The Ship Model Forum

By the next week I will have finished graf spee, so lets start something newer

I have this kit. I'll be watching this one with great interest.

Bob

guys help

I'm looking chain for 1:350 scale for the destroyer

will it be good?

http://www.hobbysta.pl/lancuszek-p-4626 ... uknkfs82f7

robertmelvin wrote:I have this kit. I'll be watching this one with great interest.

Bob

I have a question for you

Did you remove plastic doors and used PE doors? For me there is no difference between plastic and PE doors

It varies for me from kit to kit. With some kits it really makes a difference. In others, particularly those of more recent vintage, the molded on kit doors look about as good as the PE replacements. My personal approach to PE is to use it if it makes a noticeable difference in the detail/appearance of the finished ship. If not, leave well enough alone and stick with the kit parts. In you case, the only reason I could see for replacing the kit doors, if they are that good, would be if you wanted to model some of them in the open position.

I hope this helps.

Bob

I glued deck



and starting PE



I decited to use PE doors

drilling time









one piece of superstructure

I'm surprised you were able to get that much control with that big drill, but they came out looking very good. I have to admit, I don't have the patience for a pin vice either. I use a Dremel with the Flex Shaft. I also use a foot pedal power/speed control. If I take my time and keep my drill speed low I find I get pretty good results.

You were asking about removing the molded on hatches and using PE. I couldn't get the greatest look at the molded on hatches from the shot you posted, but from what I could see they look fine to me. I'll pull my kit out tonight and take a close look at the hatches and let you know what I think. Frankly, I don't use PE just for the sake of using it. Sometimes the kit part is actually just as good, maybe even better, than the representation you get from PE. Some things just look to flat or two dimensional in PE and I usually stick with the kit part in those instances. To me, PE only needs to be used when it truely adds something to the model. The only two thing that I regard as pretty much a necessity in PE are railings and radars. They just can't be reproduced in anything like a realistic manner in plastic.

I'm enjoying watching your build.

Bob

I agree with you kit door are much better rather than PE....but I started glue PE so I will change the rest doors. But next time I will spend more time to think if I should remove plastic part and replace it

Yeah, I was just sitting down to tell you that I had pulled my kit out of the stash and looked over the parts with hatches. I would definitely have just stayed with the kit hatches. What you might want to do, just to make the effort of adding the PE worth it, is model some of those hatches open. Just remember to model them so the open toward the bow. On U.S.N. ships at least hatches opened toward the bow in case a big wave came over the bow and rolling down the deck. That way the water would close the door, rather than force them open if they were not properly secured.

Bob

second



eduard didn't give covers for the windows It is Paul Jacobi photo.



so lets make them

A humble suggestion. You might want to consider painting the inside of the superstructure where you are opening up those windows black, and cut a piece of sheet styrene to run fore and aft and glue it down the middle of the superstructure section. That way you won't have daylight coming through those open windows from the other side. Just a thought. Also, if you want to show "glass" you can use a product called Micro Krystal Klear to make "glass" for windows and portholes. Another product that will work for that is Model Master's Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker. Both make passable looking "glass" at that scale. I use the Krystal Klear myself, but have used the other and they both work well. You can also use them for making "lenses" for searchlights by putting an appropriately sized drop on a piece of wax paper. Once it dries, you have a clear "lens". If you want to color the lens, add a drop of food coloring.

You are coming along nicely and making good progress. I'm enjoying your build very much.

Bob

For light lenses, and this works great in any scale, use 2 part epoxy glue (as long as it is clear!). Mix up a little blob of glue and apply it with a toothpick to the light housing. As long as the glue is still in it's semi-liquid state you will be able to add to the surface until it is properly filled - as long as there is a raised rim, or bezel, around the light it will contain the flow of glue. If you really want to be anal, you can drill out the light housing and paint the interior silver. The glue will naturally assume a slightly convex surface, and dries crystal clear. Looks even better on larger scale models where you want to put lenses on instrument dials (vehicles, aircraft, etc.). When cured, the convex surface actually magnifies the instrument dial beneath making it more visable.

next time I will buy humbrol clearfix

I made covers



a few pieces of superstructure





probably in the nearest future I will buy dragon smartkit (Z-32 or -Z-39 with stripe camo ) I have to practise stripe camo before I start working with admiral hipper

nice work biegacz keep the way
cheers
Nicolas

Well done on the cover's. Good little bit of scratch building there. Looking good. All ahead flank!

Bob

first funnel



second in progress



does anyone know anything about the funnel pipe? I think they were only on 1934 but I'm not sure

another small update

not equal but I haven't had enough skill yet to make it better. I'm building without any lenses

Looking good so far! You're making good progress, to.

Bob