'real' wooden deck planking 1/350

[largeallan]

I saw a thread somewhere that showed the technique for putting wooden decks on a 1/350 bismarck.....I can't find it again, does anyone know where it can be found...................or a link to something similar?

thanks cats....Allan

[MartinJQuinn]

Dan VonGartzen had posted this on the ModelFleet site:

Applying wood deck planking Planking 1/350 wooden decks is fairly easy and straight forward. The materials are basic. I use the following; basswood strips in HO scale 1x3's in 22" lengths (purchased in bundles from Northeastern Scale Lumber). I use Duro's white tube superglue for securing applied with a thin wire.

First, determine which small deck "gack" bits need to be removed, generally I remove all round small bits, square parts are not a problem because the planks can fit squarely around them. To remove these bits, I use a exacto chisel blade which cleanly cuts them off leaving little to no clean-up. After removing the parts (good idea to make a parts map or diogram of their locations to reattach later), using a sanding stick, clean off the raised plank lines. It doesn't have to be really smooth, some bite works best for gluing.

Next, mark a center line down the length of the deck section you are working. Again, for 1/350 scale, I use HO scale 1 x 3's cut to a length of 1cm. This is slightly over-scale, but when sanded, stained and weathered, the deck looks very realistic and the scaling is not noticed. From the center line, place your first plank on either side of it and make sure it is running square to the line. Cut the next plank just alittle short and secure it on the other side of the line square to the first plank.

Now continue placing planks butting them together and running the length and width of the deck section. When you come to gun shields, tubs, waterbreaks and superstructure, cut the end that is to butt up against it to shape, place there and cut the other end to match up with the last plank in that line. Presto, the planks form fit to everything. Most important: TAKE YOUR TIME. This technique takes awhile to do, but will definitely add museum quality to your models. It may seem to be going so slow at times, but before you know it, your done with a whole section of deck. The more planks you apply, the faster and more proficent you will get.

A time saver is to take 4 or more full lengths of basswood strip with a metal ruler and cut the planks 1cm. In a 22" strip you get about 55 planks. I ordered 150 lengths and I am still using the first 50 bundle. By the way, this technique can be used on 1/700 scale also. Just drop down to HO scae 1 x 2's and shorten the plank length.

You can now find Dan over at BattleFleet message board.

[largeallan]

Thanks for that Martin

[Guest]

I saw a thread somewhere that showed the technique for putting wooden decks on a 1/350 bismarck.....I can't find it again, does anyone know where it can be found...................or a link to something similar?

thanks cats....Allan

Allan, the Bismarck you are referring to was built by Ed Keegan. It's in the Battleships gallery on this site. It sure is a beauty ! Ed used basically the same technique as Dan did. Ed suggested another company as well, Kapler Mill & Lumber Company. Here's the link: http://www.kapplerusa.com/y2k/p-ho-24b.htm I got the 1X3 size as I plan on doing a wooden deck as well some day. The wood strips are clean and uniform. I tested it out by planking a small piece of square Evergreen plastic and it looked great !

Good luck !

Ted[/url]

[Hank45]

Dan VonGartzen had posted this on the ModelFleet site:

Applying wood deck planking Planking 1/350 wooden decks is fairly easy and straight forward. The materials are basic. I use the following; basswood strips in HO scale 1x3's in 22" lengths (purchased in bundles from Northeastern Scale Lumber). I use Duro's white tube superglue for securing applied with a thin wire.

First, determine which small deck "gack" bits need to be removed, generally I remove all round small bits, square parts are not a problem because the planks can fit squarely around them. To remove these bits, I use a exacto chisel blade which cleanly cuts them off leaving little to no clean-up. After removing the parts (good idea to make a parts map or diogram of their locations to reattach later), using a sanding stick, clean off the raised plank lines. It doesn't have to be really smooth, some bite works best for gluing.

Next, mark a center line down the length of the deck section you are working. Again, for 1/350 scale, I use HO scale 1 x 3's cut to a length of 1cm. This is slightly over-scale, but when sanded, stained and weathered, the deck looks very realistic and the scaling is not noticed. From the center line, place your first plank on either side of it and make sure it is running square to the line. Cut the next plank just alittle short and secure it on the other side of the line square to the first plank.

Now continue placing planks butting them together and running the length and width of the deck section. When you come to gun shields, tubs, waterbreaks and superstructure, cut the end that is to butt up against it to shape, place there and cut the other end to match up with the last plank in that line. Presto, the planks form fit to everything. Most important: TAKE YOUR TIME. This technique takes awhile to do, but will definitely add museum quality to your models. It may seem to be going so slow at times, but before you know it, your done with a whole section of deck. The more planks you apply, the faster and more proficent you will get.

A time saver is to take 4 or more full lengths of basswood strip with a metal ruler and cut the planks 1cm. In a 22" strip you get about 55 planks. I ordered 150 lengths and I am still using the first 50 bundle. By the way, this technique can be used on 1/700 scale also. Just drop down to HO scae 1 x 2's and shorten the plank length.

You can now find Dan over at BattleFleet message board.

[Hank45]

Dan: do you attach the wood planks to the existing plastic deck ? Thanks for your answer, Hank45

[MartinJQuinn]

Dan: do you attach the wood planks to the existing plastic deck ? Thanks for your answer, Hank45

I'm not Dan, but since I've been trying to plank a Bismarck (here), I'll answer you.

Yes, you do. Sand down the plastic deck to smooth it out first, then glue the planks down with CA glue.

[Charlestonguy]

I saw a thread somewhere that showed the technique for putting wooden decks on a 1/350 bismarck.....I can't find it again, does anyone know where it can be found...................or a link to something similar?

thanks cats....Allan

Allan, the Bismarck you are referring to was built by Ed Keegan. It's in the Battleships gallery on this site. It sure is a beauty ! Ed used basically the same technique as Dan did. Ed suggested another company as well, Kapler Mill & Lumber Company. Here's the link: http://www.kapplerusa.com/y2k/p-ho-24b.htm I got the 1X3 size as I plan on doing a wooden deck as well some day. The wood strips are clean and uniform. I tested it out by planking a small piece of square Evergreen plastic and it looked great !

Good luck !

Ted[/url]

How thick is the planking? Could you please post a picture of what it looks like? I was thinking of using it on a sailing ship deck.

[Elvis965]

How thick is the planking?

It's about .010".

I'm planking the deck of a 1/350 Arizona (eventually), and I tested it against .010" & .020" styrene because I had to redo the scuppers on the boat deck & the anchor chain runs, and it worked best against .010".

Against .020", there was a notieable lip above the wood.

Bob

[degrelle]

Or try this...http://www.hlj.com/product/KALMD35003

[Charlestonguy]

How thick is the planking?

It's about .010".

I'm planking the deck of a 1/350 Arizona (eventually), and I tested it against .010" & .020" styrene because I had to redo the scuppers on the boat deck & the anchor chain runs, and it worked best against .010".

Against .020", there was a notieable lip above the wood.

Bob

Thanks, that looks like it just might work for my Heller kit. Did that come in a scribed sheet? I looked on the website and it was hard to tell if they were planks or sheets.

[Elvis965]

Did that come in a scribed sheet?

Nope....it comes in long, thin strips, either 11" or 22", and we get the fun of chopping them up into little pieces. 1cm pieces are about what's right for 1/350 planks, but I'm doing 2cm just because I'd like to get done sometime this century!!!!!

Check out Martin's Bismarck:

viewtopic.php?f=59&t=24466&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

When I get home I'll try and snap a pic of one of the strips for you.

Bob

[Charlestonguy]

Did that come in a scribed sheet?

Nope....it comes in long, thin strips, either 11" or 22", and we get the fun of chopping them up into little pieces. 1cm pieces are about what's right for 1/350 planks, but I'm doing 2cm just because I'd like to get done sometime this century!!!!!

Check out Martin's Bismarck:

viewtopic.php?f=59&t=24466&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

When I get home I'll try and snap a pic of one of the strips for you.

Bob

Oh my.....well I think it will be worth the effort anyway. Yes I would love to see how it looks in progress. Did you buy from Northeastern Scale Lumber?
Thanks Bob

Arthur

[Elvis965]

Hi Arthur,

Here are a couple pics of the lumber. Yes, I did get it from Northeastern.

These are HO scale 1x3's in the 22" length.

The plastic strip I have in the pics is a .010" x .060" styrene strip.

Bob

[Charlestonguy]

Hi Arthur,

Here are a couple pics of the lumber. Yes, I did get it from Northeastern.

These are HO scale 1x3's in the 22" length.

The plastic strip I have in the pics is a .010" x .060" styrene strip.

Bob

I just placed my order tonight, thanks for the pictures!

Arthur

[Hank45]

I received an e-mail from Hugh Lottie at hugh1lottie2@earthlink.net about a site for wood decks located at natutilus hobbies.com interesting site have a looksee. Hank45

[Charlestonguy]

Looks like a quick way to lay down more deck faster.
http://nautilusmodels.com/99-500.htm

Thanks

[Elvis965]

The only problem with the Nautilus decks is they are laser cut onto a single sheet of basswood, so you have the grain of that sheet of basswood in the decking.

It needs to be sealed before you paint or stain it.

It can be gorgeous when done right:

Richard Sliwka's Bogue
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

Ron Smith's Langley
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

But if you do it wrong, you end up with a laser scribed deck that also shows the grain of the piece of basswood they used for it.

Peter Van Buren bought one for his Saratoga and ended up throwing it away (but he still built a heck of a Sara)
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

I have one for an Essex SCB-27A conversion that I haven't started, mostly because the deck gives me the creeps whenever I look at it!

Bob

[Charlestonguy]

Thanks Elvis965 you gave some great examples especially the remarks by Peter on his build.
I'm going to try the plank method first and see how that goes. What kind of sealer would be best?

[Elvis965]

Richard used Floquil wood sealer for his, Ron used a couple light coats of shellac on his.

I've only planked a small test piece for my Arizona to determine if I wanted to use 1cm or 2cm pieces. 2cm quickly won out! But that's on hold for the moment since I'm working on a Kitty Hawk for someone else.

I don't think I'm going to do anything to my Arizona deck, though. I think the untreated wood has a nice bleached teak look to it already.

Last time I asked Martin, he was still on the fence about what he was going to do with Bismarck.

Bob