The Ship Model Forum

Thx, Steve!

The build has slowed down a bit; life has been extremely busy.

My intent had been to finish the deck before moving on to the hull, but I�ve had to hold off completing the addition of PE treading at the very stern because the flight deck bows up a bit over the boat deck. Chances are likely that the treading will pop off at some point unless I glue the flight deck to the hull and level the aft section over the boat deck. So, that means moving on to working on the hull, particularly at the stern.

Before I did that, I did assemble the wind barrier and support box. I chose the version from Fujimi�s dedicated Taiho PE fret because the windscreen is attached to the box, unlike the AH version which has separated these two parts. It will be easier to bend into position after painting. I�ll then glue it into place permanently after once the fight deck is also in place.

Which reminds me, I did find a complete fret of railings within the Artist Hobby PE sets. Must have completely bypassed it earlier.

When I did move onto the hull and really started to focus on it, I found that it keeps disappointing me. The air intakes at the top of the hull do not match plans, so I tweaked the kit versions a little. I wasn't willing to completely re-work them.

The bow apertures for the forecastle deck are somewhat crude; there was plenty of flash, and the tops and bottoms were neither flat nor parallel. And the bollards and fairleads are mis-shapen, if not oversized. So, I spent time replacing those details, and leveling the aperture tops and bottoms. I still have to sand down and thin the replacement hawsehole openings. (Fujimi�s are oval, not round.) I also filled in a few details on the anchor deck, though it's going to be closed up and almost impossible to see anything. No need to go crazy there. The details that Fujimi did provide are basic and somewhat underscale, particularly the hawseholes for the anchor chain. No chafing plates, either.

I also realized yesterday that the bottom row of portholes probably shouldn�t exist. I checked all my references, and not a one shows them. Even the Fukui sketches of the early 1950�s don�t show them (or a degaussing cable, for that matter.) Frankly, I wouldn't expect to see any with 1943 new construction. Plus, post-Battle of the Phillipine Sea photos of both Zuikaku and Junyo's hull shows the bottom row(s) of portholes plated over. So, I'm going to have to fill these in.

The more I review it, the more I think Fujimi based a lot of this kit on a 1/500 resin version that�s available in Japan. It's nice kit, but some details, like these portholes, are dubious in nature. Anyway, I�m getting bogged down in annoying, boring details.

Dan K wrote:Thx, Steve!

The build has slowed down a bit; life has been extremely busy.

My intent had been to finish the deck before moving on to the hull, but I�ve had to hold off completing the addition of PE treading at the very stern because the flight deck bows up a bit over the boat deck. Chances are likely that the treading will pop off at some point unless I glue the flight deck to the hull and level the aft section over the boat deck. So, that means moving on to working on the hull, particularly at the stern.

Before I did that, I did assemble the wind barrier and support box. I chose the version from Fujimi�s dedicated Taiho PE fret because the windscreen is attached to the box, unlike the AH version which has separated these two parts. It will be easier to bend into position after painting. I�ll then glue it into place permanently after once the fight deck is also in place.

Which reminds me, I did find a complete fret of railings within the Artist Hobby PE sets. Must have completely bypassed it earlier.

I'm curious about your process of painting the deck. I'm working on Shoho and scratching my head about this. I'd like to assemble it all then paint it all, but once all the safety nets are on the side I despair of handling it without breaking those, much less putting any masking. I've thought about painting the wooden part of the deck, masking it, sticking all the PE on, painting everything, *then* pulling the masking off the wood part. Would you share how you go about it?

I really like the looks of that windscreen. That's a nice part!

Thx.

I've thought about painting the wooden part of the deck, masking it, sticking all the PE on, painting everything, *then* pulling the masking off the wood part. Would you share how you go about it?

I'll probably do something similar, though the safety nets will go on after everything else is done. The supports for the netting are grey, but the netting is brown or tan. I foresee painting them separately and gluing these on after the fact. Otherwise, they'll likely to break off if I tape them while attached. That's how I see it as of now. Subject to change.

Dan K wrote:I�m getting bogged down in annoying, boring details.

Welcome to ship modelling!

Kidding aside, I'm glad to see you're still making good progress. Even if it may not look too spectacular, you know it will all contribute to a spectacular final result.

Outstanding work as always Dan! Looking forward to more. Any thoughts on this AM set for Taiho�s deck? Matt

Dan, the deck looks fantastic and the wind barrier support box is a little marvel!

Dan K wrote wrote:I�m getting bogged down in annoying, boring details.

I am sure you�re not the only one feeling this way

Thx, guys.

Any thoughts on this AM set for Taiho�s deck?

While I don't have this particular set, it appears to be just like the 1/700 & 1/350 versions I have for the Shokakus and Hiryu. I think these are really nice sets. Certainly, this set is a cost effective alternative to the Artist Hobby Flight Deck subset for Taiho. I also like that the treading pieces separate to either side of the bridge. Makes it easier for the bridge to glue directly to the hull.

My only concern on these sets, and that of Artist Hobby, is that they are finished a little more glossy/shiny than the typical matte finish of the other PE brands. I have wondered if that type finish presents a little less "tooth" of the brass surface for adhesion to the kit plastic. So, I've lightly sanded the underside of the parts while on the fret, and soaked everything in vinegar, both to improve the grip of the surface.

A brief update �

The lower row of portholes was drilled out, filled with styrene rod and putty and sanded smooth. Some had to be refilled multiple times due to overvigorous sanding. I double-checked them with a brush stroke of paint over each one, then re-sanded the surfaces. Done!

Of course, all the other portholes still need to be drilled out a bit. More fun!

Moving around to the stern yielded more disappointments. The molded fairleads are huge and misshapen, there�s an unnecessary set of badly distorted portholes and the starboard half of the hull is higher than the portside, even though it�s a one-piece hull. Go figure.

All were corrected, as was a notch for a styrene leadsman�s platform. The Fujimi PE set also has the leadsman's platform, and I�m inclined to install it later on, having reviewed pics of Ryujo,Soryu and Hiryu, among others.

The boat deck wasn�t much better than the stern. The arrangement of some deck equipment made little sense. The kit rear anchor capstan was off in its location, had no chain return to the locker, and no cover for the chain locker hawsehole. The hawsehole for the rear anchor itself was barely noticeable and had to be enlarged, with a coaming. Several part placement holes were filled as either unnecessary or oversized. That larger, round thing next to the capstan is unidentifiable as a piece of equipment, but I didn�t feel like removing it. As it is, all of these changes will be hidden under the rear AA platform. More to come.

Hello Dan, very nice and thoughtful work!
I never stop wondering why manufacturers don�t make their part better, I don�t think it would need that much extra work.
Keep smiling

Going to be sharp.

I sure hope so.

One of the positive things about the Fujimi kit over the Tamiya kit is that it correctly provides for the starboard side boat storage tunnel that extends forward into the hull from the boat deck. But, Fujimi just molds a couple of boats chocks along the way to sit some boats in the chute. (Fujimi specifies both 13m daihatsus be placed here, which is not necessarily correct.) The reality is that you can�t just wheel a 15.5 ton daihatsu, or a 12m, 9 ton motor launch back to the stern.

The Profile Morskie books on Taiho describe an overhead set of rails to move the boats back, but this isn�t correct either, as these would interfere with the two large, transverse, overhead boat cranes placed above the boat deck. The Miyukikai planset correctly point to a set of deck rails, similar to those used by an aircraft or torpedo trolley, and meant to move the boats forward and back. This set-up was very similar to what the Yamato class used to move large launches stored to either side of that class�s aircraft hangar and elevator.

So, I installed a set of rails.

I then reworked the stern end of the hangar to better reflect plans. The kit version is fanciful with regard to details. There was a crew quarters compartment, narrow but full hangar width, set above the back of the aircraft engine maintenance shop. That shop was located to the rear of the aft elevator, on the top hangar deck level. Details and access to the crew compartment from the boat deck were modified accordingly.

To make the railings atop the raised walkway work, I swapped out the kit designated railing and took PE parts 35, 98, & 99 from the aft end of the rear AA platform, which is also going to be reworked. I can then use the longer railing #30 on the AA platform after cutting it for size.

Great work as always Dan .
I have also the Taiho as kit, but have to finish some other kits first .

At leats I have an idea what is waiting for me when I build the kit .

Greetings Christian

Great work Dan, and very well thought out!
Following with great interest...

Thx, guys.

Hmm, just noticed those nubs on the PE stairwell rails under the platform. Rats. Digital photography sees all. Well, they'll be hidden in shadows.

Two other things worth mentioning:

Fujimi neglected to provide for any hawser reels at the stern. While it�s not clear what their exact locations may have been, you can be sure that some were placed there. I�ll make some educated guesses for placement based on IJN CV precedents.

OTOH, the Fujimi PE railings are a very pleasant surprise. My personal standard for 1/700 IJN railings continues to be the Gold Medal Models IJN Ultrafine set. At 0.03� thickness, it�s as close to scale as seems possible for a PE railing in 1/700.

The Fujimi set is 0.055� thick, but they have used this width to provide strength while minimizing the height of the individual bars. So, from a horizontal perspective, the overall appearance is very close to that of the GMM Ultrafine rails. Conversely, the Artist Hobby railings are 0.04� wide, but formed in the more typical way, appearing thicker on the height of each rail. A comparison is shown below.

Nice progress Dan. Looks sharp.

Nicely done Dan! i'm eager to see the island work



Jose

Thank you, both. Jose, I already know that island is going to take a little work.

Since the last post, I�ve been working on correcting the stern AA platform. Both the Miyukikai plans and the postwar USN Navtech drawings indicate a somewhat different layout than what Fujimi has molded. Basically, it had straight lines and distinct angles, with the platform slightly asymmetrical towards the port side. This was done to accommodate the angling of the port most column supporting the aft portion of the flight deck, which was also asymmetrically located to port to offset the weight of the island.

The 25mm gun tubs were also corrected to account for their shape. Other changes include the platform splinter shielding cut away and replaced by railings, the addition of 25mm ammo bins, a third support column added at the rear of the platform, and correcting the truss supports under the platform. I think the most important detail underneath is the elimination of the column support under the 25mm MG director located between the gun tubs. Given that the rear anchor chain ran directly underneath the director, such a support was not feasible. So, a heavy-duty girder placed between the two supports under the gun tubs seems much more likely.

Some other details have yet to be placed, such as the maneuvering light array. Also worth noting is that the starboard support column for the flight deck is vertical, and not canted outward like the port unit (and most other carriers). This configuration does contradict the Miyukikai plans, but, in examining the layout of the flight deck, its distribution of load and its own underdeck truss supports, I believe the configuration chosen by Fujimi is actually correct.

If you have the plans with the correct shape of the stern AA platform, you have to wonder why Fujimi didn't have them (or use them).

Excellent work, as always.