The Ship Model Forum

As ever...

JIM B

With the six sided base prepared the next stage involved marking out the
angled window frames . I thought is better to include the lower half which
will not be seen when in place but will give strength to the frame. In order
to mark out the windows and retain symmetrical continuity a simple jig was
prepared which was measured so that each window would slot into the back
of each side.


The window opening was carefully cut out { new blade recommended}

With these prepared it helps to adjust the height, width and splay of each
window to the marks. For this I found it useful to make tools for the job.
These consisted of strips of timber with wet and dry sand paper bonded to
one side ,. As simple tools go they perform the task they were made for.

See how we get on next time .
Dave Wooley

Great update Dave

I also make the same type of sanding sticks and find them extremly useful.
The wooden type often found at motorway service's for stiring your coffee are very good
Roy

roy allen wrote:Great update Dave

I also make the same type of sanding sticks and find them extremly useful.
The wooden type often found at motorway service's for stiring your coffee are very good
Roy

No wonder I can never find them you beat me to it!

Dave Wooley

Each lower set of windows were prepared .

The next stage was to scribe the inner mark were the window frame slopes
forward, remembering not to sever the top from the lower half , Each lower half
is then located into and around the inside of the base .

When all the �lower� frames are fitted the assembly is placed against the
sloping side of the bridge so minor adjustments can be made and to ensure
a good fit.

This is followed by adding the upper level of backward sloping window frames.
As the upper frame is a mirror of the lower frame only the top half , the window frame is required .

The top is a reduced version of the base and is cut to slot into the side of the
bridge roof.

The basic FLYCO is now ready and is fitted into place.

Although only a very small part of the overall build and in its basic form this
small item effected the entire construction and completion of the outstanding
work on the island . Its near completion means real progress can now be made .
Dave Wooley

Very nicely done Dave.

Thanks Ron . It seems the more I do to the model the more that needs to be done. By the way I've taken delivery of 15 Resin 1:144 kits of the Yak 38 fighter for Kiev. A photo is shown on the manufactures board. Although I scratch built one the prospect of building a further 11 filled me with dred. So unlike your self I have succumbed to the dark side and turned to almost completed models to help build Kiev shame on me
Dave Wooley

Dave, There,s nothing wrong in doing that, a lot of the guys dont build the air wings, takes to long.

Once again Dave--your photos show exactly how and what you are doing-- great modelmaking!!



JIM B

JIM BAUMANN wrote:Once again Dave--your photos show exactly how and what you are doing-- great modelmaking!!



JIM B

Thank you Jim much appriciated. As Ron says in his build threads "warts and all" or how it is .
Dave Wooley

After almost three years and 2 months of searching I received
15 resin Yak 38 VTOL aircraft for Kiev . Whilst I scratch built
a prototype which is shown down the board . I kept searching for
a possible source. The reason for this was two fold . 1 . Continuity
in the building of 12 models. 2 I wanted to have a clear cockpit canopy.
At last I came across Nostalgic Plastic that markets a number of
specialist 1:144 resin aircraft kits. They informed me that Anigrand
of Hong Kong were tooling up to manufacture the Yak 38 at that magic
scale 1:144. Each kit , as you would expect comes complete with a
decal set , which includes the red chevron, Soviet red stars and the
small Soviet Naval ensign found on the side of the fuselage plus
the aircraft numbers.

The kit is well detailed even down to the ejector seat. Which I believe on
the Yak 38s was definitely not for show.


This is a well manufactured resin kit and each of the parts , for example the
wings fit well with only a small amount of preparation required. .

How the Yak 38 appears as a museum piece . Other photos show the blue colour scheme to be gloss not matt as this picture would perhaps indicate.

A view of the inside of the cockpit , controls etc .

An all grey finish

Yak 38 aboard Kiev early 1980s

My own scratch built effort, not quite there. Fuselage of timber , wings styrene , cockpit scavenged !

Now to prepare the other 14 resin kits.
Dave Wooley

Dave, doing the inside of the cockpit on 14 is a bit over the top

ARH wrote:Dave, doing the inside of the cockpit on 14 is a bit over the top

What a challenge but fearing the men in the white coats I'll give the cockpit a miss. BUT I have the deck crew, all 50 of em at 1:144.
Dave Wooley

Lucky Man!! Clear cockpits in 1/144! Man, I envy you! I'm using J.R.Haynes a/c on the Santee build. They too are a nice little resin and cast metal parts kit, but alas, no clear canopys. I have about 17 a/c. To do cockpit details and try to make the clear canopys would be way too time consuming. The effect of a painted silver canopy is rather dull. (See my recent post on the Santee build) Anyway, you're build is looking top notch as usual. Congrats on finding the planes............Bill W

Hi Bill good to hear from you . JHs resin aircraft are superb. A friend of mine has just completed the USS Gambia Bay 1:96 using JHs and like yourself has made a excellent resin model into an outstanding example of the aircraft carried on that CVE. Aircraft are not my strong point so I'll have to have more than a good chat with my local IPMS aircraft enthusiast group to see how I can improve my painting techniques . I've approched WEM to try and ensure that the blue is the right blue before ordering my stock . Although I have the resin KA 25s helos they do not have a clear front . So I've set about trying locate a 1:144 KA25 with a clear front , no luck so far.
Keep posting Bill All these builds inspire me and keep me going on this marathon build of mine. I look forward to more of yours.
Dave Wooley

Hi Dave,
i know a guy at our club who would do the cockpit interior, forgot to say ,yes, he is stark raving mad . He's picked up the nickname The Prof.

must admit they are nice looking resin aircraft.

Roy

Hi Roy "Cockpit" way way beyond me . I'll be happy with the dials and joy stick Now I have the bit between the teeth I'm after the 1:144 resin KA25 ASW helo , with clear canopy.
Dave Wooley

Dave Wooley wrote:Hi Bill good to hear from you . JHs resin aircraft are superb. A friend of mine has just completed the USS Gambia Bay 1:96 using JHs and like yourself has made a excellent resin model into an outstanding example of the aircraft carried on that CVE. Aircraft are not my strong point so I'll have to have more than a good chat with my local IPMS aircraft enthusiast group to see how I can improve my painting techniques . I've approched WEM to try and ensure that the blue is the right blue before ordering my stock . Although I have the resin KA 25s helos they do not have a clear front . So I've set about trying locate a 1:144 KA25 with a clear front , no luck so far.
Keep posting Bill All these builds inspire me and keep me going on this marathon build of mine. I look forward to more of yours.
Dave Wooley

There is a Ka-25 in the Anigrand Tu-126 kit: http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/kits/ ... 4006.shtml

Expensive, but you might be able to sell the fixed wing models or hunt down a Ka-25 that someone didn't want to build.

Furthermore, this site: http://airalex.homestead.com/COLDWAR.html certainly seems to indicate that there is a resin Ka-27 out there, maybe the owner can provide more details.

Finally, there is always the option of contacting Lindin Hill Imports. They have excellent ties with the Eastern European / Russian companies, many of whom make obscure kits.

Cheers,
Linz

Thank you Linz just the information I need . I'll follow this up ASAP.
Dave Wooley

With the prospect of painting getting closer a number of jobs needed to be tackled .
1 . Adding more of the rails to the superstructure that can be added .
2 To prepare the bridge roof so it will remain removable yet retain the curved top front edge .
This photo of Kiev gives some idea of the areas needing to be prepared.

The roof needed to be removable at least until all the superstructure has been painted .
The reason for this was two fold . 80% of the roof and the flat surfaces are the standard
orange /red colour . The fronts top edge of both fore and aft bridges are curved and
have a rail fixed to the surface of the roof but back from the edge , a sort of demarcation
line following the shape of the bridge , this area is painted grey.


The other reason was to ensure that glazing of the windows could be undertaken with
out to much of a problem . For this to happen the bridge roof needs to be removable but
painting has to have been completed both interior and exterior.
The basic assembly of the main superstructure

The out board side of the superstructure . As mentioned previously there is an
assortment of 4 and 3 bar rails.


The after bridge with the roof removed

Looking up towards the after bridge . The under bridge wing supports can�t be
fitted until the whole bridge is permanently in place .

First the edging is marked and carefully removed from the rest of the roof.

The rectangular shape at the front is the recess for the �Owl Screech � gun director .

Supports are added to the underside of the outer edging .

More to follow
Dave Wooley