The Ship Model Forum

Vladi wrote:Interesting idea, I always stretched it befor glueing and used heat only in case of a later problem.

For me, this way makes it easier to add them.

Vladi wrote:

maxim wrote:The style of a certain brand is anyway not acceptable, because its mimics Nazi propaganda.

What do you mean?

Uschi's brand logo is already a nazi propaganda poster.

maxim wrote:Uschi's brand logo is already a nazi propaganda poster.

I see what you mean

Vladi wrote: Here the advantage of sagging is not (and should not) be too apparent. What I like is the possibility to cut the wire to an exact length and than attaching it only then. What I dislike is the amount of time it had taken me so far - ho this will get better as I gain more experience. I also attached the line for the national flag (that�s the one oddly looking, it will make more sense when the flag will be in place). Next come the hallyards.

actually stiff wire ( or standing wire - however we call it) gives certain opportunities and benefits:
1. You don�t apply any additional tensions for mast nor to its elements like yards. At any step during whole process.
2. You make the whole rigging construct more durable due to fact of joining masts and their elements by stiff wires at their initial position (point above). You just deliver structural reinforcement.
3. You have full, repeatable (IMPORTANT - REPETEABLE ) control on sagging. Where you want it - you do it. Where you don't - you don't.
4. And sagging is unchangeable from beginning to end of rigging process - which is quite challenging when using soft wire (just for example two parallel sagging horizontal wire to be looking exactly the same way)
5. Learning curve - of course exists - but in MHO is far shorter comparing to soft wire.


May I try to explain how I am "fighting" with riging: very important is to have very sharp and proper (side cutting) pliers. Like this: After a few attempts rigging of entire Kinugasa class cruiser will take max 3-4 hurs with a lot of fun

blacman wrote: very important is to have very sharp and proper (side cutting) pliers. Like this:

Which cutter model is this? Because Im using also tungsten wire like you, I find it is simply superior to anything, including that Nazi styled company thread they sell.

So here am I with some experience already after rigging two ships with the wire. The clear advantages are as blacman noted above. Most of all I liked the ease of installation with no need to drill holes to fasten monofilament to funnels etc. Also the sagging effect looks great when done properly after some trial and error attempts. This can be seen on the overhead view below - while the port side flag leads look good to me, the starboard side will need some more adjustment.

The slight disadvantage is that the 0.06mm wire is a bit overscale for antennae in 1/700. Corresponding to 42mm diameter in reality it is pretty ok for standing wires like those vertical stays securing funnels or masts in their place, but overscale for antenna wires that would be perhaps 1-2 centimeters in diameter. I considered combining the wire for stays with 20 den UNI Caenis for the thinner stuff, but then decided that I�d like to try the sagging effect for the thinner wires, too.

Some more details are to be done but matt varnish and seabase are the most important steps on the list.

Excellent work!

Its all looking pretty good...

but I have one small issue--
and I hope you understand what I mean( of course you may have solved the issue already and In have not seen it!

in this image of your below-- the crane boom( PE ) rigging is shown hanging slackly

which is fine IF there is a support under the boom--then the rigging can hang.

BUT--if there is no support underneath-the weight of the crane boom would pull the rigging into a straight line
I hope that makes sense
Were it my model--at this stage--I would add a small support or tripod underneath the boom ...

best wishes
Jim Baumann

Thanks, guys!

Jim, thanks for your point, you are indeed right... I will think about how to improve that. Not sure if there should be any support on the top of the catapult. But straightening the PE part would be cumbersome, too.

BTW I hope the flag looks more reallistic here than that on my Yunagi, as you pointed out last time - I took your advice . It can�t be really seen well on these shots, so at least the white sleeves.

Uschi's brand logo is already a nazi propaganda poster.

@ Maxim...when you built BB Bismark etc. what do you do ?

I have to intention to built Bismarck. But there is anyway a difference between a model of a historic ship and a company today, which had chosen long after 1945 to start to use the Nazi-propaganda-style for its name and logo. The later is obviously very problematic.

Ladies and gentlemen, let me introduce to you Kinugasa, completed just in time for the 78th anniversary of the Battle of Savo Island!



Kinugasa was the fourth heavy cruiser in Admiral Mikawa�s column dashing into the Savo Sound after midnight of August 9th, 1942. She joined the devastating cannonade at HMAS Canberra and fired four torpedoes on her, none of them hit. She was the probable target of torpedoes fired by USS Bagley that might have hit Canberra�s starboard side and sealed her fate. Kinugasa briefly engaged USS Chicago and obtained a hit on enemy�s foremast, causing light damage, and then she continued towards the Northern group. She was hit by one of the few shells fired by USS Vincennes that damaged her steering engines so she had to steer by main engines for a while, but paid back dearly with multiple hits on Vincennes and Astoria.



Kinugasa is shown firing her first salvos on the American Northern Group while her aft guns and starboard fire their last shells on the Southern Force. She�s got no floatplanes on board as the IJN doctrine called for flying them away before entering combat. She flies white sleeves on her foremast for recognition in the night battle as mentioned by several Japanese sources.
I�ve been very generously offered to test the excellent Shelf Oddity Kinugasa/Aoba detail set designed by Greg Moczko (blacman). The set was really extraordinary and contained almost everything a modeller could dream of. It replaced most of the original Hasegawa kit as documented above in this thread. I provided some hopefully useful feedback to Greg, most of what he kindly accepted for his current version. The only area where my model differs more significantly is the aft bridge, for which I designed some custom PE parts based on the valuable input of Mutsuo Sasaki.



After-market parts:

• Shelf Oddity IJN Kinugasa/Aoba Premium Detail Set and 0.06mm Rigging Metal Wire
• 3dmodelparts Naval Figures (from various sets)
• Miscellaneous minor Flyhawk, Rainbow etc. PE parts

The model was airbrushed using Lifecolor Kure Grey and Linoleum paints, Tamiya Hull Red and weathered with artistic oil paints.


References:

• Modelwarships.com: Calling all IJN Aoba (??) class fans
• Pre-war and wartime photography from various sources

Special thanks to:

• Greg Moczko for kindly allowing me to test his Kinugasa Detail Set
• Mutsuo Sasaki and Dan Kaplan for their insights on the Aoba class

Please see my Flickr album for more hi-res photos. Your comments and constructive criticism is indeed welcome. Thanks for watching!

Congratulations! Very impressive!

Excellent! I think is the best one you've done yet. Nice job, getting both her and Chicago done for the anniversary.

Exquisite work! Came out nice and soft colour wise, in scale. Good sea also!

Agreed, exquisite work. Great that you've finished both she and Chicago for this anniversary.

The outstanding photography clearly shows how beautiful everything turned out. Congrats on a really terrific presentation.

Big thanks to all of you, I am happy you like how she turned out!

Now I�d need Pit-Road to come up with their new mold Yubari as exhibited some time ago, the last IJN class at Savo not represented in my collection yet

Really great Collection.

Greetings Christian

Any insight into work behind the tastefully made plaques for the stands?