The Ship Model Forum

Hi Guys

It's PICKETBOAT here in Scotland picking up on Sandy's comments.

It might help that I'm a furniture maker by trade so designing and making the transportation and storage boxes for my models was straight forward. It's important not to over construct them or else it will take three people to lift it even before you put in the model!
I HAVE SEEN ONE MADE FROM A RECYCLED KITCHEN CUPBOARD! It took four chaps to lift it and it looked like ...well a kitchen cupboard!!
A box, even a light weight one, is quite a strong structure as long as it is well fastened together.

The base of my boxes are 20mm thick fir, Everthing else was 4mm ply. I built the boxes up wards from the more substantial base timber. Each panel simply overlapped at the edges and was glued (white PVA wood glue) and pinned with 25mm moulding pins (very fine panel pins). Some corner joints were then reinforced on the inside with 10mm square softwood glued in place. When all the glue was dry the outside corners and edges were dressed with a belt sander (nail heads too). The side was designed to drop in place at the bottom and lock with over centre luggage catches. Lifting handles were fitted on each end (top centre for smaller models).
Inside I fitted two permanent wooden cradles (lined with felt) for the model to sit in. A close fitting foam block inside protects the bow and stern, and the model it gently clamped between one on each beam, when the side panel is fitted in place.

The display stand for the model is also secured inside the box (fastened to the inside of the lift off side panel).

Metal corner protectors (designed for things like speaker and amplifier cabinets) can be added to stop the sharp corners sticking in you or your car upholstery. Four small rubber feet stop the box sliding around and luggage straps can be looped through the carrying handles to lash the box down while in transit.

I been all over the UK and (so far no damage in transit).

I usually finish the boxes off with a couple of coats of paint (blue looks good inside I don't know why) applies with a small brush and foam roller.

I attach a picture or two.

I am not at home to make a photo but did make a box for Missouri and Alaska ans actually shipped them without damage via the airlines. I used plywood and fir boards. The one side screws on with drywall screws. The two most important things were to make it easy to lift and carry, so the top board overhangs the ends by 3-4 inches to provide a secure handle and make it obvious which way is up. The most important thing is to provide shock resistance and keep the ship from becoming loose in the box. For this I used Foam insulation board cut to shape. Some removable items such as turrets are carefully wrapped and put inside the hull.

Always a worry!

T

Hi Neptune,

The guys here in the Scottish Model Warship Association make separate boxes for all the models they take to shows.

The 'boxes' are made from MDF and only extend to cover the hull sides.

They occasionally use bits of foam at the bows to protect them from the odd emergency stop

Some other, among them Steve (PICKETBOAT) have quite elaborate suitcase like cases which have a benefit of, when the side is off, being a covered display case.

All the best
Sandy

See my Road Cases thread at RC Groups:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1785839

Hello all,

I was wondering how you guys transport your, often large, RC or static museum models? Do you make a seperate box for each model or do you try to standardise and use the box for different models, adapting the inside?

Do you put the model on a stand inside the box or is it "fixed" in place by being pressed/ stuffed in the box with some soft material?
And how do you make a light box for a rather heavy model in order to be able to still lift it?

Do you make sides that can open or do you have a different easy method to take the ship in or out of the box?

I'm planning on making my own box for Chaconia, but with the next ship in mind, so I'm looking around for ideas and habits.