Calling all Iowa-class (BB-61) fans

[BB62vet]

Greg, et al:

OK, the little holes that are where the draft marks go - yeah, I scratched my head over that one also! There are specific drawings that the USN has made for location of draft marks, hull nos., etc. for each class of ship/type. They give the size, etc. of all these markings and their appropriate locations.

The easiest thing to do would be to get a metal rule and note the location of these holes (from bow of model and bottom of hull, then putty the holes over, sand smooth and when your hull is painted, etc. apply the decal nos. accordingly. Currently, I am using metric for my measuring - in spite of a lifetime of ft/inches, I'm finding that metric is actually easier to use and matches up quite well with modeling parts, etc.

Hope this helps,

Hank

[Mr. Nobody]

Thank you Hank. Very helpful.

[bigjimslade]

Currently, I am using metric for my measuring - in spite of a lifetime of ft/inches, I'm finding that metric is actually easier to use and matches up quite well with modeling parts, etc.

I used metric my entire life---until I started doing CAD work. The English system of fractions as a negative power of 2 do not produce rounding errors.

0.1 is an irrational number in binary so tenths results in all kinds of irritating round offs.

I know 1.9997 = 2 but I want it displayed as 2 without having to do any work to make it so.

[chuck]

Thanks for the reply Hank. As Timmy C stated it is the vertical holes that you filled in with putty. I had come to the conclusion that I would fill them in as well. I have the Pontos set. The included instruction aren�t to helpful with this but if you pull the instruction up online you are able to zoom in and make the small print and details large enough to see. The instruction show dry transfers that they supply, applied to the same location as the holes. I still don�t understand the reason for the holes but they do provide a good way to determine where the boot line goes and the decal. Before I loose their location with putty and paint I will make a template or take notes as to their location so that I can place the dry transfer decals properly.

I am considering a Work in Progress log. I have followed many well documented builds. Mine I�m afraid, would not be one of those. I just know my limitations. I do like the idea of a periodic update and I do have a few ideas I would like to share as well.

Thanks for the help
Greg

The truth seems to be for a long time, trumpeter�s research for their 1/200 and 1/35o ship models was not thorough, nor does it appear that trumpeter put too much effort into understanding what its shoddy research had uncovered. The people who trumpeter use to translate the results of its research into actual CAD files for mold making also did not appear to have much working familiarity with real ships. Although the quality of their molds are often quite good.

The net result is trumpeter often start with just one or a few sets of freely, or cheaply available plans of uncertain quality. If what is illustrated on the plan is not unambiguously clear, trumpeter just make assumptions rather than cross check against other references. Because people who are converting these plans into working CAD files aren�t familiar with what look right and what look wrong for a real ship, these assumptions are often not very good.

[Fliger747]

When one makes the considerable investment in a large injection mold for a hull (Hundred K USD?) it is surprising that more research doesn't go into the original design. Perhaps they have made a judgment that no one will notice? It's not like there is a lot of competition.

Chuck:

One thing worse than the carpet under the modeling area, an open waste can anywhere nearby...

Cheers: Tom

[bigjimslade]

It looks to me like Trumpeter copied the hull form from the Tamiya 1:350 and scaled it up

With all the Iowa class kits out there, it is shocking that no one has come close to getting the hull shape right; especially when the information is available.

[Maarten Sch�nfeld]

Hi BB62vet,

Currently, I am using metric for my measuring - in spite of a lifetime of ft/inches, I'm finding that metric is actually easier to use and matches up quite well with modeling parts, etc.

Yes, that's what France and the European continent found out around 1800! But Britain then being in WAR with the continent wouldn't want to have anything of it, oh no!

So that's why it took more than 200 years for the Anglo-Saxon world to see the light...

And now they decided to push off for Brexit... There we go again!

[chuck]

Ever since I started modeling when I was 12, I�ve switched to doing all mental calculations in metric. This only became reinforced when I took high school science classes.

I used English in daily life, but my mental perception of them is in their metric equivalents. She is 6 feet tall? oh yeah, about a tenth short of two meters.

[BB62vet]

Maarten wrote:

And now they decided to push off for Brexit... There we go again!

Perhaps....however, I don't see this affecting the units of measurement, etc. - Brexit being more on the (emotional) level of political & economic entanglements. Don't worry, Global Weather shifts will take care of all this soon enough!!!

Just sayin.....!

Hank

[Iceman 29]

Thanks!

Maybe someone can help me, I'm looking for the position of the navigation lights on the Missouri, a drawing would be ideal, and the bridge lights too.

For the NJ currently:

Masthead lights: Forward end of foremast and top of discone
Stern and wake lights: Box at maindeck, centerline stern
Anchor lights: Top of jackstaff and ensignstaff
Steering light: Middle of jackstaff
Sidelights: Saluting gun platforms
Blinking light: Ends of foremast yardarms
Various: Stub mast on foremast

[bigjimslade]

It's been pretty dead here recently so here's a photograph of the belt armor of USS New Jersey. This is the class B armor of the lower belt. The grinding marks are clearly visible. The facets and knuckles are not very clean.

[mesquiteag]

I am currently building the 1/350 uss wisconsin by very fire. I have a question concerning the ms22 camouflage pattern on the ship. ms22 calls for deck blue on all horizontial surfaces. Currently they are showing the main guns 16" and all 5" guns without the deck blue on the upper surfaces of the guns. Is this correct, or is this a error by very fire on the painting scheme. I have done some research and can't seem to find any color photos of the ship. Any help would greatly appreciated.

[maccrage]

Indeed. Here you can see the different colors.

[mesquiteag]

thanks, thought that was the case.

[chuck]

It's been pretty dead here recently so here's a photograph of the belt armor of USS New Jersey. This is the class B armor of the lower belt. The grinding marks are clearly visible. The facets and knuckles are not very clean.

P1080203 1PLAT.jpg

Is there any effort to protect the hidden parts of the ship from rust?

[Fliger747]

Photo appears to be a church service? A number of bowed heads.

Cheers: Tom

[maccrage]

Photo appears to be a church service? A number of bowed heads.

Cheers: Tom

Nah, just a bunch of guys standing around in ranks and waiting for the brass to grace them with their presence. Been there, done that.

[Fliger747]

A few interesting things in the photo, helmets hung along the inside of the 20 Orlikon mm bulkhead, a dolly for a smaller (26'?) boat and some hose looking equipment would around the deck ventilator. Also at the very bottom a small table with the mike for whatever address is going to ensue and a possibly admiral looking character near by.

: ) T

[BB63Missouri]

The 'dolly' is a cradle for placing one of the aircraft on. This would then be placed on the catapult for launching the aircraft. If you look at the rear of the catapult there is one attached waiting for an aircraft to be placed on it.
David

[chuck]

Some of the Iowa class, for example the Missouri, did carry an extra 33 foot or 35 foot plane re-arming motor boat on the quarterdeck during WWII. THe boat sat on a wheeled dolly and placed abaft the athwart deck shield for the 20mm oerlikons behind the aft 16� turret. This is shown on numerous photos, but for some reason always omitted from renderings and drawings.