Tin Can (DD/DE) Group Build!

[Christian Bruer]

Hi all,

wow, a lot of fine builds and interesting projects

@Carl, what a clean and fast build on the fine JAG Sumner kit. Carl, please allow a comment. If it is possible, replace the kits 5" gun barrels, the look to prominent (my opinion). I havn't replaced them on my Frank E. Evans, but on my J.P. Kennedy. I have used 0.5mm plastic rod for replacing the barrels, they work well!

[NukeMM]

Hi all,

wow, a lot of fine builds and interesting projects

@Carl, what a clean and fast build on the fine JAG Sumner kit. Carl, please allow a comment. If it is possible, replace the kits 5" gun barrels, the look to prominent (my opinion). I havn't replaced them on my Frank E. Evans, but on my J.P. Kennedy. I have used 0.5mm plastic rod for replacing the barrels, they work well!

Thank you, Christian! I'm really, really glad that you like my Sumner.

I know what you mean about the 5" barrels. They have been bothering me, too. Can I leave the blast bags and just snip off the barrels? I may use brass rod instead of styrene, but not sure yet.

Thanks for the advice. Others have noticed and some have mentioned the barrels, too.

[taskforce48]

Good job so far everyone! Gordon, I see another award winner in the making. Looking forward to getting some work done on the Ward and posting pictures.

Matt

[Christian Bruer]

I know what you mean about the 5" barrels. They have been bothering me, too. Can I leave the blast bags and just snip off the barrels? I may use brass rod instead of styrene, but not sure yet.

Hi Carl,
attached are two photos to show the contrast between the kit barrels and the modification with 0.5mm plastic rod.

Mhh, but it seems to me, that 0.5mm is still too thick, 0.3mm could be a good choice, but then you should use brass as mentioned.
As you can see I left the blast bags on my F.E. Evans. I cut of the resin barrels and glued the plastic rod directly to the blast bags, without drilling a hole into them. If you will use thinner brass rod, you should drill a hole into the blast bags.

Hope that helps so far?!

[NukeMM]

I know what you mean about the 5" barrels. They have been bothering me, too. Can I leave the blast bags and just snip off the barrels? I may use brass rod instead of styrene, but not sure yet.

Hi Carl,
attached are two photos to show the contrast between the kit barrels and the modification with 0.5mm plastic rod.

Mhh, but it seems to me, that 0.5mm is still too thick, 0.3mm could be a good choice, but then you should use brass as mentioned.
As you can see I left the blast bags on my F.E. Evans. I cut of the resin barrels and glued the plastic rod directly to the blast bags, without drilling a hole into them. If you will use thinner brass rod, you should drill a hole into the blast bags.

Hope that helps so far?!

Thanks for the pictures, Christian!

Your eyes must have been playing tricks on you. There is hardly a difference to the nake eye between the barrels on the two ships. Maybe you "did" change the barrels on the Evans and forgot that you did.

That looks like the Gearing FRAM I, right? That one is on my list to complete, too. Is that antenna on the turret permanent or just for the picture? Something like that, I always leave until the end of the model. I'm prone to bust antennas, masts, etc. off while working on the rest of the model. You must have more confidence in yourself, than I do.

I'll probably change the barrels on my Sumner sometime in the future. I'll definately change them on future JAG models with the same problem. I should add that small antenna to turret #1, like you have on the Evans, though.

Did you study the Sumner FRAM II by Brett Marrow on the JAG Gallery? Wow! He added some almost impossible details to his. Super nice!

Thanks again, Christian!

[Timmy C]

5" is 127mm, so in 1/700 that would be .18mm - if you include the thickness of the barrel, you can probably go with 0.2mm.

[drdoom1337]

Builds are looking great, lets see some more photos. My project is on stall, temporarily. Ran out of paint!

[Pieter]

Spent a few days building up manhole covers in .64mm rod. There's 12 of them and they refused to stay in place off course! Total time in project: about 16hrs.

[ArizonaBB39]

Id like to submit my 1/350 USS Livermore in 1944 fit in MS32 camouflage. I already started a build thread in WIP here: USS Livermore. I hope thats ok

[taskforce48]

Abram,

That's great! The more the merrier, just keep us updated with your build progress here as the posts are a little funky and your link to the WIP might vanish. Looking forward to seeing updates.

Matt

[taskforce48]

Here is a quick update for the Ward, at this time most of the major PE has been either placed or shaped, really just down to the bow and bridge now and then the final detailing of paint and such. I am aiming to have her done this weekend.

Matt

[Gordon Bjorklund]

Abram, Welcome to the GB. I'm looking forward to more pictures of your Livermore build.

Matt, You have made some great progress on your Ward build. I'm looking forward to your finished build.

Pieter, Your HMS Havock build is coming along nicely. I have enjoyed following along on your build.

David, You, also have made some progress on your Monssen build and I'm looking forward to more progress pictures.

My Fletcher build is moving along. I had it soaking in Dawn dishwashing soap earlier this week. If Dawn can remove the crude oil off of the Pelicans in the Gulf, it should be able to remove finger print oils off of the plastic pieces. I then got all the major pieces primed and ready for some paint.

The Tamiya Fletcher kit doesn't come with flag bags, so I made them using .100x.188 plastic strip, cut and sanded to shape. The tops of which will be covered by tarps made out of tea bags.

Fletcher soaking in Dawn.

Fletcher primed and ready for some paint.

I was able to get my Monssen primed and ready for paint along with my Buchanan ready for it's turn in a Dawn bath.

Thay both have primer on them now. (6-19-10)

Monssen and Buchanan in primer.

Until next time, I hope your builds are enjoyable.

[Mark McKinnis]

My first weekend home in awhile has produced a few results. This is what I have on Niko's 1/700 scale USS Coontz DDG-40. This is one of the best kits I have seen as far as build quality goes. I am looking forward to building the line of post war cruisers thay have .

[Quincy]

All of you guys builds are coming along great!!!

I have to get crackin' on mine.





Bob Pink.

[navydavesof]

My first weekend home in awhile has produced a few results. This is what I have on Niko's 1/700 scale USS Coontz DDG-40. This is one of the best kits I have seen as far as build quality goes. I am looking forward to building the line of post war cruisers thay have .

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m109 ... G_4265.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m109 ... G_4264.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m109 ... G_4263.jpg

No way, Mark! These are some beautiful shots. Even though it's not finished, could you post some more close ups?

[Mark McKinnis]

I am back on the road today. I will get some more shots when I get back.

Keep up the good work!

MM

[ArizonaBB39]

Just a small update. Work has been progressing slowly at the moment.

[ArizonaBB39]

Thanks for the replies guys. Here are a few update photos of my build:





For the nonskid area decals I cut some of the longer sections into pieces to ease in application. The hull is finished now and the decks are glued into place. None of the superstructure pieces are glued down though. I am really enjoying this build. I recommend the Dragon kit.

[Gordon Bjorklund]

Abram, Your Livermore looks great. You have made some great progress on your build.

I have added some color to my Fletcher. I airbrushed the Navy Blue and then I brush painted the anti-skid area Euro-Gray and then painted the deck Deck Blue.

[ArizonaBB39]

Gordon thanks for the comments. Just a quick update. I've test fitted the pieces on the stern of the ship. I still need to modify the aft gun tubs for two 40mm guns, but that shouldnt be too hard. (I hope!)