The Ship Model Forum

To me, new models produced these days are expensive and not challenging. Basically everyone can build a model without much challenging work, just buy a photo-etch set specially made for the ship, and that is it.. everyone become expert. To be honest, I cannot afford a model like the new range of 1:350 scale ships, and I also like to build the details myself, tried not to rely too much on photo-etch cos it is not fun afterall.

Zuikaku is one of my favourite Japanese Aircraft Carrier. I have previously made a 1:700 scale of that ship. I saw this model in a model shop in Hong Kong for only US$25. For a poor modeller like me, this is definitely a good deal for a medium scale ship (hey how much is the 1:350 Shokaku??? I can get at least 8 Nich ships!!) , but I knew that this model kit was made in the 1970s.... long before I was born. However, the kit is still very attractive, the packaging is very advanced back in those days (even compared to modern standard). And the box art is also very attractive as well, it shows the last moment of Zuikaku fighting at Battle of Leyte Gulf. The mould is not good of cos but I like to detail and modify the model, that is how I learned to make models in a hard way when I first began ship modelling...cos I cannot afford the hobby, but this is where the skills came from, not from photo-etch products.

So the 'long' construction began, my reference is the Shokaku book by Gakken. It will be the Leyte Gulf version, that means full camouflage (Japanese green/black/yellow camouflage... love it..!).

The following shows how to build the elec. outboard line. Cutting thin strip of plastic, bend it to the right shape by tweezers, and then cutting each one to precise length. I have to double check each one whether they are not too short or long otherwise it would look like a mess when they are placed on the hull. This process took me ages to complete, but very happy with the result after it is done. I actually use similar method in the 1/700 Zuikaku.

STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3

The AA-Gun platform's underside structures (flages) are all scatch-built by using "Yellow sub" plastic strip by Hobby Base (similar to Evergreen products but comes in grey colour, but much finer & thinner), drilled holes into each one. Each flages are custom made and none of them are equal in length. Again after it was completed I am very happy with the result. The good thing to made them yourself is that you can control the distance of the holes and length of each flage to match the unequal radius in each of the platform's edges, but photo-etch cannot give exactly what I wanted. STEP 1 STEP 2

Between each flanges are the cross bracing, it was made by using 1mm wide "Yellow sub" plastic strip by Hobby Base. Each are measured & cut to fit between the flages so none of them are eqaul in lenght. Also need to drill holes in each of them. Result is better than photo-etch.

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STEP 3 STEP 4 STEP 5

Very impressive!

Looking underside of the AA gun platform. It looks more realistic with the individually made haunches, something that photo-etch cannot achieve The details of the bow, took a while to do....

Another photo of the bow, the panel lines are very thin plastic strips cut out from evergreen plastic card, Underside of the platform, see these flages, much easier to do compared to the AA-gun platform, cos they are mostly in the same lengths.

Well that's definitely turning 'a sow's ear into a silk purse'. Very nice job so-far.

Worth the work! When the hull is painted, it gonna be a true enrichment.
Very good job at the splinter shields and the supports!
Its a different level of modeling, imho, because its OOB and scratchbuilt. Those kind of tasks seperates the wheat from the caff.
So i�ll go back to my caff pile...
I don�t feel my self to be able to render these supports as you did. I am reliant on photo etch parts on these areas.
Unfortunately...

Excellent work, well executed and crisp. Yes, old school approach, which I may abandon going forward.

Dan K wrote:Excellent work, well executed and crisp. Yes, old school approach, which I may abandon going forward.

Old school style indeed the right way to finish an old school kit!!! awesome job so far

Jose

The deck's edge - anti-wave barrier.. (not too sure what is the technical name), is made by cutting smaller strips out of a thicker plastic strip, glue them one by one on the edge. Then covered them with a thinner strip overall to form the edges. I have to double-check each one to make sure they are flushed with the top of the deck, otherwise the edge will look uneven. Again took me a while to do, but happy with the result.

STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3

Drilled out the anchor points on the whole deck.. take ages... and broke at least 2 drills through the process, very annoying.. Bow details - flooring lines again created by cutting thin strips from plastic card. Hull Details

Your plasticard card supplier is no-doubt thrilled with build as well.

Kym Knight wrote:Your plasticard card supplier is no-doubt thrilled with build as well.

$7. 50 holy mackerel and i thought $2.49 was a stiff price

Great job so far AC


Jose

As I posted before, truly excellent work, AC

However, one correction is in order. Those are not wave breaks along the side of the flight deck, they are rain gutters. 1st pic shows them to good effect, 2nd pic shows runoff pipes at bow

The photos are excellent, so that I can able to fit the downpipes under the deck as well. Thanks

Photos of how I made the Aircraft-propeller wind barrier (-again what is the technical name???). Cut the opening on the deck, and built the tray first.

Use PE peforated board to assemble the underdeck strucuture on a piece of A4 paper, then just simply put it inside the tray. Much easier compared to assemble it within the tray.

STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3

This is going to be an awesome build. One I'll keep an eye on for sure.

Just kind of finished the forward part of the port side... all the flanges are scratched built individually because of various width of the platforms. I did not realise it will take me 2 weeks just to do all the strucuture underside of platform, but the result looks good. Just borrowed an extra drill from my friend so that now I got two drills, that means I got an option to drill smaller holes in the narrow part of the flage, without changing drills all the time, of cos the process will be much faster!
Built support under the catwalk by copper wires.

Amazin. Are those metal triangular supports?