The Ship Model Forum

Hi,
I've been looking through all the completed builds and have seen a variety of techniques for building hulls. My ultimate goal is to build the USS Missouri. However, I know my limitations and starting such an ambitious project without experience is doomed to failure. My plan is to start on simpler projects as practice. I have started building a 1:28 scale Elco PT boat. I have the bulkheads cut and secured to a board using a method I have seen Govert use- no center keel, the bulkheads are attached directly to a board. The goal of this build is not to produce a finished ship, but rather to experiment with hull building techniques, my weakness when it comes to model building. I have experience building smaller parts and pieces from working on other model types. I need the experience building hulls. I have been cutting bulkheads and have my scroll saw technique practiced enough at this point to make decent, not great, bulkheads. My problem is what to do next.

So, my issue is finding a method that works for me. I have tried plank of frame. For the PT boat hull this is rather tricky. The hull lines are fairly sharp in places which is proving very difficult to plank. The stern was easy to plank, but I am having a very difficult time with the bow. I have also tried a method I saw in one of ARH's builds- using plaster with Styrofoam filling the gaps between the bulkheads. Ultimately, I want to cast the hull in fiberglass resin for an RC build. This didn't work out well for me, the main issue I had was that the glue holding the Styrofoam never set. It was Styrofoam glue, but the inserts would start to move when I applied the plaster. I also had an issue with the plaster not curing properly. I have a new brand of plaster to test, but haven't gotten to it yet.

Ultimately, I think the Elco boat was a poor choice for a test platform for me. I think I need to practice on a hull that is more rounded. I also think I need to practice using a different method of attaching the bulkheads together using either a keel or a center spine.

Does anyone have any advice on a) methods that are good for novice builders. And b) a good hull for novice builders. I was thinking maybe an LST? I dunno. I have pictures of the PT boat hull but can't post them while at work.
Thank you for any advice.

There are no short cuts to building A GOOD glass fibre hull. The more time you spend on the plug and the mould, the less time you spend filling and sanding the finished hull. Its just a trade off.
Go to www.ayrmodelboatclub.org which is my model boat club. Then click on the features tab. Scroll down till you get to the build feature on the Baltimore brigantine "Maryland". This is one of my models and the pictures might help you see how I built my plug and mould. I used a silicon lined GRP mould but that was only because I needed to mould in a lot of detail. With a more simple hull exterior you can skip this bit and just make a standard hard GRP mould.
There is a big plus in doing everything in two halves (believe it or not) as it keep everything smaller and more rigid.
Hope this helps a bit.
Good luck.

Picketboat

I imagine the Italian MAS boats had quite a similar hull form. Secondo has built a 1/20 scale model using the wooden hull plug + fibreglass technique, so he should be able to help you: viewtopic.php?f=60&t=36291

Thank you both for the replies. I will check them out.

Maybe you can use some tape to keep parts in place.
I know that tape won't fix permanently (or at least isn't meant as only thing to keep 2 things together), but if glue isn't working it might help just that bit.

Working with fibreglass really isn't easy, I found that out the hard way myself too.
Fortunately I was doing a study with lessons on how to work with polyester and fibreglass and more resins, so it didn't take long before I learned how it should be done.
As I wasn't patient enough at that time, I already had ruined a hull, which even today is as smooth as the Himalaya
Applying the fibreglass properly is really important for the finish.
Apply it the wrong way and you'll end up with the Himalaya, but when applied the right way you'll hardly need to do any filling or sanding.

Greetings Josse