Pontosmodel 1/200 USS Missouri Detail Up Sets

[kb466]

I just received my Pontos set today and I have to say that I am quite impressed! It looks to be excellent. I got the blue deck and was a little worried how it would look. Well, it's great.
The only problem is that I am one of the persons missing the 40 mm Bofors barrels. I have emailed both Kim and Brandon about it, so I suspect I will receive the barrels soon.
All in all, this really is an impressive set. You won't be disappointed.
Bill M.

[JYo]

Thanks for the info Bill. I too have placed the order for the blue deck version. I really hope that Pontos starts double checking that all parts are in the kit. Would be a shame to have to wait for a longer period for missing parts. Glad to see that you are impressed with the color of the blue decks since they are in a bag on the photos posted. Can't wait to receive mine!

Jeff

[kb466]

Jeff,
Well if you get one of the sets without the 40mm barrels, there is an upside. First, I have faith that Kim and Brandon will supply the missing 40mm barrels. Secondly, instead of the
missing 40mm barrels, you get a second set of 20mm barrels which Kim says above we can just keep and don't have to return. For me, I have a feeling that I will be losing a few of the very fine 20mm barrels to the carpet monster, so having a few extra will be a good thing.
Bill M.

[piotro]

Hi Guys,
I have a lame question for you (sorry about that :) ) I am a bit confused by option to have different kinds of deck. Why is there teak tone and blue tone? I thought there was always wood on the deck. Could please someone explain me why the option and what are the differences for building the model?

thank you

Peter P.

[Timmy C]

Because Missouri (and most other US vessels) during the war had their wood decks painted with 20B Deck Blue to conceal them from aerial observations. The Pontos option of a bare teak deck is in case you want to portray her at some point after the war when they removed the paint.

[piotro]

thanks for clarification, Timmy.
Now I took closer look on internet what the ship looked like during different periods and the colorful camouflage from 1944 looks realy interesting. I will be a lot of extra work, but I guess it would worth it :)
Guys, any of you have this kit already home, is in the trumpeter manual also this camouflage scheme from 1944? I guess it is, but just to make sure, otherwise I would probably order teak tone of deck.

thanks

Peter P.

[Timmy C]

The kit comes only with the camouflage paint diagram for 1945: http://www.trumpeter-china.com/uploads/ ... 55P235.jpg

[rbauer]

going through the kit, the Pontos PE and other materials, starting to put the hull together.

I know there are some problems people have with missing Pontos parts, a few glitches with the Trumpeter hull, and we're waiting for more of a narrative instead of pure photos (that's what "Instructions" mean, right), but I gotta stop and just reflect on how far we've come in scale modeling. Pontos really needs to stand up and take a bow--the stuff is great. Whether you realize it or not, you guys are setting the pace in the aftermarket for these scale models.

Here are my requests:

1) Is there any "delta" with the Trumpeter PE that comes with the 1:200, and the Pontos PE? (i.e., "use this Trumpeter, don't use this Trumpeter?").

2) In general assembly, I am guessing that we use the Trumpeter page order, and back-fill the Pontos PE in its order as we go along. It would be nice to have a sequenced manual, but you can't always get what you want.

3) Any advice on when to paint and install the subassemblies would be appreciated. I especially am unsure about the teak deck and whether to paint everything and keep all as a subassembly until putting it all together on top of the deck at the end. It's one thing to assembly the PE for a product illustration/photo, it's another thing to use it to create the full realism of the model. Not necessarily an issue, just seeking some advice here.

4) I am an intermediately skilled modeler, more wallet than talent, and this one is really going to challenge my building (esp. PE skills). If there were some U-Tube video's, some narrative about how to integrate the Pontos documents with the Trumpeter, it would be great. Kim, you should go on U-Tube and create a Pontos Channel. If you have to hire someone to show us how to do this, it would be worth the effort. I bet there are some of the folks on this list who might think about posting some of their own narrative, too.

5) I know that this is version 1.0, so we need to be patient with things, but I am really stoked to get started, and would value any links, FAQ, etc., on both the Trumpeter model and the Pontos PE....keep your posts coming, Kim, we appreciate it!

so I would characterize my issues as "lover's quarrels"...no doubt about my fundamental respect for the product, just thoughts for improvement!

life is good--it's 4 degrees F outside in our mountain home in Colorado, and it's a perfect day to sand that huge keel!

Rick Bauer

[Timmy C]

I don't know of any aftermarket manufacturer that truly integrates their product's construction sequence with that of the kit - not least because most modelers find their own way of assembly that frequently differ from the kit's own instructions!

That said, if you take a look in the FAQ and Tips & Tricks sections of this forum, you'll find various general tips on assembly and application of various items.

[Pontosmodel]

Thank you for your comments Rick,
Hope you have a happy work time with these sets.

First, with our set you need not use any PE part of Kit.
But for some more additional as ladders or Steps Etc, you may use extra PE parts of Trumpeter kit.
Sequence manual as Kit 's is practically complex to guide mainly because All of our modelers have their own work ways or flow and there are some additional materials (as quite quantity PE, Wood deck or new turned brass parts).
But we try to separate manuals as section as Armament, Deck, Bridge, Boats, Airplane, other accesory etc.
I think this is the ship building(and more one of the largest battleship in naval history) not just assembling a small model ship.
So before starting your work, we recommend you should have your own plan deeply for this ship building.
And I think this setting plan is another enjoyment in this hobby life.

Second, Painting with installing Wood deck is very important process because kit makers have not considered this work process. It is also different case for each modeler. But generally users paint the objects on the deck first, next apply wood deck and retouch the remains. you feel that this simple process can reduce much your working time than masking all the objects for painting deck without wood deck.

Third, as for the setting You-tube channel is now impossible for us because there are too many projects promised to other ship fans.And all our staffs including me would not be shown publicly as on U-tube...
And adding new staff and works for U-tube, makes the high cost of our sets be much higher.

Last we have informed to you about our prodcts on these forums so please keep your visit from time to time on this thread for more information.
And as always we would get any your advice or feedback for better products.

You are very happy modeler to work in -16 Cel Degree but I think precise wet-sanding work is not so good at this degree.

Thank you
Keumho Kim

[Guest]

Hello,

Is it possible to have a close photo of the wood blue deck 20B?

[Pontosmodel]

Yep next week we would show some photos of 20B Deck Blue...
This will make 23003F1 with 20B Deck Blue be sold much more.

Thank you
Kim

[JYo]

I just received my order for the "blue deck" version. The photo etch and turned brass are stunning! Going to be LOTS of work!!! I must say that the planks don't seem to look like they have ends to them on my blue version. They look like long continuous planks until they but up against another part. Laser cutting was done along with the original wood grain which is nice. Just don't see the separate planking as much but this is so tiny that it doesn't matter much. All the vertical and circular lines are visible. Just no end points to each plank. The blue looks true to color to me. It was pretty dark even in the sunlight on the real ship. It's a very nice set and I'm looking forward to placing it on the deck. I will be building mine as the day of surrender Sept 2nd, 1945. Pre ordered those figures and waiting. Also ordered .3mm drill bits which are recommended.

Jeff York

[Saltlakezee]

Had to put on my Optivisor to see if the plank ends where on the blue deck version - they are there but very subtle (excellent). Pontos did a first rate job on this set. Very pleased and I am sure that the advanced set will be a stunner as well. Way to go Pontos!

[Kelly Quirk]

Kim, can you post a good picture of the breakwater? The instructions are hard to follow on this part.

Thank you.

[Guest]

Hi Pontos,
Any chance you can stop using all these bogus names to keep the threads running, which keeps putting your few products up at the top of the lists all the time....

[Timmy C]

Hi Pontos,
Any chance you can stop using all these bogus names to keep the threads running, which keeps putting your few products up at the top of the lists all the time....

That's dangerously close to libel. Unless you have any kind of evidence to support this (hint: writing styles and IP addresses are completely different, and the last several posts in the Bismarck thread have hardly been flattering, so good luck), I suggest you keep to believing aliens built the pyramids and other conspiracies of the like.

[sgtryan13]

Hi Pontos,
Any chance you can stop using all these bogus names to keep the threads running, which keeps putting your few products up at the top of the lists all the time....

Ha, and all coming from someone who is not even secure enough in his own delusions to use his own log-in info before throwing some shenanigans like that out there?!

I have a very strong feeling I know who the "guest" poster is, but since I am not 100%, I'll keep that opinion to myself.



And Timmy, you had me on your side, but then it appears that you are suggesting the aliens did NOT build the pyramids???

[kb466]

Hi Pontos,
Any chance you can stop using all these bogus names to keep the threads running, which keeps putting your few products up at the top of the lists all the time....

Hey "Guest",
Any chance you can use your real name so we can see who is behind this post? I see no evidence of Kim exploiting this thread by using fake names. Instead, I see a lot of understandable interest in his products.
Bill M. (real name, by the way)

[MadAxeMan]

Was it the guy asking for pics of the blue deck, that got no response?....
Or the guys that claimed their package was missing parts?....
And then all those that complained about the incorrect/incomplete Bismarck manual, that redid it themselves?

Man, that Kim even had me fooled
Some stellar detective work going on here, folks


I also believe Aliens killed off all the dinosaurs using them as slave laborers to build the pyramids
So, technically, the dinosaurs built the pyromids