The Ship Model Forum

Good Day!!!

For those who use various types and sizes of wire for scratchbuilding, I hope this helps.

1. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!! The wire could snap during the process.
2. Cut a pce. of wire about 4" longer than req'd.
3. Clamp one end of the wire in a vise or against a table. The other end gets chucked up in a drill. (I prefer a hand drill as there is less chance of over-twisting)
4. Ensure the drill and wire are straight and parallel. Apply slight tension and start the drill turning.
5. To check for straightness, stop the drill and ease the tension. You'll know when you've achieved the proper effect.

I hope this helps. It's great for making railings, stanchions, etc....

Also, I found a great source of very fine copper wire in an old computer mouse cord; it's a pain stripping the wire, but well worth it.

For little pieces, I put the wire between the cutting mat and a flat piece of wood and push and pull the wood. This rolls the wire between the 2 flat surfaces and gets it straight.

I place the wire on a piece of glass (flat, not textured) and use a 6" metal ruler and roll it back and forth. Getting it started rolling takes a little effort as it needs to be roughly straight in one section, but once it starts going, it is terribly easy to straighten long lengths by straightening a section, then moving it down.

You can also use lock wire pliers. The manual twisting allows better control.

Depending on the thickness and metal type....


I clam one end in a small bench vice and heat the protruding wore using a a cigarette lighter.. and the while the wire is warm pull the other end using pliers.

===> straight wire


Jim Baumann

I have a friend who makes HO railroad diorama kits. His trick for straightening wire is pretty simple. He clamps one end in a vice, rolls out several meters and then gives it a jerk. Presto, very straight wire.