The Ship Model Forum

Thanks Tim much appriciated
Dave Wooley

With the main jib prepared attention can shift to the base , slewing drum,
pivoting rings and purchase arm. The base is drawn to size with a tracing
transferred to a sheet of 2mm thick styrene.

2.5mm wide strip styrene , is bonded to the outer edge of the base., which
will give the internal depth to allow the rod and tube which forms the pivoting
arrangement for the jib to be fitted.

The 1.5mm od brass tube is soldered to the pivot end of the jib .

Most of the tube is removed with just enough to provide the pivot for the jib.

The pivot ends of the jib are slotted either side of the base . The section
of tube removed is now placed into the base thus.

Using 2mm od aluminium tube the frame of the purchase arms are bent to
shape with the lower section compressed , drilled and rounded off to form its
own pivot point.

Some of the parts for the crane are laid out ready for assembly . Note the
small section of aluminium tube . This will seat atop of the purchase arm to
allow the common pin for the sheaves to be supported . The circular forms
are for the slewing dum.

More to follow
Dave Wooley

Well Dave, A brilliant piece of work, well thought out and executed, this will be another stunning model from you.

Hi Ron Thanks for your kind comments. As I've said on a number of occasions your work and your methods of making even the difficult jobs look achievable has certainly inspired me during this build. Thanks for all your positive encouragement along the way .
Dave Wooley

Continuing with the construction of the purchase frame . Holes are drilled
into the point just below the bend to take the inner pin of the cross bracing .
The inner pin is passed through a tube which forms the cross bracing.

The spacing is determined by the width of the base.

All the parts that make up the sheave, sheave support and bushes are prepared .

Parts that make up the Sheave are assembled. For ease of construction the
pin will be supported by 2mm aluminium tube with a brass bush.

The brass bush split into two .

more to follow.
Dave Wooley

How the pin is located into one of the bushes . This will enable the sheave to
be removed if the need arises. [ rigging or painting}

The sheave , pin , bushes and supports joined together to form the pulley
The vertical bracings and pulley are added to the purchase frame.

Re-checked against the base were the position of the tube for the purchase
frame can be determined as per photos and drawings.

Once the location of the frame re �the base a pin vice { small drill} is used
to drill holes into the raised sides that will conform to the size of the linking
pin { in this instance .0.4mm} The tubes is cut to the internal size /width of the base and inserted
into position The PIN is used to link the purchase frame together via the tube
and allow the frame to move freely up or down , essential for rigging.

More to follow and how the jib is married to the base but will it fit?
See if it all fits together next time .
Dave Wooley

Dave, are you a watchmaker by trade?

every time i start to build at part and i think this is to hard to do i look at your work and try to do better.when your building do you stay on one project our jump around. i have a tough time staying one one area untill its done.your work is impressive.

Cadman wrote:Dave, are you a watchmaker by trade?

Hi Tim No not at all . I see how difficult it is to work at 1:350 and 1:700 then I know 1:144 is really the easy scale . I think once you start going up to 1:72 and above the real problems of detail per item start to appear .
Dave Wooley

quote="russclark"]every time i start to build at part and i think this is to hard to do i look at your work and try to do better.when your building do you stay on one project our jump around. i have a tough time staying one one area untill its done.your work is impressive. [/quote]
Hi Russ That's a good question . I find that it's more comfortable to treat all the items as separate models . That way the temptation to move on prematurely to the next part of the build doesn't arise. In a way it�s down to a degree of self-discipline and to remain focused on the task in hand. Although the painting will remain more or less till the last. As an example some parts of the cranes are made so they can be broken down for painting and put back together again .
Dave Wooley

Hi Dave ,

wonderful skills you show us here !

Regards ,

Laurent

Laurent wrote:Hi Dave ,

wonderful skills you show us here !

Regards ,

Laurent

Thanks Laurent I just enjoy putting it all down and if modellers can gain from this all the better.
Dave Wooley

This is not model making this is an anatomy lesson...

Great craftmanship Dave...A fine example to all of us novices...

GTDEATH13 wrote:This is not model making this is an anatomy lesson...

Great craftmanship Dave...A fine example to all of us novices...

If these brief but detailed fittings builds help then I'm a happy .
Dave Wooley

The tube and link pin for the main jib can be set into place following the
same method as fitting the purchase frame .

Both the main jib and purchase frame tubes /barrels can be set into the
inner of the base.

With the tubes firmly aligned the top of the base can be set into position .

With the top secure each pin can be inserted into the barrels
.
With each pin in place there should be a slight extension either side to hold
the main jib and purchase frame. This will also allow the whole assembly to be
broken down for painting .

More to follow, next the jib head sheave
Dave Wooley

OH my god
the things as big as your car, what will you use to transport him once the superstructures on.
There's a guy two doors down from me who rebuilds and renovates old tractors in his garage,
shall i ask him to lend you one.
But as usual Dave i cant fault your superb building, dont suppose i could tempt you with a nice
1/350-1/700 could i, you could get a lot of them in your motor.

Roy

roy allen wrote:OH my god
the things as big as your car, what will you use to transport him once the superstructures on.
There's a guy two doors down from me who rebuilds and renovates old tractors in his garage,
shall i ask him to lend you one.
But as usual Dave i cant fault your superb building, dont suppose i could tempt you with a nice
1/350-1/700 could i, you could get a lot of them in your motor.

Roy

Hi Roy the Kutnetzov on the car roof is not mine it's belongs to Oz warship modeller Mick Elst . My Kiev is much much smaller , thank heavens as I just haven't the space for such a large model.
Dave Wooley

Dave Wooley wrote:

roy allen wrote:OH my god
the things as big as your car, what will you use to transport him once the superstructures on.
There's a guy two doors down from me who rebuilds and renovates old tractors in his garage,
shall i ask him to lend you one.
But as usual Dave i cant fault your superb building, dont suppose i could tempt you with a nice
1/350-1/700 could i, you could get a lot of them in your motor.

Roy

Hi Roy the Kutnetzov on the car roof is not mine it's belongs to Oz warship modeller Mick Elst . My Kiev is much much smaller , thank heavens as I just haven't the space for such a large model.
Dave Wooley

Just a tad over 68inches long. It would be a small indeed against Micks Kutnetzov. As this now old picture shows. But it will still be difficult to transport.

Dave Wooley

Moving to the jib head . The first task was to solder into place a 1mmod
brass tube across the jib head.

The brass tube is cut creating two bushes to take the sheave pin and
using a "pin vice" re-drilled thus.

The assembled sheave and pin ready to be fitted to the jib head .

The pin is inserted through each bush and into the centre of the sheave ,
the jib head pulley is almost ready . All this can be disassembled for painting .

More to follow.
Dave Wooley

sorry my mistake didn't read just looked at pic, BUT
He still comes in at 5ft 8in long and man is that big.
Where are you going to keep him once you've finished.


Roy