GALLEY ALLEY! ~~~~ The Oared Vessel in 1/700th Scale

[callen]

Let us consider the Venetian Galley...

Was there ever a more beautiful warship in all of naval history?

I have wanted to build one of these ships for a very long time indeed. In the wake of my Phoenician, Egyptian and Greek efforts, I finally gave myself permission to attempt one of these vessels, surely the most exquisitely crafted Renaissance man-o-war.

To that end, I began two ships simultaneously. I wanted to concentrate on the era of Lepanto, (1571) and I wanted to build two ships together. I often do this, thinking that I will knock out a pair in the same time it takes me to build a single ship, that one can simply repeat the steps and maximize efficiency. The two types I began were what is called a 'Capitana' [flagship]

And a Galeazza [Galleass]

Which was a special 'super-galley' a heavy-hitting type that made a tremendous impact at Lepanto.

[callen]

Here is a period source draft of a galley hull, which gives you an idea of the basic shape I will need to create. Pondering this kind of ship takes some thinking because the hull shape is partly obscured by the outrigger rowing deck, which can be seen here:

We have in these vessels a shape that appears quite boxy and ungraceful from the plan view, a rectangle with a point at one end, and a trapezoid at the other end. But it is only when looking directly down on a galley that it takes this aspect, because, you see, the rowing deck is not flat, but follows the sheer-line of the hull. And this brings an uncommon grace to the overall composition.

The key, in modeling these vessels then, is to make every effort to preserve the grace of the hull sheer, and to create a rowing deck which, though rectangular in plan, follows the subtle curves of the hull from all other angles. Ok! let's get started!

Waterline plates for both the Capitana and the Galeazza. I'm going to be very thorough in my documentation here, as always, to demonstrate to everyone that scratch-building is doable. No it's not easy, but I find it no more challenging than kit+PE work.

What you're looking at here, are two shaped pairs of sheet styrene taped together with double-sided tape. I chose to make these ships full-hull, and not waterline, because I don't want to have to purchase, paint and place the 180 or so figures needed to man these ships in a water display/diorama. Later I found out there was a possible solution to this problem, but I still feel good about my choice.

Building up the hull. Honestly, I don't know whether this is the Capitana or the Galleazza. At this point, except for size, they were nearly identical.

Adding material to one side...I hope these methods look as crude to you as they really are. And I hope this demystifies the idea of scratch-building in 700th Scale.

Now to build up the lower hull, which is new territory for me. The only full-hull subjects I've built prior to this are earlier on this thread. So, yes, not a terrifying prospect, but I find each new subject requires an adjustment in techniques.

Hull to the waterline has been shaped, but lower hull is still rough.

[j.mahieux]

Hi Callen,
Will you make us a reproduction of the Battle of Lepanto?
A lot of work in perspective, a real work gal�rien!
Jean

[callen]

Since the inner structure of both types are completely enclosed, a solid lower hull is the best option. In the case of the Capitana, the weather deck, which is taken up largely by the rowing benches and outrigger structure is totally exposed and visible...so the construction of the outrigger/rowing deck is where the work really starts...

Scribed sheet to represent the rowing deck outer structure, including the Apostis, or outrigger structure.

Flipping this part over, we can begin the underside of the Apostis, which consists of regular curved wooden members supporting the walkway run on either side. I had a strategy to accomplish this that I think is basically sound, but, in my first effort resulted in quite a few problems, as you will see.

The supporting elements, or 'struts' if you will must be mirror-matched on both sides. They also must be regular. The scratch-building solution to this sort of problem is to use a consistent thickness of plastic as a spacer. And since both sides will be identical, the best method is to create both sides in one go, and then trim away the excess...

Penny for scale. Sorry about the dark photos, but I think you can see the basic idea. It isn't necessary for the spacing elements to be either clean or symmetrical. That rough material you can see in the center of the component will be cut away once the struts are completed.

[callen]

Now, nothing here is very difficult, particularly, though it is tedious, and it took me, I believe, three nights to get through this step.

But here is the tricky part...the whole point of this method is to get those struts evenly spaced. And that means you've got to be dead-sure that each and every one is fully glued down and cured, adhering solidly to the Apostis outer-walkway. If the struts come up when you trim away the center, then you have to re-glue them individually, which is to say, undo the whole point of the method.

Success! Feeling pretty confident at this point...

Now to create that lovely sheer. The apostis/rowing deck, though modeled flat should be very slightly curved once it is glued to the hull. Therefore we should create the sheer curve with the upper surface of the hull-block.

Note that the Apostis struts run out from the hull for a bit before passing under the outer walkway. That means the structure is transparent, when viewed from above (although this shot is from below.) This was an important detail I was keen to achieve. So far so good.

These strips will establish the limit of the inner edge of the struts. The rowing benches will then be placed on top of these.

[callen]

While the Apostis element is curing, I decided to start work on the bow. Here you can see a roughed out wedge. For much of this model I chose to build rough and then sand (sculpt) to shape. This was one of the most enjoyable aspects of the build.

At first I was leery that I wouldn't be able to create symmetry with eye and hand coordination alone. Later I realized that, really everything in modeling comes down to what our eyes are telling us. When we build kits and place a part, and it's not straight...we adjust it. Sanding to symmetry is really no different.

Stern work.

Overall shot.

Shaping the bow. How do you get it symmetrical? Two answers:
1. You don't. Nothing is ever totally symmetrical, not even the kits you build. It's not a question of perfect symmetry, it's a question of satisfying the eye as much as possible, and then living with the remaining imperfections.
2. Which is to say...practice!


One tip I can give you: unless you are ambidextrous, you will cut towards the aft on one side, and then towards the bow on the other side. This naturally is going to result in asymmetry.

That's what you can see happening here. Your hands will tell you: 'I'm doing it the same on both sides, boss!' But it isn't true.

If you _know_ this going in, you'll learn to compensate in the way that you work each side, and achieve better results.

In this case, the scribed sheet styrene and the resulting planking runs helped in achieving _relative_ (not perfect) symmetry.

[callen]

Progress on the bow shape.

I thought: Wow! Is it really this easy? Why haven't I done this before!

And then the problems showed up...

Not good. Not good at all. You see, I used a very thin sheet of styrene to establish the deck sheer. What's worse, I left voids beneath it. This means that the strut elements, when trimmed away...destroyed the deck.

This is an easily avoided problem, and one I should have realized from the beginning: Don't permit voids in your hull-block. Especially if you're doing heavy gluing above it!

So...how to repair this deck? Obviously it needs to be covered over...

A bit rough, but this new weather deck will be completely obscured by the 'Banchi' (oar steps. Note that in these galleys the rowmen _stand_. They don't sit.) and the 'Corsia' long central gangway running the length of the oar deck.

[callen]

Time for the stern work.

Once you start carving it kind of becomes a habit.

Comparing the Capitana now with the Galeazza...The hull shape of both types is supposed to be identical in all respects except size. But what you can see here is that the size difference between the two is very slight. Too slight. I realized at this point the Galeazza would need to be increased in size.

Hull Surgery!
I don't want to say scratch-building is _easier_ than kits...but it is perhaps less stressful. You're in total control of all the materials. You screw something up? Just do it again! Something's not big enough? Make it bigger!

[callen]

Returning to the Capitana...we must begin to think now about the Corsia and Banchi. Like the Apostis struts, the Banchi will need to be evenly and regularly spaced. I decided to make this happen using similar methods to those already applied.

Using a spacer piece, but this time not gluing it in place I decided to create a series of openings in the sides of the Corsia. These openings would receive the Banchi ends where they join the Corsia, and also ensure regular spacing. Because the Banchi extend from the Corsia at an angle, it wasn't possible to simply glue them in place at this step, as might be done if they ran perpendicular to the axis of the ship.

The spacer pieces, once placed and covered by the Corsia decking piece, can then be trimmed away. Note that the planks on the Corsia run transverse.

Here you can see the openings which will receive the ends of the Banchi.

[callen]

Working in the Banchi...

A critical aspect of scratch building techniques is developing methods that cut down on trimming and measuring. It takes some thought, and it's something that kit building does not at all prepare you for, but if you can find ways to build rough and trim afterwards, you'll have better progress when you are creating your own model subjects.

Once cured, the outboard ends of the Banchi must be trimmed and fitted flush with the Apostis walkway decking. This was tricky, but didn't prove as difficult as I had feared.

Work on the forecastle gun-deck, which is known as the "Arumbada"

[callen]

Note that the upper deck is removable here, and is only fitted for illustration. Later I will need to mount scratch-built cannons in the forecastle.

Switching to the stern. How does one create that lovely command deck so characteristic of these ships?

This part was hard, and didn't go off without problems, but I got it done in the end.

[callen]

Hi Callen,
Will you make us a reproduction of the Battle of Lepanto?

Ha! I think that might be the official definition of Modeler Hell...the Battle of Lepanto in 700th Scale!

A lot of work in perspective, a real work gal�rien!
Jean

Thank you, Jean!

[callen]

Progress shot...those wonderful Venetian curves...

At this point, buoyed up by the success of the command deck, I launched into the barrel awning structure, quite confident that this would not be any great difficulty...

But, well... it didn't go well. Having to rely on symmetry in bent rod styrene is always asking for trouble...

Skeptical?



Time for a scale shot...

[callen]

Think that deal's gonna work?

'Cause I can tell ya, it aint workin...

Alright...let's try this thing again...

Scratch-built barrel-awning for a Venetian Galley? This is the hardest part of the model, let me tell you. You can't just pull out some mesh PE and stick it on there...The horizontal elements ought to follow the lines of the command deck, which is to say, diminish parametrically towards the stern. Not easy, amigo. This was my third try, and I was starting to get worried.

NOPE!
NOT WORKING!

[callen]

The idea of the third try was to get the first and last hoops to match, glue the horizontal elements in place, and then use those horizontal elements to bring the remaining hoops into conformity. Well, gluing all of those parts to the front hoop caused it to warp when cured, which meant a stronger (thicker) bit of strip was needed to absorb all of that cement without warping. I felt like I was finally closing in on the solution...

Is it working????

It's starting to work!

[j.mahieux]

Fantastic, a real gem!

Jean

[wefalck]

Quite amazing what can be done with styrene and skill ... and a steady hand

For all those equally spaced elements I would have probably taken out my milling machine and milled slots for them.

[Pieter]

Excellent work. Will you be manning the oars?

[callen]

Fantastic, a real gem!

Jean

Merci, mon ami. You will be happy to know, Jean, that the sources you sent me some time ago continue to inspire my builds. This one in particular relied quite heavy on some of the references you gave me.

Quite amazing what can be done with styrene and skill ... and a steady hand

For all those equally spaced elements I would have probably taken out my milling machine and milled slots for them.

Fantastic! That's something I don't have either the skills or the equipment for. Everyone has their methods, I suppose.

Excellent work. Will you be manning the oars?

Pieter, we would be looking at more than a hundred and fifty figures to man the oars. I thought that such a situation would be very tedious to build, as I have never attempted to pose that many figures so densely packed together. I also thought the figures might obscure the very interesting open structure of the vessel. For this reason, I decided to build it full hull and display in the traditional manner on finials.

This is my plan for the foreseeable future for Venetian Galleys. Some galley types that I would consider a water base for include:

� Roman/Punic/Hellenistic Galleys
� Venetian/Spanish Galeazza
� Greek Trires
� Any galley type where the crew is obscured/covered.

At some point I will attempt a Venetian Galia Sottil (which is the official name for the kind of ship I'm blogging here) in the open sea, but I want to build some full-hull finial-mounted models first.

I have plans to model all of these. My good friend Rusty White has graciously entered the fray as a co-conspirator, so stay tuned!

[callen]

Wales!

Departing from my previous style with the Renaissance Carracks, I have decided to not depict the individual planking on my Venetian Capitana. The reasons are several. First of all, most of the hull will be obscured beneath the Apostis outrigger and the oar banks. Secondly, the Venetian warships were renowned for their fit and finish. And thirdly...it just adds a lot of work!

And since I'm not going to plank the hull, we can dive right in with the wales [no pun intended.]

Back to the barrel awning on the stern. The idea is that the inner horizontal elements will help to conform the hoops...one way to find out.

So far so good...

Here you can see my efforts to create a transparent Apostis structure. It is still evident at this point, despite the fact that the supporting struts and the benches are of a contrasting pattern and rhythm. Only time will tell whether the work was worth it.