The Ship Model Forum

I will be starting actual building this week. Monday Jan, 7th,2013
It will be a display model.
I have my plans from Floating Drydock and several books.
I have built two previous Missouri's
My last version was 1:175 scale.
I will post progress.
Here is a link to previous models.
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... -main.html

Yes...Boring right???


Well check out some of my models.
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

hello Lucky best of luck with your build of the Missouri I'll be watching for up dates
Dave Wooley

Dave Wooley wrote:hello Lucky best of luck with your build of the Missouri I'll be watching for up dates
Dave Wooley

Thanks Dave. I hope to make this my best model with all of
the great photos available now of the USS Missouri on this site.

Well I already have a question for the experts.

I recently bought a set of plans and have a question about the measurements page.
(Floating Drydock TFW)

The list of molded heights and bridges & elevated platforms has a note at the bottom that says..

"molded base line of ship is 2" above bottom of keel."

When building my model do I need to take that into consideration
on this 1/16 scale model of the 1990 USS Missouri?

Was a zinc sticking down on the bottom of the hull? LOL..lol

Otherwise do I need to add 2" ( scale measurement) to all of
the heights? Or .010 thousandths of an inch.

The mold lines are actually the lines to the inside of the steel plating, not the outside. At 192nd the difference would be negligible so I would ignore it. That kind of stuff is usually important to CAD guys, but no modeler in his right mind has ever worried about it.

Luky,

Because elevations are referenced to the Base Line the 2" offset doesn't matter for the superstructure and upper hull. The relative distances between these elevations is independent of the absolute distance above the base line. The only place you will see some "error" is in the curvature of the bottom half of the hull.

0.010" is about the thickness of three sheets of notebook paper, and the paint on the hull will be a significant part of that thickness. So it really isn't worth worrying about.

This is especially true if you are working from whole ship plan view drawings because these often aren't very accurate. The line thicknesses in these drawings often exceed 0.010" and that can introduce 2" to 3" errors at 1:192. The original blueprint whole ship drawings are just "sketches" that were produced to show the relative positions of parts of the ship, and they often do not contain all of the modifications that were made during construction.

****

For what it is worth, the thickness of keel plates normally varied from thinest at bow and stern and thicker under the engineering spaces. But since all of the keel plates rest on the same structure during construction the bottom of the keel is flat. This means the inside of the plating is not a constant level.

As Rob said, the molded lines are normally to the inside of the hull plating. But because the keel plates vary in thickness they just pick the top of one of the plate thicknesses midships for the Base Line.

If you were modeling at 1:96, 1:72 or larger you would want to take all of this into account to make an accurate hull. But at smaller scales where the differences are less than the thickness of the paint there is no point in worrying about it.

Phil

Thanks for the detailed replies!

I found out a sheet of notebook paper is .006-.007 thousandths.
I bought drawings that were supposed to be 1:192 but they are off.
The top view of the hull (LOA) was supposed to be 55-1/2" and is 57".

So I have to solve that problem. Or else build the model to 1:191 scale,
but then the guns and other parts would not be correct.

Got to get the drawing closer to start with.

I started building the hull Scale 1:191
LOA 57 inches
This is my 3rd Missouri this size.
My first photo:
Pine bread and butter hull with poplar top slab 1/4 inch.
It was so cold today that when I squeezed the bottle of glue the container cracked.
After getting this all glued together I will start marking out the station lines.
Cutting out the fat.

The Japanese saw would not do it ,the sawzall would not do it, so I went outside
and used a vice and a skill saw and finished it with a carpenters saw.
Can anyone tell me the length of that small skeg that goes between the two large skegs???

Luky:

Chech my post in the calling all fans thread about the overall length for your ship. Easy to get it all straightened out now instead of later. Had my Tom's PE show up today. Really a fine product!

Cheers: Tom

Fliger747 wrote:Luky:

Chech my post in the calling all fans thread about the overall length for your ship. Easy to get it all straightened out now instead of later. Had my Tom's PE show up today. Really a fine product!

Cheers: Tom

Yes I got that measurement.
Working on the bow right now.
I would not proceed until it is right.

Looks like quick progress, i can see why you went outside! Do you have a particular technique for the concave curves near the bow?

Cherrs. Tom

Fliger747 wrote:Looks like quick progress, i can see why you went outside! Do you have a particular technique for the concave curves near the bow?

Cherrs. Tom

Yes that is problematic.
Last time I used a round rasp. I think I must have had more inthusiasum back then.
This time I think I will take it back outside and use a 4 inch grinder.

I hope it goes well. LO..lol

That concave starts at the bow and extends back 14 inches on a taper.
I am glueing up the stern and bow deck where it rams up a little.
I had to cut and make long taper wedges. Lots of work.

It is 30�F outside.

I think I will glue the deck ramps on at bow and stern instead.
Here are the photos of the wedge shaped pieces I made.
Now the deck is the correct measurement above the base line.

I want to let anyone following this thread know that the scale of my model will be 1:187 because
my top view drawing I got from Floating Drydock (TFW) was 57 inches LOA.

It will not be a problem.

Guest wrote:I want to let anyone following this thread know that the scale of my model will be 1:187 because
my top view drawing I got from Floating Drydock (TFW) was 57 inches LOA.

It will not be a problem.

Make sure you fold the top view drawing down the
centerline and trim so that both sides are symmetrical.

I did some serious work today.
Lots of wood dust.

I am ready now to make the skegs and rudders.
I will need to find some nice hard wood.

My 02 deck did not line up with the 01 deck on the aft end.
The 02 deck (fortunately) was larger and will have to be sanded to fit.

Seems like all the drawings are off.

I got some better photos to work with and i also got a 1/700 scale model of the 1991 version Missouri.
I had to do some reworking of the parts I had already cut.

Be aware that the 1/700 Trumpeter/Pit-Road Missouri has errors, particularly in the shape of the top of the main tower - the ECM housing is not accurately depicted.

Timmy C wrote:Be aware that the 1/700 Trumpeter/Pit-Road Missouri has errors, particularly in the shape of the top of the main tower - the ECM housing is not accurately depicted.

Thanks for pointing that out to me Timmy.

The kit i have is the 1991 version.
"Pit Road"? What does that mean?
Is the ECM (round ball)? you are talking about located on the main tower?