The Ship Model Forum

Hmmm?

I'd like to try some out.. where can I find it?

Thanks,

Tim

yikes, 38 views.. no replies.

c'mon now, I know some of you use this stuff. You can't hide, I WILL find you

i've never used it so i dont know. Ron said he always got it from a photography place... but i believe half way through with the ID he said that they stopped using lithoplate so he took as much as he could and that was the end of the litho.

kennylibben wrote:i've never used it so i dont know. Ron said he always got it from a photography place... but i believe half way through with the ID he said that they stopped using lithoplate so he took as much as he could and that was the end of the litho.

Hi , We have found the Holy Grail, well a new supplier, Scoucegit is working for a company that has a load spare,

want to ship some to the states for me?

Kenny wants armour for his ships ^^

actually i want it for a top-secret scratchbuild i'm planning.... but i dont have the right materials...such as litho plate.

Kenny wants armour for his ironclads ^^

Try Googling? Here's one:
http://storesense2.megawebservers.com/H ... Detail.bok

Or make your own? I've seen dry film resists sold for self laminating onto your circuit board or other base metal... couldn't find the one I remembered, but stumbled onto this one:
http://www.capefearpress.com/puretch.html

Looks interesting! Just wish they sold it in smaller quantities.

Pat Matthews

If you are using it just for the thin aluminum, call printers in the yellow pages.

Not the Kinkos types but print shops that do lots of big long run jobs.

If you want material with the resist, then you will need to contact a printing supply house.

Timmy said:

Kenny wants armour for his ships

Timmy, do you really think Kenny would be that dispicable? Ahhhh, forget I said that.

Place your orders please

Available in various sheet sizes and two thicknesses IE thin and thick. the later is about 1/32.

I don't work there anymore - mores the pity, but i can still get quite large amounts as we are still on talking terms.

Scouse.

scouse can you get us some prices? my biggest fear is the shipping rates... i'll try to get some estimates on them... dont want to pay too much!

dont want to pay too much!

Yes, well, I can imagine that. You will have to pay at least the scap value plus my bit on top. The shipping cost could well be prohibitive as you rightly fear

The Largest sheet is 28 3/4" x 23 1/4" approx, the smaller, thinner, ones are about A4 size.

Scouse

what so great about litho? i mean, why it over others?

i've found some cheap tin and aluminum sheeting that i think might do the job....

What's so great about litho plate?

Nothing really, but is an easy source of thin aluminum.

My wife was in the printing business in San Francisco, and I was able to fish all the litho plate I needed out of the garbage, so I used it. It is also has a reasonably hard temper, so it does not dent or scratch easily. It is also availble as a thin stock, which was not so easy to buy from a metal dealer.

If you have a cheap source of .010" aluminum, then you don't need it.

If all you need is thin-gauge aluminum,why not use aluminum flashing they have Home Depot or Lowes? It comes in rolls of about 6"-8"x 10' and fairly inexpensive from what I remember.

Jim B.

As I said it was readily available for free, and it is a hard temper, so it can be bent and not dent up. Flashing is softer material; but there is no reason not to use flashing material. Before the common use of aluminum foil in households, modelers used old gum and cigarette foil to cover models; you use what ya got. Some time ago, in the world of FAI free flight competition models, the Russians used a very thin hard temper aluminum to cover the wings as it gave a very true low drag wing. What ever it was it was unavailable in the west, I always thought it was like litho plate, but in very big sheets to get the seamless finish. Stuff like flashing was too soft to form in continuous airfoil shapes.

Dear all!

I have a question on plating (Before I only made injection plastic kits and started two paper projects (from where I learned about ribs and plans) but latest very lively discussion started by Rene on Main Forum "How difficult is it to scratchbuilt?" inspired by interest in this area).

Is it common practice that ribs are first covered by balsa/plywood/plastic and only after they are covered by litho plate? Can they be covered by litho at once without intermediary-balsa-layer? May be more thick litho (not 0,10 mm)? I guess in this case there shall be much more ribs (?) - the advantage is smother hull lines (if ribs are OK) and more realistic build - like on real yard!

Yevgeniy

From what I recall of ARH's builds, there is no need to cover the ribs with litho, as the litho serves mainly as a cosmetic function in the form of hull plating, which will not be seen if it were to cover the ribs.