The Ship Model Forum

I can see where paint would be a problem. Possibly clean them out with a sharp needle point?

Were these padeyes unique to he Iowa's? I don't recall them as such prominent feature on other ships.

Cheers: Tom

Tom wrote:

Were these padeyes unique to he Iowa's? I don't recall them as such prominent feature on other ships.

They were for the most part. BUT - I've seen similar on the FLETCHER class DDs. If I can locate the photo, I'll post it. I don't think either the SOUTH DAKOTA or NORTH CAROLINA class had them on their hulls.

Hank

I'd have to look at photos of the Fletcher's, foggy memory!

Further work on the area around Turret 3 this week: So many details to finish and install - but all adding to the overall picture!

Hank

Looking really good Hank!

Brett,

Thanks for the nice comment!! Much appreciated.

Hank

Hank:

Progress! Hard to believe but the possibility exists that you will actually finish this, which in a long project like this always seems far off in the future!

Looks good! Tom

Hank,

this is a really clean build with attention to details! Congratulations!

Tom, Voyteque -

Thanks again!! Nice comments. Yes! it has been a long project, but the end is in sight. I'm actually finishing up another sheet of PE design that will add some further details to various items. This will be parts for NEW JERSEY as well as a possible separate 1:200 scale USS NEW JERSEY Main Mast 1955 Era display that I'm thinking of doing as a companion to this model.

Hank

Hank, I gotta say - this is one gorgeous work of art. Not to mention a labor of love! I can't believe the amount of detail you've put into this ship. I've been over this thread several times now and each time I find something that I add to my "Think about doing this" list for my build. You can be very proud of this but I want to caution you , now that you are nearing the end, don't try to hurry to finish it.

I do have one question, Hank, and it pertains to this last photo you attached. I'm trying to figure out what you used for the 20" dual bits along the railing. Looking at TFD's plans (and their CD) they show the bits are set on a slight angle away from each other. He also posts a photo of the bits on the IOWA in which you can easily see this angle.
Now, the plastic parts in the Trumpeter kit do have these bits angled, however, the Pontos detail kit has them straight perpendicular with the base.
Which did you use for your ship? Looking at the photo closely, it looks like they're set on an angle, which means you probably used the plastic ones, however I can't really be sure. I'd like to use the Pontos brass bits, but I'm not sure I can get the proper angle on them.

Thanks Hank

Larry,

First - I appreciate your nice very positive remarks - THANKS!! And, while I haven't said it - YOUR model is coming along excellently also!!

Yes, I did use the Pontos brass bitts and following their instructions on how to use both their parts and the kit parts. I was able to get some angle on the bitts in the last stage of rebuilding them - once the bases were completed and ready to have the bitts installed into them, I put a drop of cryo into the base and then the bitt was inserted and held at an angle until the cryo set up. I had the base mounted in my small work vise in order to hold it in place. This took a couple evenings to accomplish (I usually work a couple hours each night on the model). They are not all uniformly angled, but enough that it really won't make that much difference when viewed from a normal distance.

I will make this comment - the current practice of "dumbing down" the typical model instructions so that the modeler does not have to be able to either read or speak any known language (simply look at the stupid picture) leaves out any form of complete understanding of how to PROPERLY assemble the kit parts. All in the name of making sure we don't offend anyone (or sell as many kits as possible to the morons of the world!!) - take your pick. Just my take on this p.c.b.s.

OK, so my advice would be - you know how they "should" look - take your time, use both kit/Pontos parts as shown, and carefully assemble the bitts so that they end up looking correct. A bit of "fudging" may be necessary - I think you may need to slightly angle the tiny holes in the base with a properly sized bit (can't recall the right size off hand) prior to inserting the pin in the brass bitt.

Hope this helps and answers your question!

Hank

Further progress on the main deck. Here are a couple photos as of last night: The Helo Deck decals were created for me from Maarten Shonfeld - he did a great job on them for me!

I was able to lay down the remainder of the main deck last night and when I return to the shop Sunday night (providing Irma doesn't upset my plans ) I'll check it over and tack down edges as necessary. Overall, I've had great success with the Pontos deck - yes, the edges do tend to peel, but a very careful application of cryo along the offending edges takes care of that.

Looking good Hank.

That looks really good, Hank!

New Jersey International? lol I like it. Looks great!

Scott56, Steve, Brett M - Thanks so much - I do appreciate the kind remarks.

FYI - 'NEW JERSEY INTERNATIONAL' was just as it looks on the model - that moniker was applied during our 68-69 WesPac cruise as sort of an advertisement for all the brass that flew in for conferences aboard ship. They came from all branches and allied countries.

Hank

The Good, The Bad, the Ugly - Here are some "good" photos of the bow area as of last night - work slow, but progressing: Now, after royalling screwing up the helo deck (my own self-inflicted mistakes) I've had to sand down and re-spray the pad and prepare it for applying my last set of decals; I've ordered the Micro-Set & Micro-Sol - results from the similar products available from another source didn't work out - and will finish this when those products arrive: So, I'm expecting shortly another sheet of custom designed PE which will include parts for the Discone/Cage UHF antenna as well as other small items that will be useful in adding super-details to the masts and underside of the hull.

BB62vet wrote:The Good, The Bad, the Ugly - Here are some "good" photos of the bow area as of last night - work slow, but progressing:

Bow & Anchors_1.JPG

Focsle_1.JPG

Breakwater & Anchor Controls_1.JPG

Now, after royalling screwing up the helo deck (my own self-inflicted mistakes) I've had to sand down and re-spray the pad and prepare it for applying my last set of decals; I've ordered the Micro-Set & Micro-Sol - results from the similar products available from another source didn't work out - and will finish this when those products arrive:

Helo Deck Taped & Sanded_1.JPG

Helo Deck Sprayed_1.JPG

Helo Deck Ready for Decals_1.JPG

So, I'm expecting shortly another sheet of custom designed PE which will include parts for the Discone/Cage UHF antenna as well as other small items that will be useful in adding super-details to the masts and underside of the hull.

Wow, I'm jealous of the detail that you were able to add to the hull. That's amazing.

TKO24 - thanks for commenting. The details do add quite a bit to the overall effect.

Hank

Finally, some small items are now in place:
After 3 botched attempts at the helo pad markings, I found another source for making my decals and have the help pad now completed with the right flat finish applied: Last night I was able to get the Safety Nets in place on the stbd. side: The Safety Net frames came from my sheet of PE that I designed and had Starling Models (UK) print for me.
And the last major item was rebuilding from scratch the fwd. boat boom sponson which is a much better version than I had originally made. These are items that I've found no plans available anywhere, so are a 100% guesstimate as to their size & exact location, etc. They were subsequently removed in 1981 during NJ's last rebuild: This now brings me up to clearing off the accumulated "paperwork" cluttering the amidship area of the model and getting the boat davits, winches, and so forth finished and installed. I will more than likely finish the starboard side - including the main deck railings before turning my model around and completing the same items on the port side.