Page 5 of 9
Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 4:41 pm
by Richard J OMalley
Hi Dave
The amount of pulls you can get from a mold depends on what type of gel coat you use to make the mold .If you use regular gel coat you can get 20-25 hulls before it needs repair of replacing .If tooling gel coat is used I am told you could get over 100 .If I ever sell that maney I will know for sure .
Either way I keep the plug and when its time I can just make another mold .

Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:13 am
by Dave Wooley
Thanks Richard . I am always amazed at the quality of the mouldings I see . I know of course its all in the hard work of preparation and the importance of a good plug as you have shown so well .Another question , how long do you leave the model in the mould for . It has been mentioned to me that if you pull to soon from the mould there is a chance that the hull could distort , is this a real problem .
Dave Wooley

Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 8:51 am
by Richard J OMalley
Hi Dave
It all depends on things like temp at the time vs the amount of hardener that was used .It is all temp related .Under a ideal situation I leave it in the mold for twenty-four hr then remove it .After that I put it back in the mold and let it sit for three to five days .If this is not done then yes it can warp .

Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:33 pm
by Richard J OMalley
Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:01 am
by Guest
Hi All
My wife is in the hospital so I haven't done much .I did spray PVA on the stern .While that is drying I installed the bolts that will hold the mold together when I make a hull .The port side mold support was drilled on my milling machine so the holes would be 90 degrees to the wood .Then I used a hand drill to drill through the starboard side using the starboard side as a guide .
1/4" carrage bolts are used so they will become inbedded in the wood .I put epoxy glue on the heads also .
Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:21 am
by Richard J OMalley
Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 10:45 am
by russclark
boy oh boy richard,the amount of work you are putting into the mould is amazing.the hulls that come out of it are going to be beautiful.i wait with baited breath to see the results

Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 1:05 am
by DrPR
Richard,
This is an education in mold making. You won't have to worry about it accidentally coming apart!
Is there any danger from allowing the mold pieces to remain in contact with the plug for a long time?
Hope your wife is doing well.
Phil
Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 6:57 pm
by Richard J OMalley
Hi Russ
I wait with baited breath also !
Phil
If the plug was fully cured and there is enough release wax on the plug ,then it should pop out any time .( should )

My wife is out of the hospital and is flying around on her broom .

Thanks for asking .
Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 3:25 am
by Richard J OMalley
Hi All
I had to order more tooling gel coat to finish the stern .UPS just dropped it off so this weekend I will start laying matt on the stern on one piece .In the backround is my next project PG-50 Gunboat Erie in 1/48 .
I used this grinder to trim the edge of the mold .
Port side trimed

Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 5:07 am
by Dave Wooley
Hi Richard Have to agree with Phill this is an education in GRP boat building . I just love to learn those tricks of the trade!
Dave Wooley

Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 7:03 am
by Capit�o Norbert
Hi Richard i agree Dave
the work are fantastic and as don't know nothing about lamination i am learning a lot.
thanks for share

Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 11:37 am
by russclark
richard i agree with norbert and dave,by following this thread one can pretty well learn how to build i glass hull.you make it look easy i know it is not my fiberglassing efforts usualy ends up with my hands getting most of the glass fibers.one thinks you can just smoth things a bit by hand and then you know the outcome,fuzzy sticky hands

Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 2:54 pm
by Richard J OMalley
Hi everyone
I have two layers of matt on the stern .I will put the third layer on today .

Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:09 pm
by aleccap
Sorry, you've got to be kidding, in 1-96 scale ? That's going to be one heck of a build, this is straight onto my favouite list to watch.

Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 12:04 pm
by Dave Wooley
Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 6:38 am
by Capit�o Norbert
sincerely i never do a hull from GRP.
i am learning with this superb topic.
thanks Richard my friend.

Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:09 pm
by Richard J OMalley
Thanks Norbert
I have the sixth and final coat of matt on the stern .It will set up for five days then with any luck the mold will come apart.

Wish me luck !

Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:25 pm
by ARH
Re: T3-S2-A1 Tanker Scratchbuild in 1/96
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 8:20 pm
by johnny canuck
I am watching with great interest in this as I plan to make a mould for my DDE. I belive that you are spraying the gelcoat on in several layers (3?) I had read that if you use 2 or more you risk having the gelcoat wrinkle. Have you had that problem? I am planning to brush on the gelcoat as my compressor does not have the CFP to use a spray gun much bigger than my airbrush and I have to keep the hobby expenses within the acceptable limits of the CO.(she never reads these posts

)
Keep up the excellent posting.