Re: 1/350 Academy Warspite to Barham conversion
Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2018 9:28 am
Last post on the deck, enough has been said....
My old printer died and the replacement (supposedly the following model) prints more vivid color but does not have the photo refinement feature of it's predecessor. So I've reduced the definition by half to something that the new printer can reproduce with certainty (it's now 1 pxl = 1/2 inch, which is still OK). New problem is that resizing images makes them blurry so I'm having to remaster at the new resolution. I've also tried using a vector base graphic program but am struggling with the printed results as I'm new to the software.
Anyway, here's the new foredeck piece held in place with tape for final assessment to decide once and for all if I'm going to go this way (yes I am). I've added a small lip all around the deck edge (equivalent to about 6" high in real life) , which when combined with the deck print gives me a small gutter channel (something I was trying for with my QE build). Railings can now be sited completely independently in that channel. This lip has made it much easier to get a precise shape as any test piece either does or does not fit inside. Also adding the breakwater has given a tighter restraint on locating test pieces for accuracy. I've reached the point where my own ability to hand cut the pieces makes further precision adjustments to the artwork pointless.
The edges of the print out have been covered in CA and painted, and the whole thing sprayed with dullcote.
Any changes from here will simply be tweaks related to color and saturation. I'm happy that I can print something that I'll be satisfied with so I won't have to use commercial/professional printers.
My old printer died and the replacement (supposedly the following model) prints more vivid color but does not have the photo refinement feature of it's predecessor. So I've reduced the definition by half to something that the new printer can reproduce with certainty (it's now 1 pxl = 1/2 inch, which is still OK). New problem is that resizing images makes them blurry so I'm having to remaster at the new resolution. I've also tried using a vector base graphic program but am struggling with the printed results as I'm new to the software.
Anyway, here's the new foredeck piece held in place with tape for final assessment to decide once and for all if I'm going to go this way (yes I am). I've added a small lip all around the deck edge (equivalent to about 6" high in real life) , which when combined with the deck print gives me a small gutter channel (something I was trying for with my QE build). Railings can now be sited completely independently in that channel. This lip has made it much easier to get a precise shape as any test piece either does or does not fit inside. Also adding the breakwater has given a tighter restraint on locating test pieces for accuracy. I've reached the point where my own ability to hand cut the pieces makes further precision adjustments to the artwork pointless.
The edges of the print out have been covered in CA and painted, and the whole thing sprayed with dullcote.
Any changes from here will simply be tweaks related to color and saturation. I'm happy that I can print something that I'll be satisfied with so I won't have to use commercial/professional printers.