The Ship Model Forum

Yep, painting multi-coloured parts is always a bit of a pain ...

BTW, saw your nice comments and reference to my current project in a French forum last night by chance - Thank you very much !

It's well deserved! Your work is remarkable and full of teachings!

Here's the progress of the assembly, nothing's glued, I'm really waiting until the last moment to do it step by step.

I've painted the funnel, so that's all there is to it. The poop deck is going to be reshaped with hot water so that it fits perfectly for gluing, a common practice with resin, especially on this type of deck part which tends to warp after printing, nothing serious.

The blue of the hulls is shiny for the moment, but will be covered with a matte varnish later, as will the whole set, to homogenize after aging for one of the two.

There's still a lot of painting and assembly work to be done.

My method of masking the bulwark.

Looking very impressive.

Do you have a close up of the waterways after painting, i.e. once you have removed the masking? I have been strguggling with exactly that part, as one can paint if only after assembly and it's quite difficult to get straight lines, plus my etched stanchions were rather flimsy.

wefalck wrote:Looking very impressive.

Do you have a close up of the waterways after painting, i.e. once you have removed the masking? I have been strguggling with exactly that part, as one can paint if only after assembly and it's quite difficult to get straight lines, plus my etched stanchions were rather flimsy.

Tks!

The progress I've made over the last few days means I'm concentrating on one of the 2 models at the moment, to avoid repeating possible mistakes on the second one in terms of assembly, gluing and painting.

It's becoming a real ship, but there's still a lot of work to do. :')

Here the hull is gray, the photo is not really dated.





The plates that make up a bilge panel are marked in rows, so there must have been a problem with different plate lengths.

As to painting the bulwarks: I didn't realise that there was a gap between the lower edge and the deck - the masking was there to keep the outside paint out then. The gap makes the colour seperation between bulwark and deck easy. I had to to paint an about 1 mm high kicking-strip on the inside of the bulwark and going around the stanchions ...

That ship has turned out really well.

will she be weathered at all...?


JB

Thanks Jim.

This one ( Mine ) will be weathered.

The second one not.
It's a request from my friend Roland for his copy, no weathering, no open hatches, cargo masts at sea station, no figures, no welding lines.
More of an institutional-style model, a model of a shipping company office of sorts.

On both, the glossy blue of the hull will be matt.

Pascal,

You are doing an excellent job on this little workhorse vessel. It is nice to see models of these "common" ships instead of just another Bismark or Iowa.

Phil

Thank you all for your vital encouragement and motivation.

Progress in painting and assembly.

The tarpaulins (green canvas) are made with OCB cigarette paper... To consume without moderation in this case...

Tarpaulin: (Marine) Flexible sailcloth strips, sewn together and then tarred, used to cover hatch covers and prevent water from entering a ship's hold.

"OCB N�4 is a pure linen, chlorine-free short rolling paper. "



"OCB, short for Odet-Cascadec-Bollor�, is a French rolling paper brand founded in 1918 in Ergu�-Gab�ric near Quimper in Brittany, France.

It was owned by the Bollor� Group until July 2000, when the French company Republic Technologies International, a subsidiary of Republic Tobacco, took over the brand."

I've installed a good part of the standing rigging, leaving the cargo masts to be fitted and rigged after the weathering that's underway, an operation that's always tricky. Always start with the side that won't be exposed.

























Much of the standing rigging is in place.

New advances, a lot of little details that I can't mention here because the list is so long, the kind of thing that you don't notice but that makes the difference in the visual and precision effect.

I'm in the rigging. Particularly the hoists for the cargo masts, which are very difficult to do with stretched plastic. It's very fragile during assembly.

I still have one set of hoists to make. I made a printer assembly to make it easier to make the hoists.
I've also continued with the ageing of the ship, which I haven't finished; there's still the starboard antifouling to finish.

The weathering looks very good !

What did you use for the rolled-back tarpaulin over the hatch? Looks rather natural and sufficiently thin.

It's very thin and very fragile, I glue and work with white glue, quite classic.

The photos amplify the "weathering" a little.

Iceman 29 wrote:The tarpaulins (green canvas) are made with OCB cigarette paper... To consume without moderation in this case...

Tarpaulin: (Marine) Flexible sailcloth strips, sewn together and then tarred, used to cover hatch covers and prevent water from entering a ship's hold.

"OCB N�4 is a pure linen, chlorine-free short rolling paper. "

Great work!

Fine and good work!

Here is a thought for even sag in the hoist tackle assemblies in sprue;


1) Rig your hoists as best possible on your jig

2) put the entire Jig and stretched sprue on a central heating radiator
( or in the oven at 30 deg C )

3)when warm -remove the Jig, immediately tighten the sprue to straight with incense smoke
allow the warm/ hot jig to cool -- ( the Jig will contract longitudinally )
and the hoist and tackles will have EVEN sag on all lines !


viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37536


cheers Jim Baumann

Thanks for the link Jim, very useful, I'll try to apply your advice for the second copy.

I've finished the rigging, it's a big challenge in stretch...

The sailors have started to pose.

It feels like the end of construction for this first specimen.