.relius.de and the non-smelling-thinner too.

[kennylibben]

I thought Germany was VERY keen on environmental protection?

[Torpedo]

Oh yes! They are. In future there will be no more paint with thinner, but only acryl with water.

[Dave Wooley]

For me the real secret of all paint work is good preparation of the job and good lighting , natural were possible , do that and the rest will come. Bill as a matter of interest how many coats do you spray, say for the hull? I find a single primer coat and a single light finishing coat works for me using WEM paint. Also Bill which type of paint do you prefer , Acrylic or enamels. Kurts explaination was excellent .
Dave Wooley

Dave, - You are correct in that good prep work and good lighting are essential in any paint job. In my large hulls, such as the current Indiana build, I use all automotive based products for priming and sealing. I use a full size paint gun, like body shops use. For primer, I use red acrylic based laquer primer/surfacer. Builds fast and sands easily. Down side is it smells very solventy and paint dust goes everywhere. Best done outside. I'll spray as many as 5 to 10 coats of the primer, sanding and filling imperfections after each coat. After I am satisfied that all looks good, I will do a couple of coats of grey sealer. This product is NOT sandable and is meant to do what the name implies, seal. Dries to a semi shiny appearance and smooth as glass. I'll then finish paint, after I scuff the sealer. This is not sanding. I am lightly just barely scratching the seal coat so finish coats adhere better, and to remove any dirt particles that are inevitable. I like enamels, but I am really getting into the acrylics. Indiana will be all acrylic paints. Less odor and I like the way they dry off. Nice even finish. Enamels are sometimes not so co-operative. Typically, I will do 2 finish coats. Then Dullcoat, which further seals the paint. I spend a lot of time on this procedure, as evidenced by the current build!

Thanks Bill for a good explaination. I have mixed feeling regarding the enamel -v-acrylic. I think the finish you get with acrylics can be more even and fine with a faster set than enamels but I'm becoming a fan of WEM enamels as the results are exactly what they say on the tin. I use Tamiya acrylics but I've found mixing acrylics can be rather problematic but once again the results speak volumes.
Dave Wooley

[James]

It is with great sadness that I announce the passing of Bill Waldorf's beloved C.I.C. at 0815 hrs E.S.T. Friday March 2, 2007 after a short battle with cancer. Your condolences are appreciated in his time of grief.

Bill has given me liberty to say a few words, so I shall. She was a great lady who had a great Savior. The Lord Jesus Christ. He simply asks us to trust Him as our Savior. ACTS 16:31 ". . . believe on The Lord Jesus Christ and thou shalt be saved. . ."

Thank you,
Bill's friend and co-worker,
James

[johndon]

I'm sure that the thoughts and prayers of everyone on this board will be with Bill at this time...

John

[ARH]

My condolences to Bill and all the family.

[Torpedo]

My condolence to Bill too. No one can understand, what it means to lose a loved one...I wish him strenght and the ability to forget the pain and never forget the good times together.

[bwross11]

My condolences goes out to Bill and his family; you will be in my prayers.

Bruce

[J. Soca]

I�m sorry to hear this, my condolences to Bill and his family.

[kennylibben]

My deepest sympathies to him and his family.

[Ludwig]

My condolences to Bill and his family. May God have mercy on her soul.

[Willie]

Bill,

I am so sorry to know the sad news.
I can picture very well how you have to feel. You have to mourn your wife. Do it, because it lies in human nature, and it will relieve your laden heart to some extent.
But never forget this is not the last stage. God has created Love, and He will certainly not allow His work to be destroyed, and you will meet your CIC again, no doubt whatsoever. She is now in comission in a different fleet, but she will never forget you and her home port and will be longing for you as well.
If you can, read Ezekiel 37, 1-5. Keep in mind that it is God himself speaking, and that He always holds His Word.
Very best regards from Spain,

Willie.