The Ship Model Forum

In March 2012 I did the fore top to try out the first material for the nettings.

And also a small provocation. I placed the lantern not in the main top but in the fore top as indicated by Lavery as Nelson was only Vice Admiral. But by now I have enough contemporary sources that indicate the "classical" version.

By now it was time to do the two missing tops. Also I was using the new netting that I deliver together with my etch parts.

So I did the wire frame, glued the netting onto it, brushed the paint onto the material and sticked it into place.



To get the length of the holding line I used a tooth pick and a cheap thread

And then, the surprise, the new netting appears even thinner than the old material, an effect that I liked a lot.





And yes, that is why the old netting had to go. And in the box with the discarded parts we go



XXXDAn

PS: And yes, the opportunity was taken to bring back the lantern onto the main top

oh no the netting you sent me has been sent to the parts bend !! Looks like our favorite HMS Victory web site is no more ! Sigh !! A shout out to Pete Colemen for keeping it up and running for as long as he did... Thanks Pete.. Also Pete is you still look in here from time to time Ive lost your e-mail.. Please contact me at Starbucksam@frontier.com I was hoping to get some pictures of Maurice Wilcox's excellent ships boats he did for his HMS Victory.. cheers !

HI Dan

always in search of the most perfect d�tails your progress are always a feast for the eyes
cheers
Nicolas

Thank you bill and Nicolas!

As a small sign of life, I did some parts that look easier than the way I wanted them to do

The gunwale from fo�castle to waist, the on-molded partners needed to be replaced. In P. they have to rolls for some running rigging incorporated, so that was a "wannahavethat2" ...


...ok, once in the mind, never to leave again.



Made a green master, that far that good, but ...



... to get 2 fitting holes into that thin structure proved quite a task. Some pre drilling in 0,25 mm and finalizing with 0,3 mm and the holes were through ...



... and still fitting a base underneath the circular section that houses the spare spars ...



... and then the exciting moment ...



... of the mock rigging, and it worked, the rope went through.



XXXDAn

And following the disaster end of August I proudly declare that Captn Hardy ...



... has the ceiling of his cabin finally repainted

And the forecastle is done too



... and some more beauty shots from the kitchen





The pikes are only on one side of the mast as the main stay is passing on starboard.


XXXDAn

After the model makers meeting in march I originally wanted to tidy up the anchor handling presentation, in the meantime stumbled over the top-tackle scutles, so it is time to link the both. For this I need the pendants from the tops, so time to look for that ...

So first step to worm, smart and serve the rope ...



... bound the loop, threw it over the mast top ...



... and let ot a big scream as the binding was on the half round chock and not underneath ...



...AAAAARRRRGGGGHHHHH...

So a longer loop was done and a picture taken for that nobody can say they did not see it properly.



And really this time it fits underneath the chock .





Making the cringles is a mostely easy task and already documented some time ago ...



... oup there the 1 mm tube from the old tests, now the slight thicker one of 1,3 mm

But then turning the cringles in, thaaaaat is something different ...



Left the first trial, right the newer one, I think some more 2716 pieces and the result will be fine



And the pendants in place



XXXDAn

Remodeling is always messy.
Good job!

Very impressive!

Thank you 3M and Joe, very appreciated!

and miracles do happen: Univers gave me a nice X-Mess-presi - some tinkering time

A short look back:
Some time I discovered on the William Turner drawings from late 1805 some details on the poop deck rails. After some fruitful discussions it proved to be most likely some fair lead rollers that were used for hauling some rope from the poop deck rigging, due to the limited space there and the restricted access. So plenty of men could pull the strings from the quarter deck, with more ease.
More here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/top ... k-railing/

Also the helm indicator was rediscovered on the drawing and also to be seen on the contemporary model from 1765. Reason enough not to omit this one any longer
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/top ... indicator/

So then off it went

First the still missing most upfront deck beam still had to be placed. The white sheet served for positioning.



Then some trials to get the proportions of the clamps and rollers correct..



Here in comparison to the Heller Part, that is based upon todays state of the Vic in P.



Then slowly getting in touch with the base part of the rail.



Clamp and rollers are composed out of several small parts to give a defined form.



And then on location. The gaps on the sides will disappear on the final fixing, as the material easily bends in the shape of the curve of the deck.



Splashed some paint ...



... and placed in place.







XXXDAn

hello Dan

what to say...........I am speechless in front the profusion of details the most realistic one than the others
You push the limits very far
cheers
Nicolas

Thank you Nicolas.

I did not come as far as I wanted this year but some minor things were done. Finally I found the time to document the set of my etch and to not make it too boring I made a test shot in two versions: Once the classical "Portsmouth Condition", build already more than a fantastillion times (or at least started) and afterwards a version, that comes nearer to my personal best educated guess of the "real Trafalgar Condition".

But anyway, this is only a current score, as more input is always on the way in ...

First the "classical" Victory, Portsmouth Condition.



Channels

First the more sophisticated version with thinned needle heads and broadened channel whales ...



... and the more simple to build version with normal needle heads.











The fore channels of the kit are to narrow and should be enlarged for the deadeyes not to collide with the hammock cranes.







The figure head









The mariners walk needs some new holes













The forecastle with the one sided storage of the pikes











The waist with the spare spars







The quarter deck













The poop deck















Hammock cranes









Gun ports











Side entry port





Stern, lanterns, side davits









Mast tops







Draught marks

Anchors, anchor shoes and buoys

Trafalgar Condition?





























But it will stay thrilling as already since I build this, evidence freshly says that the small gangways to the poop were leveled to the poop deck and therefor the hammock cranes went more forward

But all in all, I do believe, one can make something nice out off this old kit

XXXDan

Amazing work as always!

This will be fantastic reference for when I eventually get to build Victory...

Cheers,

Marijn

the perseverance with the absolute minutia of just this one ship is simply awe inspiring!

(with just a tiny degree of madness !)



JIM B

Hi:

I built this years ago, and am not going to do it again. With all the aftermarket goodies available, I am looking forward to doing it up. What is your source for the PE?

Thanks

Thank you Jim. But with the complexity of that build, I have the feeling of having made hundreds of small models over the past years that coincidentally result in the history of this one ship.
Small note by the side, when I started the reaction was: Oh no, not another build of that boring ship ...
Sorry, it went a bit out of control

Dear Marijn, THAT I want to see, feel free to contact me to get the latest updates and gossips

Mgunns, please have a look here: http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en.html

XXXDAn

Ok, time to do some stupid things ...

... I! WANT! ... I! WANT! ... I! WANT! ...

... sails

For some time already - actually years - I was cogitating about how to do the sails. For scale reason I do not like the cloth ones as for their too coarse structure, paper ones almost always end up with small crisps and waves from painting. Silk is too transparent. Paper easily gets crisps and tears and rips if formed in a wet state. Cloth is too rigid for my scale to give a realistic fall of the folds, paper is ...

Also I wanted to find something more realistic for the usual way of imitating the seams with pencil - or even worse black stitches. In reality the stitches themselves are mostely invisible as they have a similar color to the sail. What one can see is a difference in transparency as the area of the stitches consists of 4-time folded cloth, being almost invisible with light from the front and to be seen as a "shadow" of blocked light if it comes from behind.

Could go on for ages lamenting. So I decided to laminate ...
(Got the pun?)

That is why I wanted to try a unusual test, combining both materials. Cloth with paper glued to both sides, thus giving the better paper structure but using the strength of the cloth within. By using wall paper glue, I aimed in being able to soften up the sail where needed by wetness or steam to be able to form the sail afterwards.

One still is young and has dreams ...

So on we went, trying out a series of small squares of 5 cm of different cloths and papers and surprisingly this crackpot idea really seemed to be not completely out of this world.

So and even further we went, investing in a wedge frame, putting the Silk of pong� 5 - the thinnest I could get - onto it ...



... and evenly spreading the glue. Then ading the thinnest paper I had on both sides. And one sees immediately the problem, the paper gives: the waves and crisps.



Got better after drying ...



... the transparency was perfect ...



... but the sidelight revealed the small crisps still being there.



Next I tried to glue the seams onto this base which did not work at all, as the paper got soft with the glue ...



... ripping to shreds and proving its unwillingness not to perform straight lines .


So I went on to search for different kind of papers and found something from the restoration department

Immediately had to try this out - and I never have been that near to what was being encapsulated in my strange brainsalads ...



... the back side was without any crisps ...



... and the transparency was perfect too ...



... and if I still manage to fit the doubling on the front and back sides to to match ...

... and I further on renounce to put two strips of "canvas" atop each other - as to be seen in strip n#6 -...

... yep, then ...

...

...hihihihihihihihi...

That is why I immediately did the next test piece. And got the appearence even closer to my aim. The doubling is made a layer thicker as it consists in reality of 4 layers of cloth, not just two.
Also I added some copper thread in the seam, even though it will possibly be a bit difficult in a larger sail.



Then painted with some diluted wall paper glue dyed very carefully with a mixture of 43 parts light grey and one part yellow ochre

Here some shots of the nice play with light, changing appearance from frontal, side and back light









Slowly we go

... slowly ...

XXXDAn

Ok, time to do some stupid things ...

... I! WANT! ... I! WANT! ... I! WANT! ...

... sails

For some time already - actually years - I was cogitating about how to do the sails. For scale reason I do not like the cloth ones as for their too coarse structure, paper ones almost always end up with small crisps and waves from painting. Silk is too transparent. Paper easily gets crisps and tears and rips if formed in a wet state. Cloth is too rigid for ma scale to give a realistic fall of the folds, paper is ...

Also I wanted to find something more realistic for the usual way of imitating the seams with pencil - or even worse black stitches. In reality the stitches themselves are mostely invisible as they have a similar color to the sail, what one can see is a difference i transparencies as the area of the stitches consists of 4-time folded cloth, being almost invisible with light from the front and to be seen as a "shadow" of blocked light if it comes from behind.

Could go on for ages lamenting. So I decided to laminate ...
(Got the pun?)

That is why I wanted to try a unusual test, combining the to materials. Silk of pong� 5 (Thinnest I could get) with paper glued to both sides, thus giving the better paper structure but using the strength of the cloth within. By using wall paper glue, I aimed in being able to soften up the sail where needed by wetness or steam to be able to form the sail afterwards.

One still is young and has dreams ...

So on we went, trying out a series of small squares of 5 cm of different cloths and paper and surprisingly this crackpot idea really seemed to be not completely out of this world.

So and even further we went, investing in a wedge frame, putting the Silk p5 onto it ...



... and evenly spreading the glue. Then ading the thinnest paper I had on both sides. And one sees immediately the problem, the paper gives: the waves and crisps.



Got better after drying ...



... the transparency was perfect ...



... but the sidelight revealed the small crisps still being there.



Next I tried to glue the seams onto this base which did not work at all, as the paper got soft with the glue ...



... ripping to shreds and proving its unwillingness not to perform straight lines .


So I went on to search for different kind of papers and found something from the restoration department

Immediately had to try this out - and I never had been that near to what was being encapsulated in my strange brainsalads ...



... the back side was without any crisps ...



... and the transparency was perfect too ...



... and if I still manage to fit the doubling on the front and back sides to to match ...

... and I further on renounce to put two strips of "canvas" atop each other ...

... yep, then ...

...

...hihihihihihihihi...

That is why I immediately did the next test piece. And got the appearence even closer to my aim. The doubling is made a layer thicker as it consists in reality of 4 layers of cloth, not just two.
Also I added some copper thread in the seam, even though it will possibly be a bit difficult in a larger sail.



Then painted with some diluted wall paper glue dyed very carefully with a mixture of 3 parts light grey and one part yellow ochre



Here some shots of the nice play with light, changing appearance from frontal, side and back light









Slowly we go

... slowly ...

XXXDAn