Deep see through inland water help

[therese]

Hi all
I'm planning on building a diorama for my HMS Campbeltown (1/700) at the St. Nazaire dock, and need a little help with what type of water to use.
Historical pictures show that the water was fairly calm (just google St. Nazaire raid to see what I mean), and I want the submerged part of the ship slightly visible.
The guy at the store gave med Woodland water effects, but I think this is way too thick to get right when done deep (at some places I think I'll need about 20mm deep).

My diorama will be about the size of an A5 notepad, so more or less 3dl of water. Would resin water be a good idea?

Any tips and tricks for a first time diorama builder would be most welcome

[drasticplastic]

Keep in mind that this is a port during the '40's...water is probably very dirty and murky. Pollutants such as oil, diesel, etc. float on the surface therefore you probably couldn't see very deep - no more than a couple of feet. It was also nighttime so the water was dark. I'm not a big fan of clear pouring resin. What I usually do is place a thin layer (a couple of mm's) of Celluclay. Place the model in before it sets (up to a couple of days). I either waterline my model, or raise it up on thin styrene strips to compensate for the depth of the Celluclay - otherwise they will look like they are way too deep in the water. Paint the surface of the Celluclay whatever color you want the water to be. Then spread on several coats of clear liquid acrylic (it's thicker than varnish) allowing it to dry between coats (just a matter of hours, or overnight). A millimeter, or two, will give the impression of much greater depth. If you're going to build the Campbeltown after ramming the drydock doors, then you may have to saw off part of the rear lower hull at an angle, so that the bows are angled up and exposed.
Examples of clear acrylic over Celluclay:



You MUST paint the water color BEFORE applying the clear liquid acrylic for the illusion of depth. For the ships' wash and wake I stippled on thicker clear acrylic paste.

[therese]

Thank you
My local shop sell acrylic water made by MIG. I'll have to try that out.

You've made a good point about having to cut off parts of the model to make it fit with being partly sunk. My new plan is therefore to make it so that the operation is underway, with soldiers leaving the ship just after ramming (the kit came with teeny tiny PE commandos).
I'm sure it'll turn out great.

Thanks again

[drasticplastic]

I use pouring acrylic medium from companies such as Golden, or Liquitex, available from art supply stores (or a store brand if they have one). Just make sure it says "gloss" or "glassy" on the label - matte finish won't do. These products are the same as modeling brands "water effects", and are often much cheaper!