The Ship Model Forum

Your rigging is very neat Timmy!!



Can't imagine myself building a prewar ship with all those aerials.......

Keep it up!
Nick

Hi Timmy

Very very good
Luciano

Hi Timmy, thanks for the link through to this project, I see what you mean about the paintwork for the photoetch and it now gives me more confidence for my next kit.
I must say you have done a wonderful job on this one, and I was really amazed that Hasegawa had done a
Pre-Dreadnought ship, it is unusual for a mainstream manufacturer isn't it?
I enjoyed the thread, THANKS.
Ray

Blown away Tim your Mikasa is looking fantastic.
after looking over your build I have had to add a Mikasa to my must get list.

why dont you try some oil washes on the deck?
The kit if i remember well has regressed plank lines which would make it an easy job.
And it will add a lot more depth and color variation from a simple pencil.
And if you are too scared to ruin the paint job remember this:
He who dares wins!!

well most of the times anyway.

Thanks for all the replies guys!

@Kostas: As I painted my deck with acrylics, I'm not sure if it'll be a good idea to use oils on it. It's too late to put on barrier coats, too, unfortunately. Maybe next time, hehe.


The rigging is almost finished! Only the two long foremast-bow runs need to be done.

As I have terrible luck with using incense to tighten rigging, I try to make sure they're taut before putting the glue on. In order to make the lines taut, you need to have a strong anchor point at at least one end of the line. Many of the lines terminate at a solid surface perpendicular to the line's direction. In order to not have the line's attachment point to be off-center, I make a small metal eyehook and pass the line through that. Thus, I can apply pressure to the line while maintaining an attachment point relatively close to where it's supposed to be and have a strong attachment point.

In the past two days, I've switched to Uni-Mono nylon monofilament line as my rigging material. It is roughly the same diameter as my medium-size stretched sprue. The main reason of this is due to my inability to reliably stretch sprue that is of consistent diameter.

Asides from constant diameter, an additional benefit of using fly-tying line is that you can tie it! Thus, an even stronger attachment can be done.

The clear property of the line is a mixed blessing - if not under direct light, it will appear dull and the transparentness means it can appear thinner than it actually is. However, if viewed from a different direction, the clearness may bend and focus light from different directions, making the line more obvious to the viewer (and thus appearing thicker than it actually is).

Timmy,

You do a great job with those hooks and rigging I wish I can match your work - I will be rigging for the first time planning to use stretched sprue and cigarette (I am still a smoker)

Yevgeniy

hi timmy,i don,t know how fine the pencil you used is, but i found a very fine tipped black pen at staples. it is called micron 005#1 archival ink.it says it is waterproof and fade proof.made by sakura color products japan.it makes a very fine black line,i used it on scribed decking on my roma.heres what it looks like.
your mikasa is looking good,good luck at the show

Timmy she is looking awesome!