The Ship Model Forum

Interesting as to the stone color. I wonder what the local source of quarry stone was. Certainly sandstones can have considerable color variation and run to buffs, yellows and oranges etc depending a lot on the cementing iron content and the source sand material. My Master of Sci was in geology, with research work in clay mineralogy and geo-chemistry. Our model ships tend to be fresh from the builders with perfect upkeep. The artist in this case, Pascal, is allowed leeway to present the scene however he wants, new and bright or covered by a grimy gray industrial-marine patina. The model railroaders tend to be the experts on this stuff. However decided, it will be an imaginative delight.

Regards to all! Tom

Tk Tom!

I was able to apply the second coat this afternoon, slightly tinted green with a mix of Humbrol matte 103 beige and Revell 39 green. You really have to put 3 times nothing, half a drop for both. It will get even darker with the MIG wavelet product which is also tinted more greenish brown

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With the MIG Wavelet product on top can you eliminate the viscous curvature at the edge? I will be following this application as sometime in this decade I will get around to actually doing the water for my waterline Alaska CB1.

Regards: Tom

Yeah, that'll hide them.

These gates would have probably leaked quite a bit and the dock needed some draining all the time, hence also the grille across the entrance. So a bit of leaking resin isn't a drama.

I have been using normal artists' acrylic gel for simulating waves etc. for decades. No need for fancy and expensive model hobby products.

Indeed, all dry dock doors leak a bit for various reasons, a small stripping pump is usually always in use.

The demoulding went almost well. I had a problem with the release agent, which must have reacted with the resin when I poured it. I shouldn't have used anything, the mould plates were so smooth that it wouldn't have stuck. Experience is the sum of our mistakes.

I was still confident because I had more than 0.5 mm to sand down to a smooth and transparent surface.

I was confident to recover the damage because I had seen this video a while ago, the guy was going a long way with his resin cut and re-polished.
https://youtu.be/2VwbqkB_7Aw

I started with 240, 800 and 1000 paper, I don't have a 3000 at the moment, so I used a Belgom Alu polishing paste, then a polish. It's coming out quite well.

I still have to apply the wavelets.

The naval architecture of Nomadic reminds me a lot of the Star Ferries in Hong Kong, a relic of the same era, though they use Diesel engines, for at least the last 70 years or so.

Look'n good! Tom

Pascal,

This is looking so realistic that I can almost smell the rotting fish at the bottom of the drydock!!!!

Seriously, this is one fantastic project - enjoying it all!!!

Hank

Tks Tom & Hank!

That's it for this corner, a few touch-ups with clear matte varnish to do.

Looks like all the algae is floating to the top! With the breeze perhaps the fisherman wishes he had brought that small anchor...

A little whimsey, a little model humor! C'est Bon!

Beautiful.

I use artists' acrylic gel for water surface texture. One can build up little wavelets and also use a bristle brush to stipple the surface to give the impression of a breeze going over it. This takes away the plastic look from cast resin etc.

Interesting, do you have a link in France for this type of product and the brand you use?

Any art-shop has them. Brands available in France include Liquitex or Lascaux:

https://lascaux.ch/en/products/painting ... pasto-gels

https://www.liquitex.com/row/products/p ... el-medium/

There are other brands, but these two came to my mind. I currently use the Liquitex gel. These gels come also in different viscosities and are used for a painting technique that the artists call 'impasto'.

Thank Wefalck!

Today I have put up my lampposts, the mooring rods, the fishing rod for my old unshaven Irishman who is trying to fish, but only seaweed for the moment , the mooring line of the small boat in stretched plastic. I still have to glue the capstans which are in paint.

I am waiting for brass plates to make a nameplate for the ship.

Some pictures.

Today I did some riveting.

A lot of them I must say! 3500 or so.

This plate will be fixed on the free wall of the quay, to be painted of course.

I was inspired by the Titanic's bulkhead which was raised from the ocean floor and which can be seen in museums and in travelling exhibitions.

I printed the sheet metal plate, it came out very well.

I also printed some porthole windows to practice this difficult exercise a second time.

Here the crystal resin windows have to fit perfectly into the window holes. This is complicated in 3D resin because a printed hole will be 0.6 mm smaller than what you have drawn. And the window glass will also be 0.6mm larger, so you have to take this into account when drawing, not easy, but it works.

You can see on the drawing that the windows are smaller than the porthole. In the end, in real life, there will be no space left.

These Titanic windows are specific, they turn on a central axis to open. I couldn't paint the colour of the brass frame, it's too risky with a brush, but not impossible with Maskol.

img]https://s.blogcdn.com/slideshows/images/slides/359/846/2/S3598462/slug/l/visitors-look-at-a-13-ton-section-of-the-hull-of-t-1.jpg[/img]

Good engineering getting the items to fit so closely. I had some similar issues (not as close a tolerance) in getting the turrets to fit properly in my M4 Tanks.

Thank you for giving a seminar by example on 3D model making!

Tom

Looking very lovely!

I especially like the water and slime in the drain gulleys either side if the centre of the drydock!
==> Thats is inspired!

JIM B